mlorenzini
Husqvarna
A Class
Anybody know if I can use the torque limiter from the 2008-2010 BMW G450X in my TE511? The BMW part is $60 cheaper. Also, would like to know what, if any, differences in these parts. Thanks!
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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TE511 Torque Limiter
- Thread starter mlorenzini
- Start date
Husqvarna
I think it's been done. If you don't get a reply here, you might ask Big Timmy.
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
It is the same part. Exactly. What is the price you were given? If you have the holding fixture or a 3 jaw chuck and the proper socket that grabs the smaller gear the only difference would be one from another in the release point with a Newton meter torque reading. You don't want to do that though. Each one is different. Last time I checked "Bike Bandit" had listings for both the "A" and "B" series TL's and they were about 10 or 15 bucks more for the later "B" series updated version. They are each marked or laser etched with the breakaway point. Probably be about 237 NM marked on the "B" unit. Plug it in and ride.
Bike Bandit listing below: As of right now.
Description BikeBandit
Part # Qty Retail
Price Our Price
4A:
IDLER
(Z=20/36) 2691676 $169.19 $153.81
4B:
Idler
(Z=20/36) 2720284 $188.35 $171.23
Bike Bandit listing below: As of right now.
Description BikeBandit
Part # Qty Retail
Price Our Price
4A:
IDLER
(Z=20/36) 2691676 $169.19 $153.81
4B:
Idler
(Z=20/36) 2720284 $188.35 $171.23
Thought so, but knew for sure you'd have the correct answer.
mlorenzini
Husqvarna
A Class
Those prices are still the same at BB. Damn. I already ordered it from the local BMW dealer for the same price as the "B" (though I have no idea if that's the one I ordered). Plus I have to pay about $12 in sales tax. Wish I would've gotten our message sooner. The BMW part number I ordered was 11277728517. Any idea if that's the B version?
mlorenzini
Husqvarna
A Class
This is where I got the part number I used and it's the first one of the three listed. The other two match the A and the B that you gave me. I don't understand why there's three part numbers. http://parts.bmwmotorcycles.com/p/BMW_2010_G450X/Idler-Z=2036/62909630/11277728517.html
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Sorry, I don't keep track of the BMW part numbers, Or cross reference them much anymore.
If I need more parts, I do the "Bike Bandit" Thing.
We have people over on the "BMW G450 Riders Forum and Registry" that do keep track of the cross reference Numbers though, from all over the planet, trust me.
I am the "Forum Moderator" of the "G450 sections, G450 Classifieds and Husky Talk", over there and we can find just about anything your engine would need. Including complete ready to go crate engines.
If I need more parts, I do the "Bike Bandit" Thing.
We have people over on the "BMW G450 Riders Forum and Registry" that do keep track of the cross reference Numbers though, from all over the planet, trust me.
I am the "Forum Moderator" of the "G450 sections, G450 Classifieds and Husky Talk", over there and we can find just about anything your engine would need. Including complete ready to go crate engines.
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I got it to pull up the first and the last numbers by changing the model years on that website between 2008, 2009 & 2010 but could not get the middle number to come up at all. Price was the same on both, They don't even know what they got?
If the etched marking number is under 230 NM its probably an older "A" unit, but just run it. Look, its a consumable wear item. Just like gloves, plastics, helmets and riding gear. It wears out quicker the harder you beat it, so don't worry about it. It's in there for a reason, so it protects and minimizes damage and doesn't break the transmission gears. It is what it is.
Check the bearing in the inner case too. Just replace it with a new one and remove the orange/red colored rubber seals to expose the rollers, so it will get more oil lubrication. The outer bearing comes already mounted on the TL so it's not needed to be purchased.
If the etched marking number is under 230 NM its probably an older "A" unit, but just run it. Look, its a consumable wear item. Just like gloves, plastics, helmets and riding gear. It wears out quicker the harder you beat it, so don't worry about it. It's in there for a reason, so it protects and minimizes damage and doesn't break the transmission gears. It is what it is.
Check the bearing in the inner case too. Just replace it with a new one and remove the orange/red colored rubber seals to expose the rollers, so it will get more oil lubrication. The outer bearing comes already mounted on the TL so it's not needed to be purchased.
mlorenzini
Husqvarna
A Class
Hmmm... I only ordered the TL. Remove seals? Really?
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
You can do it or not do it. I'm not going to force you to do anything. I'm only suggesting to check that bearing while you are in there and replace it while you are in there. Here's why I pick out the seal.
I have an early BMW inner case torque limiter bearing in the box that has no seals. It came that way. All the later Husky engines have the seals. When its in the case this happens to be the smallest diameter shaft bearing in there and it's sealed from getting additional lubrication, "stupid". Think about that bearing and it's small diameter, add in the engines RPM while its spinning in the engines cases and think about taking a single ball bearing out of the race of that bearing and rolling it across the floor and measuring how many feet per second it travels? Do you want to calculate that out how many miles per minute perhaps? With limited lubrication (sealed) or with unimpeded lubrication. Think about that !!
