• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te511 oil shower

511BRAAP said:
I ran clear tubing up to the airbox, thinking that I would run a few tests and possibly see some oil build up. My first test was 70mph (with stock gearing) for 3 to 4 minutes, followed by about a minute of riding in circles with some simultaneous brake and clutch play -no visible oil. Next test was a 1/4 mile or about 800' of sustained hill climb -no visible oil. Last week I had two 'lazy bike' incidents while trail riding, where the bike was on its side for about 5 seconds -no oil on the left side, little oil wash evidence in the clear tube when it was down on the right side, but no sitting oil.
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you will get a periodic spray of mist every once in a while and a good trickle if you ad 1600cc . Bike benifits more from a catch can than a return system if all your running is 1200cc . That's why I dumped the breather box / return system because all I'm going to fill mine is 1200-1250 cc and whatever blow by it gets is going to my chain.. You do need a breather catch can at the minimume if you keep your vent routed to the airbox.
 
Rearwheelin said:
you will get a periodic spray of mist every once in a while and a good trickle if you ad 1600cc . Bike benifits more from a catch can than a return system if all your running is 1200cc . That's why I dumped the breather box / return system because all I'm going to fill mine is 1200-1250 cc and whatever blow by it gets is going to my chain.. You do need a breather catch can at the minimume if you keep your vent routed to the airbox.
Click to expand...

You've concocted quite the set up Rear! What are the benefits of running a catch can over a return line? Not sure if sending intermittent blow by to the chain is for everyone... but love the ingenuity!
 
511BRAAP said:
You've concocted quite the set up Rear! What are the benefits of running a catch can over a return line? Not sure if sending intermittent blow by to the chain is for everyone... but love the ingenuity!
Click to expand...
Thanks, the catch can for the guys who run 1150-1250 cc and route there vent to the airbox is what I'm saying. With the valve cover mod probably need the return system . My "new " ruturn system is very simple and must have the breather mod. It simply T's into the stock vent line and the oil gets reclaimed threw the stock vent breather. I will basically have two breathers and the end of the hose routed to the chain . You can still run a catch can instead of the chain luber :)
 
I would like to run enough oil to submerge the torque limiter, which will require capping off the oem breather location. Based on your tests, how much oil do you think it will take to cover the TL? I'm guessing 1300 to 1400cc? I'm going to try this when I install Tinken's valve cover breather and see what happens... I'm guessing my return set up won't be able to handle the volume... but we'll see
 
511BRAAP said:
I would like to run enough oil to submerge the torque limiter, which will require capping off the oem breather location. Based on your tests, how much oil do you think it will take to cover the TL? I'm guessing 1300 to 1400cc? I'm going to try this when I install Tinken's valve cover breather and see what happens... I'm guessing my return set up won't be able to handle the volume... but we'll see
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I had 2000cc in and nothing came out the OEM breather :) the bike will not let you know when enough is enough, only the creaters of the engine know your question... I'm good with 1250cc . I did ride my bike all over town and down the highway using my breather can and return system with no issues. Not interested in guessing on max fill capacities anymore.. 1250 or so and I'm good :)
 
so far so good using 0w40 mobil also measured out 900 cc's this time instead of just pouring in a "quart", just need a ready to go shiny red breather setup so I can run all the oil. Side note the clutch is quiet!!! thanks every one that helped, now tinken get busy and sell me that setup!
 
I machined it from 2" round stock, the nipples from 1/2 " tubing. If it wasn't such a pain removing that much material I'd make another one.
 
Ty's original breather bottle looked similar to yours. It was mounted on the front radiator of Nick Burson's txc511. It had a swirling centrifugal design that condensed the oil vapor. Mounting and drain back issues made him back burner the project.

Nice job on the breather vent, did you find it difficult to install?
 
Not at all, simple in fact. The instructions were clear, it took about 45 min, due to it being the 1st time removing the valve cover, way less if I was practiced. The most difficult part is getting the gasket seated all around when you reinstall the valve cover. The bottle is pretty simple and the bracket has the one mount, if it pivots I'll put a roll pin next to the bolt. And thank you.
 
There is a tiny bolt holding your spark coil in place. It sits inside a plastic indent. If you grind the indent off, it makes it a snap to remove next time, or while in the field. :)
 
Im only running 1150cc in my 449. I guess I'll have to experiment and add like 100cc at a time and see how it goes.
Did your shifting improve after going to 1500?
 
Finally got to the valve cover mod tonight. For some reason the 'uni bit' didn't center very well and the shoulder on one side of breather is a little closer to the lip of the valve cover bolt seat indent than I would have liked. It looks and feels like it seated good though, will try it out tomorrow and see how it works!

Also planning to add some oil in small increments. Tinken, any idea how many cc's to submerge the TL?

511 valve cover breather mod.JPG
 
Due to liability, I can only tell you to run 1150cc's. Ty and I discussed tonight finding out how much oil the dry sump will really hold because we don't know for sure. We are going to test this though. I wouldn't fill until the torque limiter is submerged because it is located near the top of the transmission. The torque limiter is going to run much cooler at even 1150cc. Others in the threads have tested much higher volumes with good results.
 
So Tinken, I, admittedly, am not very knowledgeable when it comes to viscosity numbers and what they mean. You seem to know what you're talking
about in that regard. After reading your recent comments on the 15W50 may be harmful to my motor I bought a liter of Motul 300V 10W40 Synth. Couldn't find
0W-40. Not even sure if they make it . So I did an oil change a few days ago. It's been my experience with this bike and oil changes is when I remove filter and both
screens, lean it over yada yada to get it all drained. Close it up and I dump in one liter, start it and warm it up. Take her for a spin around the block. Turn it off then check it and add accordingly. I don't even measure at this point. It was very close. I poured about two glugs of 15W-50 Motul (fresh) as that was all I had but that should be ok, right ? When I say two glugs it's probably like 4 oz. or less. Both are 300v Synth. Also, is there a big difference between using 0W-40 and 10W-40?
 
Tinken said:
Due to liability, I can only tell you to run 1150cc's. Ty and I discussed tonight finding out how much oil the dry sump will really hold because we don't know for sure. We are going to test this though. I wouldn't fill until the torque limiter is submerged because it is located near the top of the transmission. The torque limiter is going to run much cooler at even 1150cc. Others in the threads have tested much higher volumes with good results.
Click to expand...

What will happen if there is too much oil in the transmission compartment? I can't quite picture how the pumps work, but if this is a dry sump design, then the pick up compartments must be isolated from the rest of the compartments right? Too much windage?

For some reason I thought you were running 1400cc of oil... but maybe that was with an oil cooler?

Understood on the liability aspect. Would love to hear back on what could 'hypothetically' be problematic with running too much oil, and what that amount of oil might be!
 
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