• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE449 Ridden Hard review

Davo, have you seen the small piece of plastic used as a defector protecting the airbox snorkel?...i extended mine with duct tape sticking the stuff back to back to increase the tapes ridgidity. I also put some metal mess over the snorkel to stop grass, water and other foreign bodies getting in there. I also cut a thin slice of sump foam to cover each of the air box drain holes.

One thing ive noticed is where the chain runs close to the frame ive got some minor wear marks. Have any of you guys got this i think its being caused by the chain chattering against the frame. Im thnking a piece of rubber tube say off a cars water coolant system should be good enough protection?
 
RE: spud1968 - I have always thought about cutting the airbox for more flow as it seems the filter sits too close to the main duct on top of the radiator. After a long dusty ride only that corner seems to get dirty. I was looking into possibly getting a second duct and mounting it upside down on the other side. To even the airflow a bit more into the airbox. Not too keen on cutting holes as river crossings are common on my rides
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i pulled the air box cover on mine last night, didn't have much time to mess with the JD tuner but i did notice a real difference in how quickly the bike wound up compared to the gradual build it had. It was still weak right off throttle, i miss that off idle snap that my EXC had. I am going to add a few holes to the lid and test it with tomorrows ride.
 
BignHusky said:
i pulled the air box cover on mine last night, didn't have much time to mess with the JD tuner but i did notice a real difference in how quickly the bike wound up compared to the gradual build it had. It was still weak right off throttle, i miss that off idle snap that my EXC had. I am going to add a few holes to the lid and test it with tomorrows ride.
Click to expand...

I bet with some EFI tweaking you gain some bottom snap. My 511 snaps pretty hard of the bottom, not CRF hard but not soft by any means.
 
play with the idle. green and acceleration pump settings one and a time. Run them up and down the range some and see if you feel changes. The idle adjustment does little tot he idle on mine but does affect the response and stalling right off idle.
 
i just did this. I noticed by running the settings down on idle i was able to remove some of the hesitation. I now have some more holes in the air box lid also. I know you suggested it would do little but i am pretty certain that it has made a difference in the way the bike winds out. It revs up quicker. Pretty cool. gonna play with it some more on tomorrows ride. :thumbsup:
 
My 449 has the 2012 map with jd tuner. Green setting im leaner then standard its set to 1. All other settings are richer if your interested ill post my set up. The akra exhaust is restricting your bike youll just have to accept this until its changed.

Just fitted a G2 throttle. Ive been riding with the throttle pushed tight againsr the master cyclinder, so a quicker action throttle has been on the shopping list for sometime. The setup ive fitted the 400cam my next race is a fast course and full throttle will be needed quite a lot. Ive a test ride next saturday and this shall confirm which cam to run making ready for the race on the 13th may.

Front forks ive gone back to the 48kg springs with the rear shock using the standard spring. And not forgetting that extra hole in the airbox.....lots of changes to my bike since the last ride a big test ride next saturday for me.
 
I had a great ride today, definitely pulling harder with the air box swiss cheesed. The throttle change would be welcome. 400 cam is that the TC cam? The bike still flamed out plenty in the tight stuff but i was geared way too high and had to clutch a lot. I'll go to a 51 or 53 t next time on these trails.
 
My gearing is 15front 48rear and stalling is not a issue. Your problem is your exhaust its very restrictive. I had the spark arrester removed from mine it helps a little but if you want power change it for a full fmf likw i did its amazing how much power that standard system sucks from the bike.

Your airbox, how many holes and what size have i gone far enough with my two 70mm by 10mm holes?

My throttle will be differennt to the tc449 its an alloy throttle that comes with three different throttle cams: 100, 200, 400 the 400 is the quickest action so i dont have my elbows pointing forward to get full throttle.
 
Full Ti Akro system with power commander5 = Awsomeness..
Opens these babies right up, real smooth power delivery.
And yes the standard akro system is very restrictive compared to my new one.

IMG_0591.jpg

photo1.jpg
 
B3, your graph is spurring me on to have my 449 dyno'd. I assuming your airbox is derestricted? Nice looking bike too.
 
