• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310- Scotts sub mount problem/IMS question

B

Blayne

Husqvarna
AA Class
Anyone have experience mounting the BRP/Scott's submount on a 2013 TE310? The instructions say to use the stock bar mount bolts but there seems to be 2 problems with this:
1) the bolts are supposed to be reversed from stock, that is to say they are supposed to come up from the bottom of the tree, but they are too wide in this configuration
2) trying the bolt from the top side of the tree, the bolt will penetrate the submount and tree but is not nearly long enough. I can even get one thread on the nut.

I called BRP, verified the part numbers and they said everything should work with the oem hardware. I would just buy some longer bolts but I want I make sure I'm not doing something wrong before I circumvent the original design.


Additionally, I mounted up a new IMS desert tank....
1) why do they instruct us to switch the the petcock and shut-off?
2) my petcock came with a large black gasket that covered the entire mounting surface and the shut-off just had a small green o-ring... Does this sound right? Shouldn't both have the large black gasket?
-Thanks
 
i installed their sub mount kit recently - bolts from the kit through the top of the clamp (the instruction read the other way but clearly only go in the "normal" way, from the top)

they have had a lot of confusion and redesigns from what i understand on this model. so best to talk with them about what exactly you are working with. FYI, the kit i have, uses the stabilizer with the standard link arm (they used to have a reference to a special link arm required) - this means i can switch the stabilizer back and forth from my yamaha to my husky with just the two bolts...
 
KGSloan,
Even coming from the top, the stock bolts were too short. Did you use the oem washers over the rubber bushings? Also, I hate to bother you, but do you think you could give me the serial number on the sub mount so I can compare it to what I have
Thx
 
sorry i just saw this....

i used new bolts that were supplied with the SUB mount....put them in from the top down, used factory rubber bushings, and new nuts on the bottom of the stock tripple clamp (also supplied with my SUB mount kit

the part number for the "kit" i got was:
DM-SUB-6033-07

This included the frame bracket, SUB mount, and new bolts/nuts for the tripple clamp


here it is installed....


http://www.scottsonline.com/Stabilizer_Purchase2.php?Make=Husqvarna&Model=TXC&Bike_ID=6255&Year=2013&Size=310&Fred=&BI_ID=169058

I spent some time on the phone with scotts, and found out that the standard link arm in the reversed position (how they come setup from Scott's for SUB mount use) worked fine, even though at the time there were some confusing notes on their webpage.
 
Thanks for the info. I just got off the phone with BRP. They don't stock any 10mm bolts longer than the stock ones. I gave him the kit number that you mentioned...he stated that the DM-SUB-6033-07 didn't come with any extra bolts/nuts. BRP is calling Scotts to see if they have anything that will work. Hopefully SCOTTS will have some good news.
 
Blayne said:
Thanks for the info. I just got off the phone with BRP. They don't stock any 10mm bolts longer than the stock ones. I gave him the kit number that you mentioned...he stated that the DM-SUB-6033-07 didn't come with any extra bolts/nuts. BRP is calling Scotts to see if they have anything that will work. Hopefully SCOTTS will have some good news.
Click to expand...


i bought straight from scott's - instead of BRP

the only difference is that the risers are now engraved with "scott's" instead of "BRP"

i did this because BRP didn't even show a kit for the 2013 TXC310r, while the scott's website did. However, the scott's website is a little confusing about what is the correct stuff for the SUB mount. So i called and talked to them on the phone, they spent 10 minutes doing some research, and sent me that kit. it came in a pretty packed foam box, like the stabilizer did when i bought it for my yama WR, and certainly had two longer bolts to use with the stock triple clamp.....i've got my stock bolts/nuts installed in the stock risers for safe keeping. I certainly didn't buy any bolts separate either...

again - my kit came with the SUB mount, longer bolts/nuts, and the frame bracket
 
BRP called me back. They are having SCOTTS send the longer bolts. How does the company that MAKES the submount not know that longer bolts are needed. Anyway, thanks for your help...problem solved (hopefully).
 
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