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TE630 clutch, loses its smoothness and becomes abrupt in tough terrain...

motranqui

motranqui

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi

When I´m in first gear at "half clutch" on a tough terrain, there comes a time when the clutch loses its smoothness and stops working properly, acquiring an abrupt touch. That is, I´m on first gear, I accelerate a little, I release the clutch lever slowly but instead of leaving smoothly and progressively comes out giving a jerk, that is, the "smoothness of the half clutch" disappears.

The warmer the engine is and the more I use the clutch in this way, the worse.


What do you think the problem is?

the bike has 22.000 km

Thank you
 
motranqui said:
Hi

When I´m in first gear at "half clutch" on a tough terrain, there comes a time when the clutch loses its smoothness and stops working properly, acquiring an abrupt touch. That is, I´m on first gear, I accelerate a little, I release the clutch lever slowly but instead of leaving smoothly and progressively comes out giving a jerk, that is, the "smoothness of the half clutch" disappears.

The warmer the engine is and the more I use the clutch in this way, the worse.


What do you think the problem is?

the bike has 22.000 km

Thank you
Click to expand...

How hot is the engine getting? I have lost my clutch completely when the engine got very hot. The fluid boiled presumably because of the slave cylinders proximity to the engine.
 
Usually the oil in the crankcase, does it do it with fresh engine oil? Notches in the clutch basket will do it as well but will do it all the time regardless of engine temps....
 
I would start by checking the thickness of the disks. It seems like you have a problem there. Obviously when checking the discs looks around as things are.
cush
bronze bush
etc
 
mekanik said:
Usually the oil in the crankcase, does it do it with fresh engine oil? Notches in the clutch basket will do it as well but will do it all the time regardless of engine temps....
Click to expand...

The oil is quite new (only 1.800km) and it's the one recommended by Husqvarna (CAtrol power racing 10/50)
Notches in the clutch basket... which is the reason why / or the way the basket get notches? Any way, the worse the clutch works is when I demand it... first gear in tough terrain, So maybe (maybe) we can rule this out
 
Rotax_655 said:
I would start by checking the thickness of the disks. It seems like you have a problem there. Obviously when checking the discs looks around as things are.
cush
bronze bush
etc
Click to expand...

OK, I will do it when I take a look to the clutch


Do you mean that worn clutch discs can generate that "touch" of the clutch?
 
If the clutch works under normal conditions and only acts up under harsher conditions I would suggest it is a fluid issue. This could be from the engine oil breaking down under heat (shearing) or the clutch fluid is boiling off.
If you do a lot of off road work I would change the oil every 2-3000 Kms. First off I would bleed out the clutch mineral oil and replace it.
If after that the clutch remains difficult under load follow Rotax's advise and check your clutch basket for notches, and your clutch plates for wear and trueness. You have not mentioned how many K's your bike has done by the way.
 
Kia-ora said:
How hot is the engine getting? I have lost my clutch completely when the engine got very hot. The fluid boiled presumably because of the slave cylinders proximity to the engine.
Click to expand...

The engine get quite hot when this happen (makes sense, as the bike is almost stopped and the clutch is working) althoug I can not say the temperaure. But "the touch" of the handlebar lever is good even in this situation
 
ghte said:
If the clutch works under normal conditions and only acts up under harsher conditions I would suggest it is a fluid issue. This could be from the engine oil breaking down under heat (shearing) or the clutch fluid is boiling off.
If you do a lot of off road work I would change the oil every 2-3000 Kms. First off I would bleed out the clutch mineral oil and replace it.
If after that the clutch remains difficult under load follow Rotax's advise and check your clutch basket for notches, and your clutch plates for wear and trueness. You have not mentioned how many K's your bike has done by the way.
Click to expand...


The problem has not come from the last 1.800km, but, at least from the last 5.000 km. The oil has now just 1.800 km and it's a sintetic one (Castrol 10W50). Besides 95% of these km were done through easy off- road tracks: you know, the ones that even a car could go (you can check this kind of tracks looking here:


http://www.motostrail.com/vb2011/threads/35371-Crónica-de-siete-días-un-poco-quot-a-lo-loco-quot


I'm planing checking the whole clutch next time I change the oil (even the "famous" cup washers)



The bike has done 22.000 km so far.
 
BTW, Last time I changed the engine oil (two months ago) I did this video. I don't know if those movements / clearance give us some information abour the inner conditions of the clutch... :thinking:


What do you think?

 
Is your clutch oil dark grey. If so it is breaking down inside the master cylinder. This could be from wear and or some kind of corrosion wearing out the master cylinder bore. Without having the plates of your clutch out for a closer look your clutch body looks good, at least superficialy.
 
ghte said:
Is your clutch oil dark grey. If so it is breaking down inside the master cylinder. This could be from wear and or some kind of corrosion wearing out the master cylinder bore. Without having the plates of your clutch out for a closer look your clutch body looks good, at least superficialy.
Click to expand...

Ghte, by "clutch oil" do you mean the oil inside the master & slave cilinder of the "hidraulic clutch" or the oil 10W50 (1,8 liters) that are in the crankcase and sorround all the clutch plates?
Sorry, sure a misunderstanding issue with the laguage...
 
The oil in the master cylinder was dark brown. The master cylinder had a leak through the piston that I have repaired last week. So from one week ago the mineral oil “magura blood” is new. So the hydraulic oil was new when the clutch was not working properly.

Anyway I don’t understand what have to do the oil inside the master cylinder with the lack of the smoothness and the jerks in the clutch when I demand it in tough terrain...
 
motranqui said:
The oil in the master cylinder was dark brown. The master cylinder had a leak through the piston that I have repaired last week. So from one week ago the mineral oil “magura blood” is new. So the hydraulic oil was new when the clutch was not working properly.
.
Click to expand...

can you give me more information about this substitution than you did?
I also have a slight leak
 
Very easy. But first you have to check whether the leak comes from a fault in the piston (the piston doesn’t seal properly) or in the body of the master cilinder. The master cylinder of my TE310 has a little break in the body, so I’m afraid there was not a possible fix (in fact I changed the magura master cylinder for the Australian “one clutch finger” from “CLAKE”:
http://www.clake.com.au/

IMG_2411.thumb.JPG.584b8e0c397009efe8548698b9f25968.JPG


If there is a fault with the seal of the piston, you have to remove the piston inside de master cylinder and to change it for a new one. That’s all.
These are the parts that you have to buy. I think they are part of a "set" (Set to repair the master cylinder, I think it's called...)

SANY5482.JPG

I took apart the master cylinder from the handlebar so that I could work easily. So I took the opportunity to change the whole oil.

Later in the workshop manual you can see how to refill the circuit. Basilcally you put the oil from the slave cylinder all the way to the master cylinder using a syringe.
 
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