Te511 oil shower

[Tinken]

So Tinken, I, admittedly, am not very knowledgeable when it comes to viscosity numbers and what they mean. You seem to know what you're talking
about in that regard. After reading your recent comments on the 15W50 may be harmful to my motor I bought a liter of Motul 300V 10W40 Synth. Couldn't find
0W-40. Not even sure if they make it . So I did an oil change a few days ago. It's been my experience with this bike and oil changes is when I remove filter and both
screens, lean it over yada yada to get it all drained. Close it up and I dump in one liter, start it and warm it up. Take her for a spin around the block. Turn it off then check it and add accordingly. I don't even measure at this point. It was very close. I poured about two glugs of 15W-50 Motul (fresh) as that was all I had but that should be ok, right ? When I say two glugs it's probably like 4 oz. or less. Both are 300v Synth. Also, is there a big difference between using 0W-40 and 10W-40?

Motul 300V 10W40 is expensive, but it matches manufactures specification exactly. 13.1 cSt. There isn't a noticeable difference in performance between this and 0w40, one of the main reasons why I recommend Mobil1 0w40 is because it matches closely to this specification and is inexpensive. Another recommendation is Mobil1 4T 10w40 which is also very close to specification and only slightly more expensive than the 0w40.

I believe that O'reilly auto parts stocks a good selection of oils up near Sacramento.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/fi/storeresults/sacramento/CA/25.oap

 

[Tinken]

What will happen if there is too much oil in the transmission compartment? I can't quite picture how the pumps work, but if this is a dry sump design, then the pick up compartments must be isolated from the rest of the compartments right? Too much windage?

For some reason I thought you were running 1400cc of oil... but maybe that was with an oil cooler?

Understood on the liability aspect. Would love to hear back on what could 'hypothetically' be problematic with running too much oil, and what that amount of oil might be!

At this point, I am unsure how much oil I am running, I haven't drained it since testing. For testing purposes before releasing the valve cover vent, I tilted my 511 over on it's kick stand, pulled the oil fill plug and filled with 0w40 until oil ran out the threads. This placed the oil at a level higher than most people would normally fill. I then rode with my breather bottle attached on the exhaust side of the engine across Lucerne Valley, CA for approximately 100 miles through miles of whoops, high speed, up and down verticals with not a single issue other than a tiny leak from my down tube from my breather bottle AN fitting.

If you did manage to get the oil high enough in the case to where its level was higher than the right hand side main crankshaft bearing, oil could slowly seep into the crank shaft area which is normally sectioned off. It will handle a small amount of oil in this compartment, it has it's own Eaton oil pump. But, if you kept adding oil higher than this bearing over and over again as it seeped into the crankshaft area, it is possible to develop crankshaft lock. This would require a large amount of oil in order to do this which even did not happen when Randy placed 2 liters of oil in his engine.

On a side note, the higher the rpm you run in your engine, the more oil tends to build in the top of the head. As this oil builds, the crankshaft sump goes lower and lower. Now at 800cc's of oil, almost 300cc's of oil is used up in the filter and galleries of the engine which left 500cc's of oil in the bottom of the sump. I don't know about you, but this seemed quite frightening to me. Vertical climbs of any lengthy time would seriously limit your oil delivery efficiency. This is why we put our breathers off to the side and devoted all energy to the breather vent.

 

[oregonsage]

Finally got to the valve cover mod tonight. For some reason the 'uni bit' didn't center very well and the shoulder on one side of breather is a little closer to the lip of the valve cover bolt seat indent than I would have liked. It looks and feels like it seated good though, will try it out tomorrow and see how it works!

Also planning to add some oil in small increments. Tinken, any idea how many cc's to submerge the TL?

View attachment 25340

I was considering this hose arrangement last night while pondering how best to hook the Zip-Ty valve cover vent to the airbox. Looks pretty sanitary, think I will try mine that way too.

 

[511BRAAP]

I think it's pretty functional. When oil and gasses hit the tee, gasses up and oil spills down. I think a bottle would be best, but this is a cheap fix for now, and I haven't seen any oil in the air box. I would do a 45 or 90 out of the fill plug if I were to do it over. I used 1/2" tranny hose rated to 400f.

 

[Tinken]

I agree with the temporary fix. I will add some update info in my forums later about my breather bottle progress.

 

[K5PL5]

yes, but then my scooter has less than 500 miles on it so break in might be improving shifting also.

Yeh Im only at like 500 or so miles now

 

[oregonsage]

I think it's pretty functional. When oil and gasses hit the tee, gasses up and oil spills down. I think a bottle would be best, but this is a cheap fix for now, and I haven't seen any oil in the air box. I would do a 45 or 90 out of the fill plug if I were to do it over. I used 1/2" tranny hose rated to 400f.

Thats what I want, the best answer until the bottle arrives...

