TE630 engine removal and rebuild

[Philmeup]

Thanks Theo, I'll get a micrometer on it to make sure of the size.
As for anyone else doing a full rebuild all I can say is take lots of photos before and after. And triple check everything.
If you can get a mate to check over your work especially critical stuff like lock washers and seals even better.

Bushwa, I didn't want to freak you out. Dig into your memory of doing up your lock washers. There is 4 that I can think of, the one on the right side of the crank, on the clutch nut and either side of the Balance shaft. I got distracted with these ones because when I torqued them up I couldn't spin it. It would only move freely when done up finger tight. Also those lock washer were difficult to bend over.
The manual neglects to talk about the lock washer and torque setting of the right hand crank nut.


It does show a picture of it though
I had been using a system of blue tape stuck to things I was unsure about or hadn't finished yet. For the most it worked, but as I discovered it only takes once to overlook something crucial and all your hard work is undone in an instant.
If not too much trouble to take your clutch cover off to check Bushwa, and the gaskets are very good and you can reuse at least once. The magneto cover is a pain in the ass though. Two piece requiring the fly wheel to be removed to get both off.
Good luck Bushwa. I have faith you did it up. You were a lot more thorough than I was. Cheers PHIL

 

[bushwa]

I remember doing some lock washers. Going to pull the clutch side cover tonight just to verify. Funny you mention that it wouldn't spin freely when torqueing up the balance shaft. Mine did the same thing first time I did it up. Odd.

 

[Philmeup]

Maybe it needs a shim. It didn't have one and the manual doesn't say either but 5.2 ft/lb isn't much. Just a nip past finger tight.

 

[bushwa]

Ones on my clutch side are locked. Took time to measure up the screen on that side too. A while back I had mentioned pricing a sturdier replacement.

 

[Philmeup]

That's good news. A little extra stuffing around but well worth the inspection and cheap insurance. Now zip it back up and go for a gentle test ride around the block. We're all excited to see how it goes.

 

[bushwa]

Test ride done, the SO suggested I take little ride for Vday. :-) Feels good, sounds good, rod knock sound is gone. No apparent leaks (except for a fork seal). Leaned out settings in the JD tuner too, feels good with no surge and no stumble on the on/off throttle transitions. Even wired my heated grips into the little driving light so they're now switched. Happy.

 

[mekanik]

Congrats on the rebuild! More than a little envious that you even got out for a test ride. Must feel good getting it done.

 

[XLEnduroMan]

The freewheel on the back side of the flywheel, how have these looked to those have done the work? Has anyone replaced them?

I ask because I have heard they can fail and cause engine noise. Anyway...I have a OEM Husky flywheel puller on the way to inspect mine. Just trying/hoping to get off easy and not do the full monty.

 

[Flynn]

Very good thread and work bud. I have always thought a motorcycle engine would be easy and cheap to rebuild but after doing my cam chain job I am not so sure. I must have spent about £250 (roughly $340) on the parts when you factor in special tools, gaskets, sealants, things that break along the way, etc.

I can't help but think rebuilding the whole engine would be that x10. I know you get a recon'ed engine for the price but I would be tempted just to buy a low mileage second hand engine and swap it out with that. A lot less work, but I get that you won't know it's history.

Anyway, great work and thread, very interesting and insightful, thanks

 

[bushwa]

I inspected mine without disassembling. It turned smooth and tight with no slop so I didn't go any further.

 

[Homerb]

Mines actually pretty noisy. Got to pull the sidecover one day and check it out.

 

[mg94]

Great job bushwa!

 

[Flynn]

When I had mine out and torn down I didn't fully fire it up until I was 100% certain that I had good oil circulation (you know- when you put the right side engine cover back on you want to be 100% certain you've aligned the tab of the oil pump w/ the key slot it fits into, in the engine.) So anyway I loosened the upper banjo bolt of the line that supplies the head/cams, then put it in high gear,and then hand turned the wheel many times until I saw oil coming out of that upper connection.

And don't forget- prior to a real start up- to hook it up to iBeat and re-set the TPS. I don't know how crucial that really is, but I wanted to go by the book (and probably wouldn't have cared much about doing so, but I'd given the TB a good cleaning when I had it off so thought it best to go ahead and do so.)

Hmm, just gotta query this.

I tried cranking my 610 on the starter in ten second bursts to see if the oil would pump but it didn't. Since then I left the banjo bolt loose with the engine running just to make sure and it was definitely pumping oil with the motor running but not when cranking on the starter. I just figured that it doesn't turn quickly enough on the starter to build up pressure, but if you are turning it quickly enough for oil to pump by hand then...

 

[bushwa]

It's a positive displacement type pump, although tiny. I was able to turn the rear wheel with the engine in 6th gear (plug removed so it was easier) and observed oil flowing from the loose banjo at the top of the oil line. It did take a few minutes of turning. Mine had a fresh oil pump installed.

 

[Moto7man]

Cool. Good to know that's normal.
Got a little further in today. Cams out. Top end looks pretty good. Cam bearings roll smooth and no play in them I can feel. Little slop between the gears on the cam and the drive gear, but I have a new drive gear to drop in anyway as part of the cam chain service.
Flywheel off. Air tools and the motion pro puller did the trick. Nothing out of the ordinary with the flywheel that I could see. Couldn't feel any play in the end of the crank either. Didn't put a dial indicator on it but may set one up when I get the cylinder off and can get a good pull on the rod.


Also got the water pump out, it and it's bearing look and feel good.
Now here's where I'm stuck. The 2 13mm nuts under the head. The are fn tight! Can't get a good bite on them with open end 13mm wrench, and can't get a socket on them, and I have a headache so I gave up for the night.

You can put closed end of a 13mm on the nut, then put a 1/2 inch torque wrench into the open end of 13mm wrench,viola the nut will come right off and if you have the torque wrench at a perfect right angle to the 13 mm wrench, you don't need to adjust the torque values on reassembly.

 

[Guns N Husqys]

Hi mg94,
I've heard the same from another well respected engine builder from another MC forum I frequent. Roller bearing rods are prone to wear/failure, and he's done a ton from single cyl 2 strokes to 4 stroke quads, etc. I guess I expected more than 10,000 miles. More frequent oil changes will be in my future.

I do believe oil is the everything. I change mine every 800 miles (Lucas motorcycle oil 10w 50) with new oil filter and I clean the screen filter on the left side every time. The screen filter on the right side I check once a year because you have to take the clutch cover off. Even with that frequent oil change I still get a little tiny shiny small baby metal in the old oil, I guess that's normal because of all the gears that oil lubricates and the clutch which is a friction material. My 630 still runs like a champ and has 6000 miles on it. I do warm it up every time for a minute or two and go easy until it gts nice and warm and then.... Braaaaaaaaaaaaa Hope this helps even tho this thread is a while ago.