• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te310R Need to lower brake pedal tip

SiberianHusky

Husqvarna
C Class
Hello all...This is my first post. A week ago I picked up a new Te310r and I LOVE it. I mean I LOVVVE it. Of course not unlike any bike I would have purchased it has a couple of quirks that I need to fix. I lowered the pegs and now I need to lower the rear brake pedal farther than it seems to built to drop. Has anyone else had this issue? How did you fix it? Does anyone make an after market pedal that can be further adjusted?

I think I might drill out the rivet and invert the pedal tip and then somehow try to grind out teeth on the smooth bottom which will now be the top.

Any ideas guys?
 
Welcome mate.

Good choice of bike, I love mine too. I lowered my pegs which also left my brake pedal too high. I rode like this for a while and even had a few "too much back brake" crashes. Lowering it was easy and done by adjustment only.

Have you already made adjustment (see pic) and need more?

How did you lower the pegs?

brake.png
 
Have you already made adjustment (see pic) and need more?
How did you lower the pegs?

Yes, but see how your plunger (bottom left arrow in your pic) has a few threads left? mine is bottomed out. Adjusting the round bump adjuster (middle top arrow in your pic) any lower I think will drag the rear caliper.

How did I drop them? I'll tell you a very common trick I learned from KTM guys and have used to lower every dirt bike I have ever owned.

What you do is take both the pegs off, then in a vise you slowly hack off the collar that all bike pegs have on the underside that raises them in their mounting assembly. You then swap the springs from left to right and right to left and reassemble. No parts required and you have dropped your Pegs about 3/4 inches. I'll gets some pics. I can post after I get home later (wife's birthday today).
 
Yes, but see how your plunger (bottom left arrow in your pic) has a few threads left? mine is bottomed out. Adjusting the round bump adjuster (middle top arrow in your pic) any lower I think will drag the rear caliper.

I know what you mean. Mine is bottomed out too with no more adjustment. The pic is not my bike, just got it off the net to help explain my question.

I've got Fastway pegs in low position, so approx 10-12mm lower. The brake adjusted in the lowest position is JUST enough for these pegs. If I went 3/4 (19mm) lower, I would want to drop the brake pedal more too.

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you on that one.

I considered cutting my pegs to lower them the same as you. I just wasn't comfortable with the strength of that solution. The Fastway system is much stronger/better in my opinion. Have a read of this: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/lowered-foot-pegs.24917/
 
there is a mod, you can cut the shaft of the plunger on the threaded side. MXA mentions that "fix" for KXFs and for their TM test as well. Their note is that they cannot adjust the pedal low enough for their taste. I also like mine lower than the "norm" mine is at full shaft thread use and sits a @ 2cm or so below my peg level. I found a happy medium between very low where I really like it and higher to keep it out of rock damage way. (brake snake installed as well)
 
Take the nut off the adjuster and you will get a little more travel. If thats not enough you can chuck the adjuster in a drill and use a grinding wheel to lower the tapered end that pushes the master cylinder plunger. I also made a new round pedal adjuster from larger diameter rod.
 
I considered cutting my pegs to lower them the same as you. I just wasn't comfortable with the strength of that solution. The Fastway system is much stronger/better in my opinion.

I cut mine on day one for break in only, I was never really worried about the strength but the third party pegs are just sooo good that I have bought Fastway pegs for every bike I have ever owned. My Fastway EVO Airs are in the mail right now, after the 4 hour easy brake in the modified stock go to ebay and the EVO's go on for good.

Thanks all! I went to lunch and had all you experts weigh in while i was out, I was surprised at how many people were willing to help so quickly. Owning a Husky is going to be even better than I thought with all this help. I'm going to take your advice and carefully mod the plunger screw and adjuster. I'll post pics of it ASAP.
 
I took a look at the reservoir and plunger and it looks pretty simple but I'd feel safer if i had a diagram. Does anyone have that or a pic of what's under the rubber boot covering the plunger?
 
Back
Top