• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te449 New To Me

SAR_Swimma

Husqvarna
Hey guys, just picked up a 12’ te449 with 2,100miles. New to dirt all together and this is my first bike; looking to start single track and forest road riding with some fellow veterans. I’ve replaced the head stem bearings, fork seals, Mighty Mouse breather, removed second throttle plate, Ecu map 3, new Michelin starcross tires, and removed the stator bolts and lock tited it as recommended. I’m wanting to replace the sprockets and chain as well, but don’t know (understand) what tooth ratio is ideal. Should I stay stock or is there a more optimal recommendation? I know they ride 80-90%dirt trail with pavement highway loops back or to other trails. I just don’t have enough insight to make these choices efficiently. Any help and recommendations on what else I should address or upgrade would be greatly appreciated.
 
I left my 449 stock and found it a good compromise for dirt and road. You will love the traction this bike has due to its sprocket and swingarm being on the same axis. They just hook up really well. The only issue I had was that it would not idle low enough for me. This higher idle is apparently the trend today (supposedly to eliminate flameouts), however I live in the high country and this was causing me some concern on steep descents and tight corners. The younger guys seem to want this aspect however.
All in all a good bike with good power and suspension and without doubt the best traction of any 450/500 ever.
 
Ghte, thanks for replying. So keeping the stock gearing at 15/51 is most ideal for the majority dirt with a bit of pavement? Also, as far as the chain; are the o-ringed x chains the best choice? I removed the front and rear sprockets a few hours ago and there are toast. The valley makes more of a “J” than “U”;Like waves. Definitely required replacement.
 
Again? No pic=didn't happen Let's see it! Good o-ring chain will be fine. Always replace sprockets and chain at the same time. Front sprockets are cheap and easy, so you could get a 14 as well. 1 tooth on the front sprocket = @ 3 teeth on the rear sprocket. :cheers:
 
You may want to look at a 15/ 47-48 set up as it really helps with not running out of gear in rough spots. I run 15/47 on mx with my TC449 and they are geared the same in the trans.

Paw Paw
 
NCSteve, I actually just finished reading about the 3-1 ratio from front to rear sprockets. Thanks for confirming my perceived understanding. If I went 15-47 wouldn’t that then widen the ratio (so better for pavement)? I thought for trail going the opposite would benefit more (like 14-49/50 or 15-53)? Or am I just envisioning this all wrong? Also, is there significant gain for cost of going aluminum over steel; saw Renthal ultralight, but twice the cost of JT carbon. Thanks for the feed back paw paw, when you say “run out of gear” does that mean I won’t have to shift as often? Will that in turn decease the torque/power at the throttle?
 
I've been riding my TE449 for almost 2 years now. I went from the 15/51 to a 14/51 and still wasn't happy with the engine braking and the torque for single track and rock crawling. So I went to a 13/51 set up and am very happy with it. It's great for tight, technical stuff and hills, and can still run at 60 miles an hour for short distances (it will go faster but I try not to wind it out too much). I do ride it to work and around town, but never on freeways, typically 50 mph or less.
Not long ago my rear sprocket worked loose, the holes where it was bolted on enlarged (as it was aluminum), and it could have been bad if I hadn't caught it. I replaced it with a steel sprocket.
 
What I found on my TC449 was that the lower gears ran out too quick and there was I was loosing grunt. Thus I reviewed the trans gears and the final drive gear rations and compared them to my Honda CRF450R and adjusted the final gear set to get the best match for 3 gear down and not worry about the higher gears. It has worked out great. Still can do second or 3rd gear starts and have regained the low end grunt I was wanting. The bike is so much easier to ride and there is less shifting and yet still have all the grunt to use as needed.
FYI: I use a steel rear sprocket.

