• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE449 Used Oil Analysis

I don't care about oil analysis, I am over changing it to remove whatever metal etc, my engine is depositing to rub
and cause more wear in my engine. It is well known however, I am not a smart man.


Yep but it is still fun to see the info and understand whats going on when someone posts this info. One guy found a good amount of antifreeze in his oil and it enabled him to rectify an issue before it left him stranded or with a blown motor.
 
So how wore out do our bikes need to be before we go to 10-40 ? 10-50 ? 15-50 ? 20-60 ?

So if we did a oil analysis after running higher weight oil other than 0-40w we should see much higher heavy metals right ?
 
I do like the information and discussion. I am going to change it even if the analysis says it's still good.
I went to a BMW oil seminar in the 80's and looked at unused oil and oil at 100 miles. It was alarming
How much material an engine can shed. We viewed it through a microscope, and since then very prompt
and frequent with the oil changes.
 
I do like the information and discussion. I am going to change it even if the analysis says it's still good.
I went to a BMW oil seminar in the 80's and looked at unused oil and oil at 100 miles. It was alarming
How much material an engine can shed. We viewed it through a microscope, and since then very prompt
and frequent with the oil changes.


^This, no magic or silly viscosities needed, just change it frequently! :D
 
I must say this is one of the better oil threads I've seen. I thought I was weird that I rub it between my fingers looking for anything to catch in my finger prints. Glad I'm not alone on that one. :cheers:

There is one more specific test I forgot to mention...the smell test. If it smells bad, then it is bad. :p
 
^This, no magic or silly viscosities needed, just change it frequently! :D
Ha ha , I get tired of dumping perfectly good oil though ! You need the micro scopic heavy metal floaties to fill in pack off the microscopic imperfections on the bearings so the smart guy in Elsugundo says.
 
Here's my 15,000 mile oil analysis....one of the calcium deposits in there might be a leftover kidney stone...

Husky15koilChange2_zps2b04c176.jpg
 
If you ride like a puss, then silly viscosity probably wont mean anything to you.
lol lol lol ! .... I ride like a puss too ! I short shift when the torque loads are down , I had to ad a Xtra cooling fan I go so slow... You can be a puss and still be a good rider. I call a puss when there is never any skill progress and somebody who scared to scratch there bike. :)
 
Appreciate the discussion guys, good stuff.

I'd love to see an analysis of the mobil 0w40w. I like the theory but I have had bad luck in the past with mobil. Its only 25 bucks, someone should pony up and get their stuff tested so we can compare apples to apples rather than opinions to opinions.
 
Appreciate the discussion guys, good stuff.

I'd love to see an analysis of the mobil 0w40w. I like the theory but I have had bad luck in the past with mobil. Its only 25 bucks, someone should pony up and get their stuff tested so we can compare apples to apples rather than opinions to opinions.
I will do the 10-50w MotorX or maxima full syn test :)
 
Isn't your "finger test" a test of how much grit is in the oil?
No I'm checking for slickness .


I have about 15,000 miles on a 450 Husky motor, 10,000 miles (10 changes) of which have been on M1 15w50, 15w50 mixed with M1 10w40 and also M1 0w40 (all car oils). M1 works, it's proven.
M1 is good oil . I just don't know why the bike shops don't stock it if it's that good for your bike, mainly for the clutch. From my experience the euro bikes have far better clutch systems than the Jap bikes and seem to handle car oil.
 
...I will try to tone it down.
That would greatly be appreciated.

I do understand that you are having a good time, but for whatever reason some do not appreciate your interactions with certain other people who have put a lot of research into things like oil.

Perhaps think twice about how people might react to what you type?
 
It's interesting how microscopic shrapnel in oil can affect the engine. I don't mind changing oil frequently - it's disposing that oil in the correct place is what is difficult and everyone needs to be weary of.
 
It's interesting how microscopic shrapnel in oil can affect the engine. I don't mind changing oil frequently - it's disposing that oil in the correct place is what is difficult and everyone needs to be weary of.


We have recycling here and they pick up used oil with the trash (just set it at the curb)
 
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