• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE630 blowing fuel pump fuse...

DYNOBOB

DYNOBOB

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Bear with me guys the details here may be hard to follow. I'm just back from a weekend trip with our local dual sport group. Bike ran fine on Sat until late in the day when I was riding and the bike just died. Pulled over and realized the fuel pump was not priming and the dash led I just installed was showing I had no power to the fuel pump. Checked the 20a fuse that is marked "FP" on the plastic cover, it was ok and the fuel pump relay was clicking. Trailered the bike back to the cabin and eventually found the 15a fuse marked "FDC" was blown. Replaced it and everything worked. It seemed weird to me that a fuse marked "FDC" being blown killed the fuel pump while the fuse marked "FP" was not blown, but hey I was going to get to ride the next day.

Started riding Sun morning and the "FDC" fuse blew again, put a new 15a in and it blew almost immediately. Now I was down to just a spare 30a in my tool kit so I took the 20a out of the "FP" position and used it in the "FDC" position and put my 30a in the "FP" position. I quit the ride and headed for the truck/trailer. Made it back and the bike is running right now but obviously I have to figure out what's going on. Bike has 2500 miles and has never blown a fuse until now.

Now looking at the service manual I've found a contradiction. Fuses marked 23 (FP) and 23B (FDC) in the manual appear to be mismarked (reversed) on the plastic cover. The manual says the pump circuit should have a 15a fuse and it did. That clears up the confusion as to why the plastic cover "FP" fuse wasn't blowing. You guys may want to put a piece of tape over the markings on your lid and correct that.

So I still don't know what's wrong with the bike. I pulled the battery and checked the wires going to the regulator and they're ok. On iBeat I can see 16 error codes marked "injector open circuit" code "2080" and the injector is on the fuse w/ the fuel pump so maybe that's related? I also checked the wire harness near the header pipes and it's ok. I'm going to tear into it more and call the dealer tomorrow. I welcome any thoughts...

I don't think it's related but I had a 5mph tip over on a steep hill about 3 miles before the fuse blew. The bike started right up after the tip over though. Also, I had just pulled onto pavement and was getting on it pretty good when the fuse blew the first time. On Sunday morning I was just cruising along.

You can see that even the drawing of the fuse cover in the manual is mismarked.

huskyfusepic.jpg
 
Well, the iBeat has already paid for itself...I found the problem within 10 min of pulling the tank.

Seeing that I had 16 stored codes for the fuel injector that's where I started looking. Sure enough the wire harness right at the injector connector was being pressed into the metal fuel rail by the weight of the main harness above it. One of the injector wires had rubbed thru and was shorting to the fuel rail. In fairness to Husky, the wires were part of the PC-V harness where it intercepts the injector signal. If you have an aftermarket tuner I'd check to make sure you don't have the same problem.


.
 
Another thing I noticed, according to the manual the regulator is supposed to have heat sink paste on the back but mine had none.


.
 
On AL framed bike it is also a good idea to add an extra heavy ground wire from the VR to the engine ground stud. The AL frame naturally oxides and then makes for a very poor ground. That is why they don't use AL wiring in houses any more (other that special cases). Cam.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top