TE610 outer clutch hub spring retainer fix

[Toddler]

For those thinking about delaying the checking of the spring retainers I just want to relay that I had metal spring retainer pieces all throughout my engine. Stuck to anything magnetic. Not good. If you have over 10K make sure you look at it and if any of the springs look thin. Take care of it asap. I wish I had.

I should be back to riding this lovely machine in a week or so. I can't wait!

 

[southy]

Okay, makes sense. Done here instead of in the rear hub.

Can anyone say why they do a flex clutch system instead of a rubber mounted drive hub on the rear wheel?
My guess is that this clutch mechanism is more effective at limiting shock to the gear case than a rubber drive hub.

XR600's have a spring damped clutch system that looks almost the same as the Husky one. The difference is I believe the XR clutch doesn't have the stupid cup washers. The springs are longer and retained by the metal plates. I was wondering if the cup washers could be removed on the husky and longer springs put in place?

 

[eric125]

so you took the rivet and the head of it that is flat is installed inside the basket...and you put that against a hard object... then used the air chissel and hit the gear side of the rivet to mushroom it?

 

[Gav]

There was someone that done a fix using button head allen bolts
Tapped a thread and screwed the plates together, looked easier if you don't have an air chisel.

 

[RDTCU]

There was someone that done a fix using button head allen bolts
Tapped a thread and screwed the plates together, looked easier if you don't have an air chisel.

That has horribly bad idea written all over it...

 

[1lunger]

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pulled-my-clutch-basket-spring-cup-pics.26791/

 

[630 driver]

I work on aircraft and use steel and stainless steel solid rivits every day on the turbine engines and parts of the airframe . We use air hammers and bucking bars. One of the differences we do is we do not heat rivets. They heat during the hammering process and too much heat changes the temper and integrity. Also we put the chisel or hammer head on the head of the rivet or counter sunk side. Use a bucking bar on the other side so you can control the mushrooming and make it even all around. I can take pictures and show proper bucked rivets or send files directly from repair manuals if anyone cares to try it the aircraft way. Also when removing the rivets we use a center punch and drill the rivet out saving any scratches or damage to the surrounding area. If you use a drill bit just smaller than the rivet you can use a punch and the rivet pops right out. Drill from the counter sunk side but punch from the mushroomed side unless you do not drill all the way through then you can punch from the counter sunk side pulling the rivet in two and knocking the other side off. Good luck to everyone!

 

[Grump]

I work on aircraft and use steel and stainless steel solid rivits every day on the turbine engines and parts of the airframe . We use air hammers and bucking bars. One of the differences we do is we do not heat rivets. They heat during the hammering process and too much heat changes the temper and integrity. Also we put the chisel or hammer head on the head of the rivet or counter sunk side. Use a bucking bar on the other side so you can control the mushrooming and make it even all around. I can take pictures and show proper bucked rivets or send files directly from repair manuals if anyone cares to try it the aircraft way. Also when removing the rivets we use a center punch and drill the rivet out saving any scratches or damage to the surrounding area. If you use a drill bit just smaller than the rivet you can use a punch and the rivet pops right out. Drill from the counter sunk side but punch from the mushroomed side unless you do not drill all the way through then you can punch from the counter sunk side pulling the rivet in two and knocking the other side off. Good luck to everyone!

Pics of properly bucked rivets please.
Thanks,
DB

 

[RDTCU]

I work on aircraft and use steel and stainless steel solid rivits every day on the turbine engines and parts of the airframe . We use air hammers and bucking bars. One of the differences we do is we do not heat rivets. They heat during the hammering process and too much heat changes the temper and integrity. Also we put the chisel or hammer head on the head of the rivet or counter sunk side. Use a bucking bar on the other side so you can control the mushrooming and make it even all around. I can take pictures and show proper bucked rivets or send files directly from repair manuals if anyone cares to try it the aircraft way. Also when removing the rivets we use a center punch and drill the rivet out saving any scratches or damage to the surrounding area. If you use a drill bit just smaller than the rivet you can use a punch and the rivet pops right out. Drill from the counter sunk side but punch from the mushroomed side unless you do not drill all the way through then you can punch from the counter sunk side pulling the rivet in two and knocking the other side off. Good luck to everyone!

