Te310 which year model?

[Tim Randall]

Hey guys i am currently looking at getting a te310 and have been guided here from dbw forum.

I am currently looking at 2009 and a 2012 which are second hand

The 2009 has 400klms, barely ridden, stock apart from barkbusters and bashplate
The 2012 has 85klms, tc motorcross fork cartridges, bashplate, radiator braces, warranty.

Now my main concern is which bike would you guys reccommend for your avaerage trail rider who does medium level single track, hill climbs, rocky hills, sand traps, little open stuff so thats no problem.

Would the tc cartridges be suitable for the bush? or are they motorcross suited?

I am coming from a drz400 so i dont think i will be dissapointed with the power or handling of either bike, just looking for something lighter and more fun to throw around the bush.

I am leaning towards the 2012 because of the warranty still on it, newer has to be better right??, and the 2009 worries me cause i have read about a few teething problems they have had (hot starting, leaking fork seals, temp sensors, wiring rubbing, airbox burn holes, poor quailty shroud bolts) and dont think the 400klms would have used the warranty to full advantage.

price is about $2500 australian between the two, but doesnt really matter to much as i am hoping to keep this bike for a while.

any suggestions, comments would be great!!

Cheers guys

 

[Weantright]

I would get the 2009 for the savings, more reliable motor, easier maintainence, more oil, and better lowend. All the teething issues are easily fixable just like the 2012 are. The TC or 50mm OC forks will need to be revalved and sprung for your weight/riding and will be really nice. Don't get Husky's fork seals, they suck and compromise performance for sealing. Now if you plan to race get the 2012 as it is far better racer than a DS and is 20lbs lighter.

 

[Tessier]

I would buy the 2012 it has the new x lite motor and overall is a lighter bike. It is also going to have updated fuel injection and other improvements that out way the increased cost. Most guy's revalve and respring forks anyways so that wouldn't be an issue if your going that route.

 

[AndrewS]

Is that 20lb difference correct? I seem to remember reading that the x-lite motor was 10lbs lighter, but where did they shave off another 10?

 

[Weantright]

Yes that weight is correct, might even be 25lbs. The X-lite motor has 1/2 motor oil, questionable clutch basket and other less reliable design items. Oil changes better be frequent with the oil film bearing on the cam. EFI is not spot on and will need the same work as the 2009. As stated from the OP, average rider on medium terrian an older red head motor will be better. Newer is not always better. I would love to push these new Huskys but the X-lite motors just don't have the longevity of the older ones. Not many owners have alot of time on them to say otherwise. My experience comes from dealers that many on here and over at TT trust. Are they bad bikes?? no just for a non racer compared to the older motor may not be the better.

 

[R_Little]

I had all kinds of problems with my 2010 x-light but i must say the 2012 models seem to have most of that sorted out.

The new bike is just so much better in terms of performance.

 

[Weantright]

Yes it does but sacrifices too much for an average rider.

 

[Catang5oh]

I like my 12, and you are in Aussie so you get the FI fix for free on the 12 model, free ECU and injector.Kayaba shocks front and rear.

 

[Benriding]

If your going to try to keep a long time would go for the 12 as time goes on 4-5 years will get harder to find parts for the 09. Every new bike that comes out will have issues the 1st year or 2. How long will the motors last? Won't know for 5 years but by then this will be the old proven one while there will be a new model with teething issues.

 

[mnb]

There are no significant reliability or longevity issues with the XLite. That's all speculation that is not based on any evidence.

Yes, it has less oil capacity. Yes, some temp sensors fail early. They cost $15 and are easily replaceable. If you have a soft hand, you might want a JD tuner or the newer ECU/12hole injector. If you have a heavy hand, I doubt you'll have any issues with the EFI.

The '09 is a more docile bike, the '12 being more high strung. The '09 is build from the heavier 450 block. Why buy a bike with lots of dead weight in the block? If you want that engine, get the 450 rather than short yourself some power.

 

[Tim Randall]

Thanks heaps guys, lots of food for thought
I'll go look at both and with the info I have recieved and read on here make up my mind
I'll be shore to post up some piccies when I get her and more then likely have a few more husky newb questions for yars
Cheers guys

 

[Allan Briscoe]

Tim I have the 2011 te310 I test rode the 2009 310 when I was looking at buying a bike as the dealer in Adelaide had one still in stock they tried to sell it to me much cheaper but I stuck to my first thought as there was about 25 updates from the 09 to 11 and the 12 has about three more majoor ones. I have done 2500 km on my bike in all different rides from enduro to trail rides and just straight out dirt raod stuff and the bike is great. Yes you change to oil every 500 km but I have a XR250 before this bike and did the same oil changes anyway. I have fitted red force radiator guards barkbusters husky bash plate and a sticker kit. The guys at R and D husky are great to deal with and they are in NSW. Go for the 2012 bike you get the fuel injector and ECU upgrade for free and it is a better bike. You can feel the difference between the two.

 

[Weantright]

There are no significant reliability or longevity issues with the XLite. That's all speculation that is not based on any evidence.

In my research I talked to many well known and trusted dealers, all say these motors will not last as long as the older ones. One dealer even added a mileage number that these motors will never see. One dealer has already repaired dozen of cam and brackets because it you don't tighten correctly they will twist resulting in damage, may even came from heat. Damage cam bearing face from dirt or manufacturing debree. Several people are dealing with bad rubber isolators on the clutch basket. Not a big thing but another durablity issue. Great motors but don't expect the life out of them. Speculation is only there because no one has any real time on these but so far I have heard more internal issues than with the old motor.

 

[R_Little]

The bottom end is reliable. I've had then apart.

The weak areas are:

The e-start drive which used to be splined is now supported only by the flywheel woodruff key and taper ala a 2-stroke KTM. It is verrry sensitive to fitment and torque. Google the 2003 Yamaha Wr450 flywheel key for background. It is s similar problem. If you get the flywheel in right it is fine.

The heads are problematic because the cams and the head itself is downsized resulting and small plain bearings where there were rollers in the past, a more complicated valve adjusting procedure that requires removal of the cams to change shims and TINY little cam cap bolts that seemed to be overtightened at the factory and then stip out at the slightest presure on the wrench. The cam cap towers are very small leaving the repar of these threads a delicate procedure. The Good new is after the 1st adjustment the valves stay in adjustment. Use a good torque wrench and be carfeul when adjusting valves. While difficult the Husky valves are still better than Honda valves and heads.

The electrical issues with starters and fuel pumps are all over this site.

The older bike is more reliable and robust but of course much heavier.

The 2012 models seem to be a little better put together than the 2010 I sorted out.