TE511, Lots of flame out stalls. Where do I start...

[klinquist]

I've read threads until I was blue in the face.

Bike stalls a few dozen times a day when out on the trails. Only 500 miles on it, running Race Map II, Akro pipe.

What is your vote on where I start:

butterfly valve removal
or Racemap III?

I may end up doing both, but which do you suspect is most likely to solve the problem?

 

[N4544D]

Depends; flame out and stalling can be considered to be different events. Flame out, as a quick blip of the throttle and the bike dies, can be a butterfly issue or a too low of idle issue. Stalling, as in you are lugging the bike, you hit a rock or log and it stalls...well, I consider that just a stall. In my opinion, these engines don't lug as low as peers due to the engine having a shorter stroke, and it takes some more clutch work than you may be used to.

Map 3 should improve your low RPM fueling and will give you more power everywhere; bonus is this only costs $40. I'd recommend Map set 3 regardless. Seems like the '11 bikes had more fueling issues (with the butterfly), not sure what year your bike is.

My experience is Map 3 is a good thing, the butterfly removal made a slight improvement in starting and improved throttle response, but I can't really give a definitive answer if it improved resistance to stalling. Higher idle did help in the lugability...

 

[Teambowles]

Here's what I did with my 511. Was having flameouts all the time at stop lights etc...bike always fired right back up...matched my 511 to my 449 with the tps or big brass screw and did tps reset. Fyi took it to dealer and had them reset with no better results. I set the brass screw at 5 1/4 turns out from all the way in. Disconnected the battery for about and hour and for first 5 minutes held in the starter button to discharge all voltage. Hooked battery back up after the hour and let it idle for 5 minutes not touching the throttle just let it idle. Now it's all good no more flameouts. The butterfly removal imo is for the dead throttle issue twist grip and no response. Map 3 will help for sure, I run fmf map 3 and took smog junk off.

 

[Huskynoobee]

I would do map 3. Assuming you are either in Europe or Australia and your bike came with the Akro stock, you'll want to ask for the Akro map if they look at you funny with the map 3 request. The TPS reset is also something you should definitely do and that doesn't require any dealer interaction.

For now I suggest you leave your butterfly alone until you get the stalling sorted as it really doesn't do anything to solve it as mentioned.

 

[klinquist]

Thanks everyone. I'm in the US and got the akro pipe on ebay. I'll try the map 3 first. Thanks!

 

[Avejoe]

2012 TE511 with the same issues. When I park the bike I disconnect the battery. Before a ride i let it warm up for about 5 minutes. That seems to work well until a couple of hours into my ride the bike starts stalling again. I suspect the issue may be a bad water temp sensor. I am ordering a new one as they are pretty cheap.

When the bike runs good, I love it. When it runs poorly, not so much.

Good luck.

 

[Huskynoobee]

Thanks everyone. I'm in the US and got the akro pipe on ebay. I'll try the map 3 first. Thanks!

Cool, I just got an Akro myself thanks to some cool peeps around here after running the stock pipe ever since 11. I decided to try and get the FI to "learn" the new muffler by running map 1 since I still have an O2 sensor. I can't load map 3 as my ECU is locked so gave it try for 7 miles then went back to map 2 and ran 7 more without any other tuning. Then I fiddled a bit with some settings on my JD and man what a difference it makes having a motorcycle pipe instead of a Fiat muffler. I can only imagine what a full on PCV would do to press my eyeballs against the back of their sockets.

If you can't find a local dealer to help with the ECU update, send it to our friends at Zip Ty. They are a great source for us 449/511 riders.

 

[richard kersten]

If it has 500 miles on it could it still be under warranty

 

[klinquist]

If it has 500 miles on it could it still be under warranty

Damn. Of course I bought it with 338 miles, but now it has almost 600 .

 

[Dangermouse449]

I would definitely get the ecu loaded with Map3 / Akro race map.
I disagree with the statements above in regard to the butterfly removal not being part of the flameout issue.
If you blip the throttle several times in a row, the electronic lag in the system has the second throttle closing while you are opening the main throttle looking for power & adding load via the clutch, the engine stalls as a result. I have vidoed this at 120fps & it is quite visible.
The butterfly isn't the sole cause, but is most definately one of the offenders.

The mapping is also poor at the bottom end & requires some finenessing either by a tuner box or the primary TPS voltage.
Raising the idle speed does also help a lot but opening the brass screw adds air as well as rpm & makes the idle mixture leaner if extra fuel isn't added also.
Also speaking from experience with my own 2011 bike, the TPS 'reset' with the battery did not change things for my particular bike. I don't know why that is but that's how it was. The major change was getting the base TPS voltage up to the factory setting, then better again just past it.
Hope that helps.

 

[klinquist]

ECU is on its way to ZipTy, will report back on the results .

 

[Huskynoobee]

I must respectfully disagree with DM in that you should hold off on removing the butterfly until you have your ECU back from Zip Ty. Also, simple TPS reset did wonders for my bike years back when it was new. Not knocking the idea of ditching the butterfly as it yields some positive results in terms of dead throttle and improved snap off the bottom. I just have the mindset that by trying one thing at a time you will actually know what it took to solve the problem.

I've contemplated removing the thing, but am holding off as I haven't had any real problems that make me want to do it. However as the saying goes, your mileage may vary. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Dangermouse449]

I agree, definitely start with Map3 and work from there.
The measured one thing at a time approach is a wise choice and is actually what I did to my bike over a couple of days before my original butterfly post.

Some guys report no issues at all with their bikes & don't even have the updated maps, others have just map3 loaded & run well.
Yet others, mine included won't play nice by normal means & have to be told what to do

 

[rancher1]

+1, I agree always just make 1 change at a time to see the change or lack there of.