I'm sure you have nicer air hammers/chisels than most of us

 

[630 driver]

I will try to get some good pictures tomorrow and I will even take some from.the repair Manuel

Pics of properly bucked rivets please.
Thanks,
DB

 

[Grump]

I will try to get some good pictures tomorrow and I will even take some from.the repair Manuel

Ok, Thanks.

 

[630 driver]

 

[630 driver]

 

[630 driver]

In the top pictures it is directly from my repair manual. As you should be able to see if you are not creating a double countersink (meaning the top and bottom sides or the head and shop head are both countersunk) than you just want an even head that is one and a half the rivet shank diameter when smashed down and half the rivet shank diameter for height. If you need further assistance feel free to message me. If you need to create a double countersink then you may have to shave the two sides to make them flush after hammering them. This is a real easy process and I use an air hammer from harbor freight. It cost me six bucks and has been running strong for over seven years. Good lUck.!

 

[Grump]

In the top pictures it is directly from my repair manual. As you should be able to see if you are not creating a double countersink (meaning the top and bottom sides or the head and shop head are both countersunk) than you just want an even head that is one and a half the rivet shank diameter when smashed down and half the rivet shank diameter for height. If you need further assistance feel free to message me. If you need to create a double countersink then you may have to shave the two sides to make them flush after hammering them. This is a real easy process and I use an air hammer from harbor freight. It cost me six bucks and has been running strong for over seven years. Good lUck.!

Thanks for the pics. I guess my more important question would be which size/shape bucking bar should I buy? These are pretty heavy steel rivets and I think from my past research I need a heavier duty rivet gun (but I may be wrong).

 

[630 driver]

I use smaller auto body dolly bars or smaller bucking bars because they fit in tighter spaces and as far as the air hammer I use a smaller air hammer because it fits in tighter spaces. I buck stainless steel and steel rivets and it works just fine. The bigger guns just hit more rapidly so you have to slow them down even further.

 

[630 driver]

I use smaller auto body dolly bars or smaller bucking bars because they fit in tighter spaces and as far as the air hammer I use a smaller air hammer because it fits in tighter spaces. I buck stainless steel and steel rivets and it works just fine. The bigger guns just hit more rapidly so you have to slow them down even further.

 

[Grump]

I use smaller auto body dolly bars or smaller bucking bars because they fit in tighter spaces and as far as the air hammer I use a smaller air hammer because it fits in tighter spaces. I buck stainless steel and steel rivets and it works just fine. The bigger guns just hit more rapidly so you have to slow them down even further.

Have you done you sms 630 already? What shape is the tool that goes into the rivet gun? Just flat or slightly concave? I guess I will start with extra rivets and practice on a test piece but it sure would be nice to see a video of the job involving the basket we have to better see the bucking bars. Also, I researched this once before and was told that the rivet gun tool actually hits the "head" side of the rivet as opposed to the end that actually gets formed. Is that true?
Thanks,

 

[Grump]

Have you done you sms 630 already? What shape is the tool that goes into the rivet gun? Just flat or slightly concave? I guess I will start with extra rivets and practice on a test piece but it sure would be nice to see a video of the job involving the basket we have to better see the bucking bars. Also, I researched this once before and was told that the rivet gun tool actually hits the "head" side of the rivet as opposed to the end that actually gets formed. Is that true?
Thanks,

Just a followup. That is the correct way that I researched in the past. Seems backwards but it is the correct way.

 

[Kenneth Webb]

Really good information here! Regardless, i am going to get a RAD (Woodys version) this summer while I am in Colorado. Red hubs front and rear for a little bling. Zach at Woodys showed me the difference between the stock RAD and theirs, and Woodys is much reinforced internally. The 630 is a keeper so I am treating it right