TE310R dropped a load of coolant on the floor

[MotAd]

Did a service on the bike today. Rebled clutch and to check it was 100% i ran the bike so it was really hot. Anyway, long story short it ended up dropping a load of coolant on the floor. Now I'm guessing either the water temp sensor is faulty or there's an issue with the fan as it didn't come on. Anyone with any insight?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

...also it could be a bad cap, releasing coolant early.

fan test: the thermoswitch is in the radiator hose going up to the right side radiator. Short the terminals together and the fan should come on when the bike is running.

If not, check the fuse and DC (?) relay; I don't think your bike has a separate relay for the fan.

The factory wiring diagram is slightly screwed up and does not show either the fan or the thermoswitch? IIRC.

 

[ghte]

the 310's did have an issue with the water temp sender (red motors mostly). However it usually put the fan on rather than not at all.

 

[MotAd]

Ok cheers fellas. Yeah couldn't find anything in manual. Maybe I'll just order a new rad cap and temp switch as has have limited time now before the next run. Will let ya know if they fix it

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Ok cheers fellas. Yeah couldn't find anything in manual. Maybe I'll just order a new rad cap and temp switch as has have limited time now before the next run. Will let ya know if they fix it

don't buy the switch yet- sometimes you can just short it with a pair on needle nose pliers, while the bike is running, without unhooking any wires (the shrouds or tank might be in the way).

That fan (Spac? Spal? or similar) is notoriously weak also. the 310r really doesn't need one in most situations.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

the 310's did have an issue with the water temp sender (red motors mostly). However it usually put the fan on rather than not at all.

this is not a problem with the xlite redheads (250R & 310R); just the blackheads, because they use the CTS and the ECU to control the fan.

The earlier big blocks (red also) may have had the problem too.

 

[MotAd]

don't buy the switch yet- sometimes you can just short it with a pair on needle nose pliers, while the bike is running, without unhooking any wires (the shrouds or tank might be in the way).

That fan (Spac? Spal? or similar) is notoriously weak also. the 310r really doesn't need one in most situations.

Cheers TC. WIll try that. May be being a dumb ass but how do I short it without disconnecting?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Cheers TC. WIll try that. May be being a dumb ass but how do I short it without disconnecting?

just put a conductor (pliers, screwdriver, wire, paper clip, etc) across both terminals of the thermoswitch (if you have access) when the bike is running. or take both wires off and hook 'em together (paper clip again). whatever.

This is, in essence, putting 12v to your fan to insure it spins- but it also verifies everything in the fan circuit... with the exception of the thermoswitch itself (but they're fairly reliable). a fast, cheesy test that tells you a lot.

 

[MotAd]

just put a conductor (pliers, screwdriver, wire, paper clip, etc) across both terminals of the thermoswitch (if you have access) when the bike is running. or take both wires off and hook 'em together (paper clip again). whatever.

This is, in essence, putting 12v to your fan to insure it spins- but it also verifies everything in the fan circuit... with the exception of the thermoswitch itself (but they're fairly reliable). a fast, cheesy test that tells you a lot.

Ok cool, will hunt the thermoswitch out and give it a try. Will get a rad cap in the meantime too as it's a cheap and easy punt. Cheers TC

 

[R_Little]

Make sure your impeller nut did not loosen.

Fill with coolant or water.

Start bike and make sure it is flowing in the radiator.

May have to wait for the thermostat to open to see it.

I took the fan off my 2010 TE250. It never turned on no matter how tight the woods and how hi the ambient temp.

My 2012 TXC310 fan runs a lot but never boils.

 

[MotAd]

Thanks fella. You mean run the bike with engine cap off to check if water flows in the rad?

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Thanks fella. You mean run the bike with engine cap off to check if water flows in the rad?

I'm not R_Little but this is an easy answer:
exactly. if you have a thermostat, it should open after idling a few minutes and the flow past the open filler neck should be vigorous. beforehand, you might see some some fizzy bubbles.

if you do have a flow problem, think stuck thermostat or bad impeller.

 

[MotAd]

Ok cheers TC & R_Little, I'll give that a look too. Hopefully all will be ok!

 

[R_Little]

I'm not R_Little but this is an easy answer:
exactly. if you have a thermostat, it should open after idling a few minutes and the flow past the open filler neck should be vigorous. beforehand, you might see some some fizzy bubbles.

if you do have a flow problem, think stuck thermostat or bad impeller.

Exactly!

Sometimes I simply see if the rad is getting hot after 10 minutes of riding by simply touching it.

Hot motor/cool radiators are not "cool"

 

[MotAd]

Pleased to say the cooling system is flowing ok. Put a new rad cap in but bike still dropped a small bit of coolant. Checked it after each session and it settled down as they day went on. Will check the fan when I get some downtime as the connector is underneath the tank and I didn't want to eat into any track time today.

Cheers fellas

 

[Trenchcoat85]

Pleased to say the cooling system is flowing ok. Put a new rad cap in but bike still dropped a small bit of coolant. Checked it after each session and it settled down as they day went on. Will check the fan when I get some downtime as the connector is underneath the tank and I didn't want to eat into any track time today.

Cheers fellas

hey MotAd, I wanted to say that you may have air in your cooling system now- hidden in crevices etc.

Air expands a LOT with heat, over-pressurizes your cooling system, and will burp coolant out. Eventually, the air will migrate to the top and be the first to get blown out.

Add a couple ounces of coolant afterwards and you'll probably be good to go for a long time.

I can't imagine a fan being super-necessary in the UK, but maybe.

good luck.

 

[darkoverlod]

Hey guys, sorry to bust in on the conversation, but I am having a very similar problem and am curious about a couple things that were said.
FYI- I have a '13 TXC310R and I run straight water w/ Water Wetter as coolant. To start, I have a couple issues. First, I haven't heard the fan in a year or two. When I look into the radiator, while running, I do not see any indication of circulation. It hasn't been an issue, until last week. I ran a hare scramble in about 90 degree weather on a course that required a lot of clutching and, long story short, massively overheated and boiled out all of my coolant. So, here are my questions. Does this bike actually have a "thermostat" in the sense that it opens and closes to allow coolant flow, like a car? Or is it just a temperature sensor to turn the fan on and off? (I am speaking about the inline brass fitting where the fan wires come out of) Also, somebody had mentioned making sure the impeller nut was not loose. Is it possible that the impeller isn't spinning because of a loose nut?
I am going to tear into this today and would like to have a plan of attack when I do, so any advice would surely be appreciated. TIA.

 

[Trenchcoat85]

I do not believe your TXC has t-stat. [wrong. TXCs have a thermostat. but why?] There should be a temperature switch in-line one of the radiator hoses (right side?) and a fan fuse under the seat. I'll check the manual.

Yeah, check the impeller if you're not seeing flow.

You're on the right track.

 

[R_Little]

OT...I boiled my 2010 TE250 for the 1st time last weekend trying to cut new rocky trail.

Rads were hot so pump and T-stat is working.

I took off the rad fan a while back because it never went on.