TE310 uncorking help

[ducatijohn]

Hi guys, I'm getting ready to uncork my 2014 TE310. I've already removed the canister and plugged the intake nipple. I know I have to install the open air filter cage, remove the O2 sensor and plug the opening.

I'm planning on installing an FMF Q4 S/A, will this be ok for the street also?
What about the hoses from the engine to the frame backbone, should these be removed?
Is there anything else I must to before I have the engine re-flashed?

Thanks all for your help. I've gotten a lot of great tips grom you all!

John
Cary, NC

 

[Johnrg]

While you are swapping air filter cages, pull the velocity stack and cut away the perforated restriction. Then load the Open Leo Vince Map and should be good to go. Do not pull the hoses. They are breathers. As far as the pipe, I don't know the db rating, but I'm sure someone else will chime in. Should be good with the above mentioned map.

 

[AndrewS]

You don't have to remove the O2 sensor on these bikes, like you did on the older models. Some have even reported that the bike ran poorly when it was disconnected.

 

[duggoey]

You don't have to remove the O2 sensor on these bikes, like you did on the older models. Some have even reported that the bike ran poorly when it was disconnected.

Yes, different fuel injection system and manufacturer to the previous year models.

 

[stretchrcr]

Here's what I did to my 14 TE310. Keep in mind some of this is basically turning the bike into a closed course vehicle.

· Load either the TXC or the TXC with open exhaust map.

· Replace the 40t sprocket and chain. I used a 50t.

· Remove the O2 sensor from the pipe and plug using the bolt/dummy plug you can get from a dealer.

· Remove the catalytic converter insert between the head pipe and the muffler.

· Replace the velocity stack with the TXC open version. (red plastic funnel in the airbox) You can cut out the stock one, but the open version is just a few bucks.

· Remove the backfire screen under the air filter. Not only is it unnecessary(my opinion), the way it is pinched under the filter looks like it might affect the sealing surface and let dirt in.

· Replace the air filter cage with the open TXC version.

· Remove the bolt on the left underside of the tank that rubs on the radiator hose and replace with a low profile button head bolt. Even better is to countersink the hole and use a counter sink bolt(that’s what I did). Even doing this leaves very little clearance between the radiator hose coming off the water pump and the tank. I've seen people cut the pump housing and weld it at a better angle. I’ll probably do that too. The alternative is to space the tank up a bit. Ty sells a kit with 5mm spacers that go under the tank mounts.

In addition, I also did the following. Not necessary, but an improvment.

· I replaced the battery with an Earth X lithium. It’s much lighter.

· I rerouted all the wiring around the airbox to go outside the frame/subframe but still inside the side panels. Still very well protected but gets it out of the way of the air filter.

· I added a strap around the battery and put Velcro between the battery and the fender. I don’t want the battery to bounce around in there.