te310 not starting

[bensl]

i have just done the top end on my 310 but now i cant start it. totally frustrated. i has spark but just wont fire. fuel pumps cycles like it should. valves checked (and checked again). fuel filter looks ok. ive just now pulled the injector an it looks ok (i will test properly tomorrow)

anything else im missing?? im close to trailering it to the bike shop with a signed cheque to tell them to fix it. so frustrating.

thanks

 

[bensl]

i should add ive also removed the starter motor to take that out of the equation.

 

[Shovelhead85]

i have just done the top end on my 310 but now i cant start it. totally frustrated. i has spark but just wont fire. fuel pumps cycles like it should. valves checked (and checked again). fuel filter looks ok. ive just now pulled the injector an it looks ok (i will test properly tomorrow)​

anything else im missing?? im close to trailering it to the bike shop with a signed cheque to tell them to fix it. so frustrating.​

thanks​

I've got a couple of guesses in order of probability (some in spite of your previous tests):

• valve timing
• auto decompression mis-adjusted
• fuel injector not connected correctly (a quick spray of starter fluid will narrow down the problem area)
• head gasket leak
• no spark at the right time (timing, gap closed- I know you said you had spark)
• rag in the intake system
• rag in the exhaust system (...okay, generally some kind of blockage somewhere; eg. exhuast pipe plug)
• air leak in manifold or vacuum cap left off
• no compression for some other reason (valves stuck or bad seat or broken ring maybe)
• out of gas

good luck

 

[bensl]

I've got a couple of guesses in order of probability (some in spite of your previous tests):

• valve timing - i installed the cams as per the manual (checked twice) and checked valve clearances are ok.
• auto decompression mis-adjusted i installed the cam as per the manual. anything else i should check?
• fuel injector not connected correctly (a quick spray of starter fluid will narrow down the problem area) i will try to test the injector tonight. can you please explain the starter fluid spray??
• head gasket leak - new gasket so should be good
• no spark at the right time (timing, gap closed- I know you said you had spark) checked the plug gap. good strong spark. not sure how to test spark timing?
• rag in the intake system - no
• rag in the exhaust system (...okay, generally some kind of blockage somewhere; eg. exhuast pipe plug) - no
• air leak in manifold or vacuum cap left off don't think so.
• no compression for some other reason (valves stuck or bad seat or broken ring maybe)- has compression
• out of gas nope!

good luck

thanks a lot for the help. much appreciated

 

[Shovelhead85]

thanks a lot for the help. much appreciated

no problem- I wish you luck.

The starter-fluid test would be to spray a 2-3 second shot of fluid into the air horn and quickly kick-start the bike. If it pops or even runs for a couple of seconds you have gained a lot of confidence that the problem is with the fuel system. The valve train (timing & integrity) and ignition system are all but eliminated as the major source of trouble. Got fresh gas? clogged injector? enough fuel pressure? injector functioning/timing?

If you get a giant backfire or flame shooting out the air box.... the ignition might be okay (at least you have some spark) but your valve (or possibly ignition, fuel) timing might be suspect.

If there are no changes to anything then you haven't learned anything from this simple test. Ignition maybe?

The fact that you have (real good?) compression is a major step forward- all but eliminates head gasket, valve timing, valves & seat, rings, intake blockage as a source of the problem.

 

[joedirt]

I know you double checked valve timing but check it again. I've run into this same problem. Was 1 tooth off and would not start.

 

[bensl]

I know you double checked valve timing but check it again. I've run into this same problem. Was 1 tooth off and would not start.

i did check it twice but i will do so again to make sure. i had piston at very top of stroke and installed the cams so the line on the covers was visible through the holes. that correct isn't it? i used a dial gauge on the piston so im pretty confident i had it right.

i just bench tested the injector and its fine. ill try the starter fluid test next (once i replace those f@#king injector screws with allen head bolts!).

thanks again.

 

[AndrewS]

I don't see the year of your bike listed, so can't comment on the method you're using with the line on the covers, but are you sure your TDC is of the compression stroke?

If it isn't, your timing will be out by 180 degrees.

 

[bensl]

Sorry it's a 2012 te310. i think the cams can only go on one way - with the marks/holes facing in.

(hopefully im wrong and thats the problem)

 

[need2boat]

If you're using the 2012 manual just note it goes over adjustment of the cams/valves for BOTH the RED and BLACK heads and they are different how the marks sit at TDC on both.

 

[AndrewS]

Sorry it's a 2012 te310. i think the cams can only go on one way - with the marks/holes facing in.

(hopefully im wrong and thats the problem)

What I was referring to is not related to the placement of the cams, rather where the piston is in its stroke when you place the cams. There is a TDC during compression, and a TDC during exhaust. You need to set your cams at TDC of the compression stroke when all valves are closed. If you used TDC during the exhaust stroke, your timing would be out 180 degrees. I.e. your exhaust valves would be open when your spark plug is firing, rather than all valves closed, if that makes any sense.

 

[joedirt]

single cylinder you just need the piston at TDC and make sure the cam marks are in the right location.

Don't make this more complicated than what it needs to be.

 

[R_Little]

What I was referring to is not related to the placement of the cams, rather where the piston is in its stroke when you place the cams. There is a TDC during compression, and a TDC during exhaust. You need to set your cams at TDC of the compression stroke when all valves are closed. If you used TDC during the exhaust stroke, your timing would be out 180 degrees. I.e. your exhaust valves would be open when your spark plug is firing, rather than all valves closed, if that makes any sense.

I don't think it matter what stroke it is on.

These are "wasted spark" systems and they spark whenever the piston comes up.
The stroke is determined by the cam position.

 

[AndrewS]

Okay, I didn't realize that. So is the injector firing every crank rotation as well?

 

[bensl]

ITS ALIVE!!!

thanks for all the advice guys. i pulled the cams again and reset them as carefully as i could, checked the valves and bolted it all back together and it started second kick. i must have been a tooth off like was said. i used the exact same process this time but i must have been slightly off before.

anyway its going and im happy! i still dont have a elec button but i might replace the gears if i feel lazy and don't want to kick it.

thanks again for the help.