• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE511 rear master cylinder problems? Parts?

Freekman

Freekman

Husqvarna
AA Class
So I bled my brakes in the beginning of the summer, cause there was very weak pressure. then like 3 weeks later same problem, but I noticed that the rear valve wasn't ever closed that well. So I did an overnight bleed and the system seemed to work well for a while. Now I have very little pressure again, which sucks, cause I am finally getting better at wheelies haha. So I am thinking it might be the master cylinder. Is there a way I can make sure without wasting my time and money on the part? also would this be the correct part http://www.halls-cycles.com/default.asp?page=xstore&keyword=8000+A9447&submit1=Search ? seems like a lot for a small part to me.
 
Hi there,

I had the same problem on my TE450 a few weeks ago, i went over EVERYTHING, cheked for leaks on the hose`s, checked the O-rings, container for brakefluid and cheked all the crews/nuts ect and could not find anything wrong.
When i took of the rear caliper i saw the piston was wet, so i took the caliper apart and changed the rings and gasket and it works perfect.

Hope this helps, good luck!
 
Another commonly overlooked thing is the free-play adjustment of the brake pedal.
There should be a small amount of movement of the cylinder rod from the pedal before it contacts the cylinder piston.
This allows the piston to travel all the way out to its stop & let it draw in fresh fluid from the reservoir for the next stroke.
If it can't, the pedal can be ok to begin with, then get progressively worse as you ride.

I have adjusted quite a few out on the trails for mates of mine...
 
Ok great, thanks. I didn't really think it could be the mc cause I haven't ridden that hard on the rear brake. Looks like I have some new things to check. Can you tell me which ktms use the same master cylinder
 
Freekman said:
Ok great, thanks. I didn't really think it could be the mc cause I haven't ridden that hard on the rear brake. Looks like I have some new things to check. Can you tell me which ktms use the same master cylinder
Click to expand...


Most of the ones I've seen run the same Brembo brand cylinders as the Husky. Just a matter of what bore size they/you have.
 
So I did have the brake adjusted poorly. I fixed that and bled the line, but I still can't tell if I am getting the full pressure that I should. I know it is hard to judge this without feeling it, but how much bite should I have. When I am stationary and I put the brake to the floor the bike won't move, but I can move the bike under my own power when the brake is halfway depressed. I can't lockout the backtire while moving at slow speeds on pavement either. IDK if this is normal or not or maybe there is another adjustment I can make
 
It should lock the rear tyre easily at low speed.
There's possibly still air in the system.
Another way to bleed it is to use a large syringe filled with brake fluid.
Attach a price of hose to the end that fits the bled nipple. Get the air out of the hose, fit to the bleeder & crack it open, slowly force the fluid back through to the master cylinder. If that's no good, likely to be a bad cylinder.
 
Thanks guys, I have been seriously busy so I am not able to do much work or check this thread too often, but you guys have been really helpfull
 
Bump to bring this thread back up. I have a newish 2013 TE 511 with 700 km's with the same problem..bleed the rear brakes and two weeks later no rear brakes again. Obviously a defect in this bike. Was a common fix ever found?
 
Well, not very common, but read through this thread and try brake free play and bleeding before rebuild.
 
Not a common fault.
Almost never hear of brake issues on our FB page.
First check is to make sure you have correct pedal free play in the pushrod into the master cylinder.
From there, if you still have issues, inspect for any system leaks or corrosion and try Reverse Bleeding with a hose and syringe from the bleed nipple to the master cylinder.
 
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