 

[Blacktop]

View attachment 24969

Where did you get this catch can?

 

[Tinken]

Where did you get this catch can?

He made his.

 

[reboundrider]

Finally got to the valve cover mod tonight. For some reason the 'uni bit' didn't center very well and the shoulder on one side of breather is a little closer to the lip of the valve cover bolt seat indent than I would have liked. It looks and feels like it seated good though, will try it out tomorrow and see how it works!

Also planning to add some oil in small increments. Tinken, any idea how many cc's to submerge the TL?

View attachment 25340

I finished installing ZipTy's full oil recirculation kit about two weeks ago and have had a chance to put 200+ miles on it since then with 90% being on road. I had been running 1 full quart (946 ml) of Mobil 1 Racing 10W40 full synthetic with no oil puking issues. When I first got the bike it was filled to 1150 cc and I did have oil spewing everywhere.

When I removed the valve cover I noticed that the factory bolt holes did not appear to be perfectly centered and when I drilled the 3/4" hole for the breather valve I experienced the same issue that 511BRAAP did and was worried about the O-ring seating properly. I was also worried that the bolts might not align properly when tightened but everything tightened down ok. It would probably be a good idea to clamp the valve cover down and properly set up your drill press so the bit is truly centered rather than letting the bit follow the factory hole which may be off center to begin with. The breather does fit tightly in the valve cover so you have to make sure to align it properly in the valve cover before you seat it. If you try to twist it after it is seated in the cover you might shear the fitting for the hose off. I used grease to tack the valve cover gasket in place and also the collar for the bolt for the breather so it wouldn't slip off during installation.

Two suggestions for improvement of the kit would be to improve the design of the retainer clamp that holds the drain hose in place to prevent it from contacting the hot exhaust pipe and to add 2 inches to the length of the heat shield material that covers the drain hose.

The oil catch tank is beautifully designed and matches the shape of the engine. It looks great on the bike and seems to function very well so far. The first thing I noticed after filling the bike to 1200 cc of oil is that it shifts so much smoother and runs quieter and easier. Overall I am very pleased with the kit and love the improvement in the way my bike is running.

 

[reboundrider]

I finished installing ZipTy's full oil recirculation kit about two weeks ago and have had a chance to put 200+ miles on it since then with 90% being on road. I had been running 1 full quart (946 ml) of Mobil 1 Racing 10W40 full synthetic with no oil puking issues. When I first got the bike it was filled to 1150 cc and I did have oil spewing everywhere.

When I removed the valve cover I noticed that the factory bolt holes did not appear to be perfectly centered and when I drilled the 3/4" hole for the breather valve I experienced the same issue that 511BRAAP did and was worried about the O-ring seating properly. I was also worried that the bolts might not align properly when tightened but everything tightened down ok. It would probably be a good idea to clamp the valve cover down and properly set up your drill press so the bit is truly centered rather than letting the bit follow the factory hole which may be off center to begin with. The breather does fit tightly in the valve cover so you have to make sure to align it properly in the valve cover before you seat it. If you try to twist it after it is seated in the cover you might shear the fitting for the hose off. I used grease to tack the valve cover gasket in place and also the collar for the bolt for the breather so it wouldn't slip off during installation.

Two suggestions for improvement of the kit would be to improve the design of the retainer clamp that holds the drain hose in place to prevent it from contacting the hot exhaust pipe and to add 2 inches to the length of the heat shield material that covers the drain hose.

The oil catch tank is beautifully designed and matches the shape of the engine. It looks great on the bike and seems to function very well so far. The first thing I noticed after filling the bike to 1200 cc of oil is that it shifts so much smoother and runs quieter and easier. Overall I am very pleased with the kit and love the improvement in the way my bike is running.

I forgot to mention that for some strange reason the bolt that holds the spark plug coil down to the valve cover is recessed down with a raised plastic wall around it so you can't get a wrench on it (there is no clearance for sockets anywhere on the valve cover so I don't know how anyone could follow the torque settings when re-installing unless you had the engine out) so I took a dremel to it to allow easy access for a wrench.

 

[Elsmicko]

Hi Folks,
Newbie here, love the discussions around the engineering stuff on Cafe Husky! I am in the process of getting a new bike, should have it next week (TE449), just wondering if the breather issues mentioned in this forum include 2013 models? For all the posts out there, I really can't find anything that negative about the Huskys! I am looking forward to it as I am converting from an XR400 (+BB kit and hot cam) , the best part being an electric leg!

 

[Tinken]

There is a hold down clip for the return hose to keep it away from the exhaust. I can add extra heat barrier and hose length to the next kits. New drainback kits will improve return function aswell.

 

[Sailingaz]

Yep, have a lathe and mill. I have put almost two thousand miles with the oil return mod, mostly unpaved. I like the bike now that it does not puke oil. I like it a lot.