TE630: should this cooling water be here?

[Rotax_655]

but does any of you see problems with the level of cold running mototrank? not me!

 

[Caboose]

Yep, better get that sorted it has been faulty from the beginning. Overheating can result in some real expensive repairs.

The TE630 has a coolant capacity of 1.2liters

From 25C to 105C, the coolant with a CTE of 702e-6 per degree Celsius will expand by 5.6% or 67ml

Aluminum (radiators + engine) has a CTE of 69.3e-6. That means the cooling system will expand by 0.55% or 6.7ml

So the total coolant expansion will be approximately 60ml, or 4 tablespoons.

What is a bit more difficult to calculate is how much all the rubber hoses expand once the system is under pressure, so in reality it is probably quite a bit less than 4 tablespoons.

My guess is that you are wrong and the level of coolant needed if filled as per the drawing will need more than 4 tablespoons to lift the coolant beyond the cap pressure seal. I am too lazy to go measure it though, but initially only, if you did exactly what that drawing calls for, steam is doing the job the first time. After that when the system has stabilized as per the more than one photo posted in this thread, the expansion of the liquid will do the job.

In your case, there is a problem somewhere and steam is doing the job every time due to the low level of coolant. At some point that will cause enough coolant loss to result in overheating the motor. Have your cooling system serviced properly. That means pressurizing the system with the proper tool (pump and gauge) to see if there is a pressure loss due to a leak. Use the proper tool to test the cap release pressure to see if the cap is in specification or the cap seal is leaking. Check the line that runs to the overflow bottle for a leak.

BTW your third and fourth paragraphs totally contradict each other unless vacuum sucks air from the reservoir. If that is the case, there is no liquid in the reservoir, or vacuum sucks air through a leaking connection line. My advice is to not wrench on your own bike. In your case, rather rely on someone who knows what he is doing at the dealership.

As I said: There is no steam in the coolant system at all times. I dont know where did you get that. You are talking nonsense.
My cooling system is faultless, it does bot leak, does not overheat. Period. It does not need any maintence. The level of coolant never moved a milimeter since the last 3 years.

 

[jellyrug]

As I said: There is no steam in the coolant system at all times. I dont know where did you get that. You are talking nonsense.
My cooling system is faultless, it does bot leak, does not overheat. Period. It does not need any maintence. The level of coolant never moved a milimeter since the last 3 years.

Must be the only guy I have ever heard of who measures his closed system cooling level with a caliper within a millimeter.

Send us a pic next time you do that.

 

[Caboose]

How stupid you have to be to take that part of the sentence literally? I know the answer: american dumb.

 

[Teambowles]

An argument over coolant levels...really. Don't own one of these bikes but coolant level looks fine to me. The bike will find its happy place with the coolant level and if that's its happy place don't worry about it. If your not having any issues with it then just ride it. All bikes will have different levels where the coolant will settle. Most settle around the top of the cooling fins (some below and some above) Imo I wouldn't worry about it unless its starts spitting coolant out or if you check it and its so low you cant see any. Again looks fine to me.....

 

[motranqui]

Let's have peace, mates. Of course, Cabosee, I have no taken millimeter literally

I agree with Caboose: my TE310 always has had the coolant level a few mm above cells level and never has had an issue (7 years, 14.000 km, a lot of rough terrain, even MX, rocks...)

IMO, as long as the coolant is above cells when the bike is cold, nothing wrong can happens...

That's not mean that if the coolant level is like the pic I show I'm going to have a problem, I agree also with Teambowels.

May be this thread is a "split hairs" kind of thread ....

 

[motranqui]

but does any of you see problems with the level of cold running mototrank? not me!

Hi Rotax

May be there is not a problem with the coolant level in my bike. But then, Why the hell Italian engineers make a "check level" drawing like the one above?

Please, as you're italian, may be you can make them a phone call in order to clarify it

 

[jellyrug]

How stupid you have to be to take that part of the sentence literally? I know the answer: american dumb.

Don't mind being called stupid, at least some of us have a sense of humor.

 

[jellyrug]

Hi Rotax

May be there is not a problem with the coolant level in my bike. But then, Why the hell Italian engineers make a "check level" drawing like the one above?

Please, as you're italian, may be you can make them a phone call in order to clarify it

In the automotive industry we hire technical writers for their language skills not technical knowledge and like many I suspect Husky farmed that out to be done by someone else. That drawing is not meant for a closed system with an overflow vessel, but rather the older systems employed where weight savings were more important and the coolant pressure release goes to atmosphere via a hose connected to the radiator above the cap release.

As someone else posted this is really a non issue. In a closed system where there is an overflow container it will always sort itself out. Unless the coolant was drained, coolant is always added to the overflow bottle, not the radiator. In the event that the coolant was replaced and filled through the radiator, if it was under filled it will eventually correct itself through taking coolant in from the overflow vessel. In a closed system you cannot over fill the radiator as any excess expansion of the coolant will simply go back to the overflow vessel. If you add too much coolant to the overflow vessel, it will be pushed out the cap a couple of times when at operating temperature and again sort itself out.

Any functional cooling system which is closed, your cars, your bikes, once cooled down will be as in the pictures posted in this thread if you open the cap.

In short, don't worry, be happy.

