Yep, you've probably read this stuff on quite a few threads, but I thought I'd compile a few key common things to look at on your new or recent issue TE449. It took quite a bit of searching for these as these issues came up for me, so why not get them together and add links to associated threads here on Cafe Husky.
I'm no guru, so please add what I've missed. Perhaps it can become a sticky?
Here goes...
1. Tighten all the nuts, bolts, and screws. Not just the first day, but every day. Blue Locktite is your friend, don't ignore your friend!
2. Don't overfill the crankcase on oil changes. It will just dump into the airbox and make a mess of the valve cover, frame, and the wire harness under the seat.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/best-explanation-for-oil-in-the-airbox-te-449-511.25484/
3. If it won't run consistently, do a TPS (throttle posistion sensor) re-set. This cures many problems that suddenly come up on a bike that has been running well.
http://www.cafehusky.com/posts/237375/
4. The fuel map that comes stock is okay, but a bit on the lean side. Adding the jumper to the wire harness that is located either in front of, or just below the ECM under the seat will enable Race Map II. It will show up on the speedo display after the engine has been started. You will enjoy more power that is also more usable. While many remove the O2 sensor, it's not necessary and you'll need it if you decide to go back to Map I for any reason.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/race-map-ii-when-powered-up.17673/page-2#post-187864
5. The smog canister is a main cause of unhappiness in the middle of a hot ride. Not to mention it's UGLY and just waiting to get smashed, snagged, or otherwise cause more problems that it's worth. If your mount is out of warranty, or you just can't stand how lousy a hot re-start can be, get rid of that thing. It just takes a few minutes and is worth every ounce of effort.
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2265&highlight=canister
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-emissions-canister.2017/
Pictorial near bottom of page. Shows 310, but identical procedure.
6. Depending on how well your FI works, where you live, if you replace the stock exhaust, and your style of riding, consider a JD Tuner. There are many who sing it's praises here on Cafe Husky. Motosportz seems a good resource (I'm not a shill, heck I haven't even bought anything there...yet)
http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm
7. If you still have the Karoo tires, start shopping around now for replacements. Besides feeling like ice skates unless you run low pressures, the rear is good for 500-600 miles.
8. Get the factory shop manual. The book it comes with is all but worthless, and the thumb drive is only a little bit better in that it covers only the most basic of maintenance items.
http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011.htm
9. Take the time to dial in the suspension. It responds quite well to basic adjustments and you could find that expensive re-vavle job you were thinking of won't be needed. There are different springs available if needed as well. Motosportz seems a good resource (I'm not a shill, heck I haven't even bought anything there...yet)
http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm
I'm no guru, so please add what I've missed. Perhaps it can become a sticky?
Here goes...
1. Tighten all the nuts, bolts, and screws. Not just the first day, but every day. Blue Locktite is your friend, don't ignore your friend!
2. Don't overfill the crankcase on oil changes. It will just dump into the airbox and make a mess of the valve cover, frame, and the wire harness under the seat.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/best-explanation-for-oil-in-the-airbox-te-449-511.25484/
3. If it won't run consistently, do a TPS (throttle posistion sensor) re-set. This cures many problems that suddenly come up on a bike that has been running well.
http://www.cafehusky.com/posts/237375/
4. The fuel map that comes stock is okay, but a bit on the lean side. Adding the jumper to the wire harness that is located either in front of, or just below the ECM under the seat will enable Race Map II. It will show up on the speedo display after the engine has been started. You will enjoy more power that is also more usable. While many remove the O2 sensor, it's not necessary and you'll need it if you decide to go back to Map I for any reason.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/race-map-ii-when-powered-up.17673/page-2#post-187864
5. The smog canister is a main cause of unhappiness in the middle of a hot ride. Not to mention it's UGLY and just waiting to get smashed, snagged, or otherwise cause more problems that it's worth. If your mount is out of warranty, or you just can't stand how lousy a hot re-start can be, get rid of that thing. It just takes a few minutes and is worth every ounce of effort.
http://www.cafehusky.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2265&highlight=canister
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-emissions-canister.2017/
Pictorial near bottom of page. Shows 310, but identical procedure.
6. Depending on how well your FI works, where you live, if you replace the stock exhaust, and your style of riding, consider a JD Tuner. There are many who sing it's praises here on Cafe Husky. Motosportz seems a good resource (I'm not a shill, heck I haven't even bought anything there...yet)
http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm
7. If you still have the Karoo tires, start shopping around now for replacements. Besides feeling like ice skates unless you run low pressures, the rear is good for 500-600 miles.
8. Get the factory shop manual. The book it comes with is all but worthless, and the thumb drive is only a little bit better in that it covers only the most basic of maintenance items.
http://www.husqvarnafactory.nl/pdf/2011.htm
9. Take the time to dial in the suspension. It responds quite well to basic adjustments and you could find that expensive re-vavle job you were thinking of won't be needed. There are different springs available if needed as well. Motosportz seems a good resource (I'm not a shill, heck I haven't even bought anything there...yet)
http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm