• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310R 2013 Oil Filter ?

Thus the reason I am not on Facebook, Twitter, etc. Treacherous territory. I enjoy this forum because it is, in my view, civilized and respectful, allowing some dish back, but within reason between strangers. Concerns re cyber oversight by various agencies are in my legal experience legitimate, but somehow probably not too big a deal on a oil/filter thread.
 
I believe that Steel mesh filters versus paper is going to be forever argued. After 9000 hard desert race miles using a SS filter, I am convinced. I am not here to force anything upon you, I am only trying to help you guys with my knowledge. You will have to make your own decisions.
 
I change oil on my 511 every 150mi., I finally purchased the scotts filter. Eventually it will pay for itself.
In these engines I think flow is very important, and it helps that it has 2 more stainless filters from the
factory. Stainless filters are not new, and have proven effective over the long run.
 
Until somebody does an oil particulate analysis comparison between SS and paper, we will never know. My opinion, and its only that, is that with the frequency at which I change my oil, flow rate is of more importance than filtration.
I can't disagree with you, like you, it's just my opinion. I even ran a SS filter on my Ducati street bike for a while. With the conditions that I ride in, for my peace of mind, I use the paper/cotton filter. When I was a kid and first started thinking about things like oil filters and stuff I read and article (I forget where) stating that paper was the best filter medium for air filters but, it was not as practical as foam because it could not be cleaned easily. I assume it's the same for oil filters. I can live with the $6 to $12 a pop, but like I said that's just my opinion.
Rex
 
I use SS because of Bullet proof. They are used all over my airplanes. Fluid Patch tests are part of the maintenance procedures to check for particulates.
oil gets freshened in an overkill amount anyway. PS the paper (for Tinken) paper filter installed for my rebreak in of the 2013 was in pieces when I removed it, actually it stayed together when installed but the metal end cap was unglued and separated when I removed it.

Like Tinken said use what you want but if you use paper I suggest using the OEM product brand, the machine was tested and qualified using that particular component.
 
I use SS because of Bullet proof. They are used all over my airplanes. Fluid Patch tests are part of the maintenance procedures to check for particulates.
oil gets freshened in an overkill amount anyway. PS the paper (for Tinken) paper filter installed for my rebreak in of the 2013 was in pieces when I removed it, actually it stayed together when installed but the metal end cap was unglued and separated when I removed it.

Like Tinken said use what you want but if you use paper I suggest using the OEM product brand, the machine was tested and qualified using that particular component.
I sure can't argue with a pilot. I know PM is a major component of flying. I'm sure that I'll never have to make an emergency landing on an interstate highway with my Husky, but all joking aside what does a particulates test consist of? Years ago I worked in a metals lab and in the same building there was a lube lab and I know that that was one of the many test they preformed in the lab, but I never found out how they did that test. Can you give me a brief description of how it's done? Thanks, Rex
 
The oem paper dimensions and design do not flow enough oil in order allow the 310 engines to survive while racing. We tried rebuilding the oil pumps in the engine with Suzuki oil pump parts to increase flow. But this wasn't enough. Husqvarna knew about the issue and in 2013, increased the oil line size and fittings sizes to the head dimensions, but nothing else. While most riders do not race these engines, some may feel that the flow is unnecessary. I can tell you the engine damage will still occur, just slower.

Regardless of your choice of paper or SS filters, neither of which actually clean the oil. They are just pasta strainers to keep the big chunks out. We clean our oil by swapping it out with fresh, and quite often too.
 
Thanks for all the erudite input from everyone contributing on this post. The wife and I purchased a pair of 2013 TE310Rs this past summer. We are new to this sport of off-road riding. We have had a great time so far; (patient riding friends who are willing to guide and teach us the "tao" of dirt and rock.)

So, my take is, unless you live next to ZipTy Racing and have a few suitcases full of cash, buy a SS oil filter. (Even if you do live next store...)
My aim is to purchase the Scotts 2172 SS oil filter, and this will be the best choice. Change oil often, ride more. Did I miss anything important ?

Thanks again, Ken
 
My aim is to purchase the Scotts 2172 SS oil filter, and this will be the best choice. Change oil often, ride more. Did I miss anything important ?

