• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE630 engine removal and rebuild

Tried all the cheap tricks to get that bearing out without luck. Purchased a blind/pilot bearing puller complete with slide hammer and a little heat added, still no luck, it's fn stuck. Wife had surgery, so I've been 2 weeks tending to her and the kids, and I'm traveling this weekend, so I likely won't get back to it for a week or so. Going to try baking it, cooling the bearing, and the new tool together. If that doesn't work, I'm sending it off to my buddies to weld a 1/2" threaded rod in the middle and I'll pull it out that way.



try the hydraulic method, use grease
it's how you pull a blind item
 
Tried it but it's not a sealed bearing. The grease, dough, bread, wax, just extrudes between the balls.
 
Why on earth Husqvarna decided to close the hole that was there on the 610s (which was super handy to rotate the crank without having to remove the stator cover) andn put a bearing that is a bitch to remove/replace. As much as I think that the 630 was a worthy successor of the 610, some design choices leave me absolutely baffled.
keep us posted bushwa, I'm thrilled to see more of the process.
 

Merry Christmas to me. Finally got that bastard out. Busy week ahead, but then I'm off for 2. Should be plenty to get this last bit buttoned up and the engine back in
 
For others that have had the same problem. Light a candle and drip the wax into the outher ring first. A lot. Let it harden, then fill up the axle hole and hammer it down. I have seen this working many times.
 
Would anyone happen to have a good photo or description of where the stator wiring is supposed to be run? It's been so long since I took this out, I don't remember which way it went lol.
 
Someone asked about the engine weight. 94.4 lbs according to my bathroom scales. No fluids. No throttle body, as it sits in the photo above.
 
Someone asked about the engine weight. 94.4 lbs according to my bathroom scales. No fluids. No throttle body, as it sits in the photo above.


That makes sense to me. When I had mine out I recall it being right at about 90 lbs., but didn't want to quote that figure here as my bathroom scale is old and I don't trust it's accuracy.
 
Yea, she's not a lightweight, needed a second set of hands to get it safely back in the frame, but it's in! Now to hook everything back up and see if it fires. Didn't get as much done over the holidays as I had hoped, new Xbox One took up more of my free time than I care to admit.
 
This project should be coming to an end soon. Engine is in, cooling system is tight, electrical connected, all that remains is to install the airbox and put the tank back on. Reminder to self, don't forget to add coolant and oil. If all goes well, should be firing it up tonight. Wish me luck.
 
Eventually! Well, I also removed and disassembled the engine some years ago, although the mechanic disassembled and reassembled the bottom end; I just took care of the top. I took it easy and it took months to do the job: I spent just some hours in the garage every week and triple checked everything. It was Winter and I have an SM, so it was not a problem.
I liked the experience.
Good luck!
And don't forget oil and coolant! :D
 
No fire tonight :-( Exhaust gaskets the shop sold me are like an inch long and don't fit. Also need to pick up a replacement longer hose for the breather hose that goes from the valve cover to the air box. Somehow, mine shrunk an inch or more and don't reach anymore. Weird.
 
The breather hose should not be relevant to engine functioning. You can safely leave it puffing in the atmosphere if you just want to fire up the engine (it's actually better to redirect the tubes so the oil vapors dont get into the intake but that's off topic). Also, what do you mean by exhaust gaskets?
 
Looks like an error in the parts manual. Section 24 for the exhaust, item 10 and 30 have the same part number. I received item 30, need item 10. Dealer is looking into it, but they have the same parts manual with the same numbers. Don't figure it out soon, I'll just reuse the old ones. Anyone happen to know the actual number for item 10?
 
Bushwa, I wish you the best of luck getting the bike fired up and back on the road. :cheers:

I have been both sad and mad for a month or so now as my TE 630 with only 11,000 miles on it shit the bed and is making sounds like your did in your vid at the start of this thread. The stupid self destructing, tissue thin clutch cup washers make me so mad. :banghead: My money is that they were the cause in my case as I found debris during an oil change and replaced the heavily worn cup washers. I didn't find the debris during oil change after the Indy washer install. But it appears the damage was done.

The only up side to this is there is a local guy that I trust that can do the heavy lifting for me. I plan to take the motor down to it's center cases and have him split it and pull the old bearings and rebuild the crank, and have him reassemble the bottom end and button it up for me. I imagine he can even pull the cam bearings and press on new ones, all in alignment. Your tread is a big help. I can not forget about that pesky crank bearing behind the stator. I will need him to do that one to. The down side to this is that this isn't the only thing to hit the fan recently, so the rebuild may not get done for awhile. After that I may put it on the chopping block for a 701 or Africa Twin. This has left a really bad taste in my mouth.
 
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