Paw Paw
 
NCSteve, I actually just finished reading about the 3-1 ratio from front to rear sprockets. Thanks for confirming my perceived understanding. If I went 15-47 wouldn’t that then widen the ratio (so better for pavement)? I thought for trail going the opposite would benefit more (like 14-49/50 or 15-53)? Or am I just envisioning this all wrong? Also, is there significant gain for cost of going aluminum over steel; saw Renthal ultralight, but twice the cost of JT carbon. Thanks for the feed back paw paw, when you say “run out of gear” does that mean I won’t have to shift as often? Will that in turn decease the torque/power at the throttle?
Right and you may get lucky and find a rear sprocket that works for both and just change the front. In other words, 15 tooth front if the ride is mostly roads, 14 tooth if the ride is mostly trails.
Aluminum sprockets are lighter, but don't last as long as steel. There's Supersprox, and a few others now, which has steel teeth and ali core which are a little lighter. I just run Sunstar steel, JT steel lasts about as long as ali for me. Their x-ring chain is pretty good though.
I suggested the 14 tooth front sprocket because it's a pretty significant, noticable change and you'll be able to judge the effect easily. :cheers:
 
If you are buying new rear and front sprockets and chain the get 2 front sprockets-14 and 15 teeth) they are cheap and interchangeable, giving you some optionality.
 
Thanks to all of you that have allotted your time to my post. I’m learning so much from y’all! I elected to order a 14 front and keep the rear 51. Now after reading the most recent replies I also just ordered a new 15 front sprocket as well. I wen with an x chain as I read the preferences over a standard o-ring chain. Should get these in and on the bike by Tuesday! Think I’m going to check my valve clearances while I’m going to these extents of service and repair.
 
NCSteve, so good and bad relating your last comment. By dumb luck I ordered both front sprockets made from Sunstar. However, the rear sprocket I order is a JT. Would I just be better served waiting the extra few days longer to get an Sunstar rear sprocket and return the JT?
 
Rear sprockets last twice as long as fronts so don't sweat it. Just mount them up and ride her like you stole her.
 
Yeah, I'd just run the JT sprocket and enjoy. Look forward to hearing how it all works out for ya :cheers:
 
Just saw this thread. I run a combo of gearing on my 449. For tight rocky technical I run a 14 front and stock 51 rear. For dual sport with minimal open road I run the 14 front with a 49 (I think it's 49, maybe 48)rear. For big dual sport adventures I run the 15 front and 49 rear. I also run 2 rear wheels. The stock 51 stays on the 19" and the dual sport gearing and DOT tire stay on the stock 18" wheel. I bought another rotor so I have both ready to go.

I also take both wheels with me to the desert. I know the 19 isn't the ideal off road size but I like some of the rubber that only comes in 19. I have had to swap to the 18 with the 49 on occasion after finding a cactus messing around off the trails and with the 14 front it works pretty good too. I can still ride fairly tight stuff just making sure to feather the clutch a little when it gets nasty.

Don't know if that helps or just adds confusion, but there ya go.
 
Thanks everyone! Just got all the parts in today. Going to start with the 14/51 combo and see how the difference is. I don’t think I’ll go down as far as an 13 tooth. Most of the guys ride KTM 500 exc-w, so I’ll be dropped on pavement. Can’t wait to get these on see how it goes. I’ll post an update, thanks again y’all!
 
Well it all went back super quick and easy till I realized I put the front sprocket backwards. So... now I’m well rehearsed in removing the swing arm Didn’t get a chance to ride it as I still have the valve-cover off, but will be trying it out tomorrow morning.
 
Well it all went back super quick and easy till I realized I put the front sprocket backwards. So... now I’m well rehearsed in removing the swing arm Didn’t get a chance to ride it as I still have the valve-cover off, but will be trying it out tomorrow morning.

pictures.

teach others. (btw, we've all blown it more than once)
 
I get to take my swingarm off. My master link snapped and wadded half the chain up by the countershaft. I guess 4000+ miles on a chain is a bit much. Luckily the case saver did it's job.
 
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