Thanks again, Ken

Yes.... Aim for the Scotts but veer off at the first exit and pay only $19 at... http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/PC-Racing-FLO-Drop-In-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-P-p/4057725.htm. The Get your Mobil1 0W-40 at Wal Mart in a 5 qt. jug for $27. That way you and your wife can both get filters for less than the price of a Scotts, enjoy same filtration and have some change for the oil. When you receive the filter simply remove the grommet flip it and reinstall. Same filter 116 is for Honda too but flipping the grommet gets you identical to stock height of the filter. All this info by way of our trusted Tinken :applause:
 
I have ran the Honda filter in MY11TE250 for the last 5 oil changes without flipping the grommet over, so is the oil bypassing my filter? Just curious if I should flip it now or does it make a difference?
 
Yes.... Aim for the Scotts but veer off at the first exit and pay only $19 at... http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/PC-Racing-FLO-Drop-In-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-P-p/4057725.htm. The Get your Mobil1 0W-40 at Wal Mart in a 5 qt. jug for $27. That way you and your wife can both get filters for less than the price of a Scotts, enjoy same filtration and have some change for the oil. When you receive the filter simply remove the grommet flip it and reinstall. Same filter 116 is for Honda too but flipping the grommet gets you identical to stock height of the filter. All this info by way of our trusted Tinken :applause:

Johnrg, I went ahead and ordered 2 FLO SS oil filters. Yes, the pair was half of the price of one Scotts filter (with shipping). Thanks again.
 
The oem paper dimensions and design do not flow enough oil in order allow the 310 engines to survive while racing. We tried rebuilding the oil pumps in the engine with Suzuki oil pump parts to increase flow. But this wasn't enough. Husqvarna knew about the issue and in 2013, increased the oil line size and fittings sizes to the head dimensions, but nothing else. While most riders do not race these engines, some may feel that the flow is unnecessary. I can tell you the engine damage will still occur, just slower.

Regardless of your choice of paper or SS filters, neither of which actually clean the oil. They are just pasta strainers to keep the big chunks out. We clean our oil by swapping it out with fresh, and quite often too.
Amount of flow was not something that I had considered. My primary concern has always been filtration! Knowing flow will be improved with the SS filter, what brand would you recommend?
Rex
 
Nantista has problems with the PC racing filter and ended up going with the Scotts. I'm not sure if PC Racing have resolved the problem or not. I would give them a call. 951/698-4962

Crud, I have been tuned out for too long. I have been running the PC167 (I think that is the nomenclature) in my 449 with zero issues. Are these to be avoided for some reason???

I took your advice last year and added a shimming magnet too - and that sucker does catch a bit of fuzz each oil change - so I like that extra little bit of protection.
 
I sure can't argue with a pilot. I know PM is a major component of flying. I'm sure that I'll never have to make an emergency landing on an interstate highway with my Husky, but all joking aside what does a particulates test consist of? Years ago I worked in a metals lab and in the same building there was a lube lab and I know that that was one of the many test they preformed in the lab, but I never found out how they did that test. Can you give me a brief description of how it's done? Thanks, Rex
https://www.hyprofiltration.com/clientuploads/directory/Products/PDFs/ACCESSORIES-PUB/PTK1.pdf
 
here's a rough cut away drawing of the oil filter, as I stated 2 years ago the original PC filter I received the body was longer than the oem filter the rubber seal did also stand higher than the oem one as well. Even after flipping the rubber seal which did make it sit lower the filter body being too long made teh cover completely compress the filter tightly into the filter "receptacle" the spring washer was completly smashed between the filter and the engine case the 3 cover screws were squeezing the filter down hard as they got to the cover tight position and no im not going back and fixing my typos and no im not talikg about any other models only x lite 250/310 motors. At that time i called pc and they said they would deal with it. I never went back to them, and went back to scotts as my choice since the PC issue. I said before im done with this but hope you will all make sure the spring washer allows the filter to float off the engine case but keepin the filter sealed onto the cover. here is my rough drawing of the filter function
 
Who thought up this design anyway? :thinking:

te310.jpg
 
Some drunk Italian feller I recon... I heard someone was producing a better drain back design but I haven't seen pictures of it yet.:p
 
Back
Top