 

[Rotax_655]

Ampelio Macchio now works in swm. She sees her shoulders as she arrives in the engine test room with blue t-shirt

View: https://youtu.be/2pgyre9mmjw


I often read that you criticize the 630 Italian design engineers.
sometimes you are right sometimes not.
in this case there is nothing to criticize. I'm sure the photo you messp was taken after filling the cold engine radiator.
in fact, just start up the engine and turn it up to the maximum temperature to make sure that the level inside the radiators is empty.
as already said, then the only thing to do and fill up to the brim every vplta that opens the cap to trigger the vessel system communicating with the expansion vessel.
for the rest unfortunately I do not have Ampelio Macchi's phone to call him but I'm sure you would make great laughs for these discussions ....... a bit useless :-)



without rancory
Hello

 

[Rotax_655]

In the automotive industry we hire technical writers for their language skills not technical knowledge and like many I suspect Husky farmed that out to be done by someone else. That drawing is not meant for a closed system with an overflow vessel, but rather the older systems employed where weight savings were more important and the coolant pressure release goes to atmosphere via a hose connected to the radiator above the cap release.

As someone else posted this is really a non issue. In a closed system where there is an overflow container it will always sort itself out. Unless the coolant was drained, coolant is always added to the overflow bottle, not the radiator. In the event that the coolant was replaced and filled through the radiator, if it was under filled it will eventually correct itself through taking coolant in from the overflow vessel. In a closed system you cannot over fill the radiator as any excess expansion of the coolant will simply go back to the overflow vessel. If you add too much coolant to the overflow vessel, it will be pushed out the cap a couple of times when at operating temperature and again sort itself out.

Any functional cooling system which is closed, your cars, your bikes, once cooled down will be as in the pictures posted in this thread if you open the cap.

In short, don't worry, be happy.

Sometimes it's more important to do a bit of practice at the workshop than to study 100 books.
this is a case

 

[ghte]

End of posts now good people????

 

[jellyrug]

Perhaps a last word of truth thrown in but with some humor for the fella who does not know what steam is. Water exposed to air always produces vapor, until the air is saturated with vapor. If we heat that water in the English dictionary the vapor is called steam. It's also that little white cloud we see at the gas station when a poor motorist opens something up on his overheated cooling system.

 

[motranqui]

Hi

I'm not in bad moods at all and I read every comment in a "open - minded" way. As we are all from different countrys and, like me, there are people whose native language is not English, some confusion in the use of language and sense of humor can happen. English native speaker mates... you have a lot of advantage in this forum

For instance, my comment to Rotax is in a 100% friendship way and humorous one. If I wouldn't trust Husky's bikes and their engineers... I wouldn't have two units

Finally, if jellyrug is right about what he said about liquid expansion depending of temperarure (for sure he is right) then the drawing above makes more sense than ever. When the coolant get, let's say, to the runnig temperarure of the bike , the coolant fill all the empy space that the radiator has at cold -due to his expansion due to temperature-.

For me that's an ideal situation. Only if temperature goes too much above what is supposed to be standar, a bit of coolant goes to the reservoy... and returns once the bike is cold again. As far as I know, the overflow vessel is an "auxilary" device, not a "every-single-minute necessary device".

On the other hand, If we have the radiator 100% full like in the pic, a few minutes from the moment we start the bike, the coolant -due to expansion due to temperature increase- has to go to the overflow vessel.... and again return when cold in a "never end and kind of a bit useless purpose". For me that makes not sense, so, I'm going to have the coolant level like in the drawing.

The drawing is taken for the "owners manual" and it's the same in the TE310 and TE630 ... and I trust it

I hope not, but in case I break the bike, you all could make a fool out of me: I will deserve it.

 

[Rotax_655]

Hi

I'm not in bad moods at all and I read every comment in a "open - minded" way. As we are all from different countrys and, like me, there are people whose native language is not English, some confusion in the use of language and sense of humor can happen. English native speaker mates... you have a lot of advantage in this forum

For instance, my comment to Rotax is in a 100% friendship way and humorous one. If I wouldn't trust Husky's bikes and their engineers... I wouldn't have two units

Finally, if jellyrug is right about what he said about liquid expansion depending of temperarure (for sure he is right) then the drawing above makes more sense than ever. When the coolant get, let's say, to the runnig temperarure of the bike , the coolant fill all the empy space that the radiator has at cold -due to his expansion due to temperature-.

For me that's an ideal situation. Only if temperature goes too much above what is supposed to be standar, a bit of coolant goes to the reservoy... and returns once the bike is cold again. As far as I know, the overflow vessel is an "auxilary" device, not a "every-single-minute necessary device".

On the other hand, If we have the radiator 100% full like in the pic, a few minutes from the moment we start the bike, the coolant -due to expansion due to temperature increase- has to go to the overflow vessel.... and again return when cold in a "never end and kind of a bit useless purpose". For me that makes not sense, so, I'm going to have the coolant level like in the drawing.

The drawing is taken for the "owners manual" and it's the same in the TE310 and TE630 ... and I trust it

I hope not, but in case I break the bike, you all could make a fool out of me: I will deserve it.

Certainly the linguistic expressions of the various countries could create misunderstandings.
Mototranqui
Have you news around the your clutch problem?

 

[motranqui]

Certainly the linguistic expressions of the various countries could create misunderstandings.
Mototranqui
Have you news around the your clutch problem?

No news about clutch problem... I will check it next time I change the oil unless the problem goes worse.

 

[motranqui]

An update

Yesterday I riden 320 km with bike. Today I looked at how coolant level is in the radiator after I left it as the manual says.

In my opinion, perfect:



As predictable, the bike has not broken...

 

[Rotax_655]

An update

Yesterday I riden 320 km with bike. Today I looked at how coolant level is in the radiator after I left it as the manual says.

In my opinion, perfect:
View attachment 83050


As predictable, the bike has not broken...

do not use an antifreeze?
your liquid is very clean and transparent.
it looks like just distilled water .....

 

[motranqui]

Yes, I use an antifreeze and the color is green