Here's a picture of my new early BMW inner TL bearing, It's slipped onto a new TL which is an "A" unit which is etched 227NM. This a new one, which is out of the package so you can see the other (outer) side that already has the bearing installed when you buy the TL. I have the bag somewhere and the box for the bearing. I've pictured it before on here on this same issue. That issue was? To remove or not to remove the seal. The size is. 35x17x10, BMW part number # 11277707171 I think they are all sealed now from Husky or BMW. Part/Item number #4 in the BMW drawing. From http://parts.bmwmotorcycles.com the sight you bought the TL from. Above.
They even show the bearing in the parts picture without a seal. Take a look. I have picked mine out deliberately when I have replaced the bearing and my Original BMW bearing had no seal in it either.
Getting my FAA A&P License many years ago and Building Turbine engines and APUs for aircraft. One of those requirements was taught to us to actually calculate the travel speed in feet per second of single rollers out of a caged roller bearing. First by measuring the diameter of the individual balls diameter in that bearing and with consideration of the inner race it was rolling around. The numbers were astounding.
For instance a Garrett Turbine TPE 331 series engine spins at 41,230 RPM at 100%. Think about it. That's like a few miles per second, on an individual ball in some of those bearings. Massive amounts of oil for lubrication is what allows that to happen.
I have an early BMW inner case torque limiter bearing in the box that has no seals. It came that way. All the later Husky engines have the seals. When its in the case this happens to be the smallest diameter shaft bearing in there and it's sealed from getting additional lubrication, "stupid". Think about that bearing and it's small diameter, add in the engines RPM while its spinning in the engines cases and think about taking a single ball bearing out of the race of that bearing and rolling it across the floor and measuring how many feet per second it travels? Do you want to calculate that out how many miles per minute perhaps? With limited lubrication (sealed) or with unimpeded lubrication. Think about that !!
Here's a picture of my new early BMW inner TL bearing, It's slipped onto a new TL which is an "A" unit which is etched 227NM. This a new one, which is out of the package so you can see the other (outer) side that already has the bearing installed when you buy the TL. I have the bag somewhere and the box for the bearing. I've pictured it before on here on this same issue. That issue was? To remove or not to remove the seal. The size is. 35x17x10, BMW part number # 11277707171 I think they are all sealed now from Husky or BMW. Part/Item number #4 in the BMW drawing. From http://parts.bmwmotorcycles.com the sight you bought the TL from. Above.
They even show the bearing in the parts picture without a seal. Take a look. I have picked mine out deliberately when I have replaced the bearing and my Original BMW bearing had no seal in it either.
Getting my FAA A&P License many years ago and Building Turbine engines and APUs for aircraft. One of those requirements was taught to us to actually calculate the travel speed in feet per second of single rollers out of a caged roller bearing. First by measuring the diameter of the individual balls diameter in that bearing and with consideration of the inner race it was rolling around. The numbers were astounding.
For instance a Garrett Turbine TPE 331 series engine spins at 41,230 RPM at 100%. Think about it. That's like a few miles per second, on an individual ball in some of those bearings. Massive amounts of oil for lubrication is what allows that to happen.
mlorenzini
Husqvarna
A Class
Thanks for that very thorough response!
mlorenzini
Husqvarna
A Class
So my part came in and it's etched with 233nm on it. Hope to install tomorrow. I'm a bit nervous about it as I'm not a mechanic.
Big Timmy
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Nothing to worry about.
If it's not out already?
You can tap out the old one with a soft wooden dowel or a brass drift, go lightly. You may not even need to do that.
Warm the case a bit with a heat gun and the other one will slip right in. It may come out that way also if you don't want to tap it out.
You'll need an expandable mandrel blind bearing puller to do the inner case bearing. It's not that hard to get out, Unless your going to keep running it. If so and it feels good still and is servicable, pick the seal out and toss it.
If it's not out already?
You can tap out the old one with a soft wooden dowel or a brass drift, go lightly. You may not even need to do that.
Warm the case a bit with a heat gun and the other one will slip right in. It may come out that way also if you don't want to tap it out.
You'll need an expandable mandrel blind bearing puller to do the inner case bearing. It's not that hard to get out, Unless your going to keep running it. If so and it feels good still and is servicable, pick the seal out and toss it.
Campbell
Husqvarna
AA Class
From my experience testing TL's the NM etching is not worth a pinch of #%!* most test well above the etched value and rarely below. The one I used for my positive oil feed mod was the BMW part# above etched 224nm if I remember correctly and actually tested 280nm and slightly higher after immersion in 80 deg C oil. Speaking of TL's what became of the Zipty TL thread? Tim any idea? I haven't been over here for awhile, but it seems to have been deleted inc my TL mod post....not sure why I bothered.
Dangermouse449
Husqvarna
Pro Class
Campbell, not sure myself haven't been around for a while.
I could appreciate the work you did and what you hoped to achieve, but with the greatest of respect, the number of failures vs the work involved it really would be wiser to just replace the TL if it eventually failed.
I'm certainly not trying to detract from what you achieved, but my own TE449 is now plus 300hrs on the original limiter. I'm certainly not a racer and it never sees high grip surfaces like bitumen, but I don't mind opening the throttle.
I'll be putting a new one in during a freshen up down the track a while.