Davo449 said:
No worries fellas.
The pillow tops do help but only after hrs and hrs of long hard riding, just helps minimize tingling hands. Other than that not a very noticeable difference. I run the lite grips as i like to feel the bars. Cant say anything on the thicker pillowtops.
The gear lever is a pain in the ass for me too. Ive cut the pinch gap wider and ran a few different bolts, locktite, even used some thread tape on the spindle and same thing after every ride. The worst bit the bolt is ridiculous to get to.
I'm biting the bullet and buying a whole hammerhead gear lever so hopefully solves the issues. Ill let yous know when I do and if it helps. Anyone else done this?
RE: Rearwheelin - good to hear the plastic guide works better for you. I ride some very hard rocky terrain and found the alloy guard hasn't come unstuck yet. It has saved my sprocket a few times actually.
RE: spud1968 - I have always thought about cutting the airbox for more flow as it seems the filter sits too close to the main duct on top of the radiator. After a long dusty ride only that corner seems to get dirty. I was looking into possibly getting a second duct and mounting it upside down on the other side. To even the airflow a bit more into the airbox. Not too keen on cutting holes as river crossings are common on my rides
Click to expand...

Davo, I am fairly sure that Hammerhead do not make a gear lever for the TE449/511.
I will be interested to hear if you get one.
SAM511
 
spud1968 said:
B3, your graph is spurring me on to have my 449 dyno'd. I assuming your airbox is derestricted? Nice looking bike too.
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Ive just takin the rubber snorkel out. Im thinkin of cuttin another hole on the other side, see how that goes. But yeh its worth spending the money on. It still has balls but it comes on alot nicer and more predictive.
 
SAM511 -
Yeah I've been researching around and have found nothing. Ive had special tips turned up by Hammerhead designs before so will be interesting to see if they come up with a replacement lever for the 449/511.
The standard gear and brake lever to me are poorly designed and very flimsy. The amount of times I've had to straighten my brake lever from grabbing a vine etc.
Ill do some ringing around to mainmoto and Hammerhead to see if its in the works, I might be able to push a template onto the system as I know that a fair few blokes WOULD purchase if it was available.
B3no-511 -
Top looking bike. Don't mean to come across rude just wondering roundabouts pricing on the whole system as you are also in Australia. Trying to toss up between the FMF system with powerbomb header or the system you have on your bike.
 
Davo, your question about which exhaust fmf or akra. Ive the fmf with power bomb its loud but not as loud as the akra with mega bomb. The fmf full three piece system cost £600 the akra is £1400. I prefer the looks of the akra but not that price.
 
Everything I've read says the power/mega bomb on the FMF header is meant to quiet the exhaust for AMA decible requirements and is not meant for exhaust flow/power production. Weight savings between the stock header and an aftermarket version is another matter. A less restrictive slip-on muffler, possibly combined with opening the airbox, are where gains are derived. After uncorking, a JD tuner is virtually mandatory, as the bike will run lean, causing the all-too-common flame-out that many complain of.

As a spirited trail rider, I've found the FMF Power Core 4, combined with the FMF "quiet insert" (to regain some back pressure), is the way to go for increased snap off idle while avoiding the need for a JD to richen the intake and avoid flameout. Basically, $300 (US) for the Powercore and quiet insert uncorks the bike and avoids intake tuning issues. The power gain derived from this cheap and easy solution should be plenty for anyone other than competitors who need every additional edge.
 
gillies said:
Everything I've read says the power/mega bomb on the FMF header is meant to quiet the exhaust for AMA decible requirements and is not meant for exhaust flow/power production. Weight savings between the stock header and an aftermarket version is another matter. A less restrictive slip-on muffler, possibly combined with opening the airbox, are where gains are derived. After uncorking, a JD tuner is virtually mandatory, as the bike will run lean, causing the all-too-common flame-out that many complain of.

As a spirited trail rider, I've found the FMF Power Core 4, combined with the FMF "quiet insert" (to regain some back pressure), is the way to go for increased snap off idle while avoiding the need for a JD to richen the intake and avoid flameout. Basically, $300 (US) for the Powercore and quiet insert uncorks the bike and avoids intake tuning issues. The power gain derived from this cheap and easy solution should be plenty for anyone other than competitors who need every additional edge.
Click to expand...

My bike was still quite lean with semi unrestricted muffler and stock header in race map mode (on JD dyno and sniffer). The JD is needed to make it right regardless IMHO. You are missing a bunch of power up top without it on the TE version anyway.
 
Motosportz said:
My bike was still quite lean with semi unrestricted muffler and stock header in race map mode (on JD dyno and sniffer). The JD is needed to make it right regardless IMHO. You are missing a bunch of power up top without it on the TE version anyway.
Click to expand...

Agreed. The JD certainly has its place in an effort squeeze everything out of the engine, especially if you've opened up the front and back significantly. I only suggest that valuable gains can still be had by the casual rider through modest investment. The trick with the FMF slip on, as previously stated, is to recork the flow a bit with the quiet insert, to avoid the need for a JD. That's my experience, anyway.

My intent was to let readers know that titanium headers and exhausts, combined with aftermarket fuel mapping devices are certainly cool and all, but not entirely necessary to wake the bike up a bit and shed some pounds.
 
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