TE310 Idle issues

[Pepstar]

I'm having an issue with my 08TE250 (Has an Athena 310kit).
The bike is idling irratically and stalling.
It normally idles around 2000 - 2200 but is jumping between 2300 back down to as low as 1400 then stalling.
I have included a vid of the bike idling in the shed, but it is hard to get the full picture unless im riding it...

You will notice the nuetral light flashes, which I was told a while ago that there was a problem with my neutral sensor. I don't know weather this is acutally true or not or if it is actually trying to show a fault.

I find the bike will run ok at the start off a ride but progressively gets worse the more I ride. I have checked out quiet a few different things which I will list below. It doesn't seem to happen in any particular circumstances, hills, flats, down hills, wide open, tight trails it does it all round! It is obviously worse at lower speeds when in more technical tracks and I find myself having to keep the throttle open a little all the time and use the clutch to alter my speed just to keep the bike running.

- Dealer tuned with ibeat and made the bike run leaner which helped for a few rides but the following week the bike felt like a slug and just ran like crap! I did get a new speedo and airbox fitted under warranty but I can't really associate these two with the issues im having.

- New sparkplug and checked out plug lead
- Battery terminals all ok
- all fuses connected properly
- checked over the wires (only visually) to see if there was anything obvious.. Found a broken brake light wire and disconnected headlight wire - fixed them up.
- Fuel hasn't changed and I use 98octane.
- Fuel pump is in place (cable ties are tight)
- Temp sensor replaced (thermo fan isn't swithing on but it was suggested to replace it anyway)
- Ibeat hasn't picked up any obvious errors... But the dam neutral light is still flashing!
- kill switch is sticking sometimes and doesnt fully realease out, but pump is still purging.
- Oil change including oil filter... oil was pretty low so needed to be done anyway.
- Flushed radiator and checked hoses.
- Thought it maybe the tank not breathing, so I changed back to a hose (had one of those bling cap things which suffocates the tank!)

After all that I took it for a test ride... Seemed to be idleing well and running ok for the first 5 minutes, got to the end of the street and bike just died pinned in 4th gear.. I rolled to the end of the street and then the pump wouldn't purge! Even after stuffing around with the kill switch and turning the key on and off 20 odd times! It eventually fired but wouldn't idle. I then pulled the pump apart again to make sure it was sitting in place ok and then played around with the kill switch...
Still no good!

Any suggestions?

- This vid I actually got a decent run for 55seconds... starts to play up after that and stalls at 2250. Idle screw was turned up and it was in gear.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_bTSEVDFwo

- This vid shows it hardly staying on at all unless I rev it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rulSYIqtvW0

-This 3rd vid shows a better indication over the other 2 vids above.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3qsECKBVg4

 

[ramz]

You will notice the nuetral light flashes, which I was told a while ago that there was a problem with my neutral sensor. I don't know weather this is acutally true or not or if it is actually trying to show a fault.

From the Owner's Manual:
*IMPORTANT: Functions of the GREEN warning light (4)
“NEUTRAL” in case of FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM
malfunction (contact your local HUSQVARNA Dealer)
a) With the GEARBOX NOT in NEUTRAL position: the warning
light FLASHES INTERMITTENTLY.
b) With the GEARBOX in NEUTRAL position: the warning light is
initially constantly ON then it FLASHES
TWICE IN RAPID SUCCESSION then returns to being constantly
ON. This cycle repeats itself. After eliminating the malfunction,
the warning light (4) returns to its normal operation.

 

[Pepstar]

Thanks Ramz....
It flashes in gear or in neutral.
The mechanic I took it to said there was no fault showing on Ibeat and told me I would need to buy a new neutral sensor because it wasn't working properly.
I don't want to buy a neutral sensor only to find out it wasn't a problem in the first place!

Has anyone heard of a neutral sensor doing this?
Or is the mechanic pulling my leg and it actually is a fault (not the neutral sensor)?

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Yeap' and to add to the Newtral light blinking- a question- did anyone put the 09TE310 ECU in it? Because that will cause the newtral light to blink simply because the 09ECU does not work with the 08' speedo. Curious cause if the dealer told you what the fault code was- and chose to not fix it or if there was no fault code.

I believe there is a test in the manual for the gear indicator to verify if that is faulty- never heard of one being faulty- and don't know for sure how that effects how the bike runs-

If you just had it hooked up to Ibeat at the dealer resently- how come they haven't resolved some of these concerns?- if they know what they are doing- it seems they would have addressed things or told you to try this (efi settings) and report back any problems at least. I'd follow through with them or find another shop near Melbourn? It sounds like alot of things going on- and it takes some hands on sometimes. I am sure CafeHusky will shed some light on some of the possible issues and may even fully diagnose it correctly- but hands on is so much easier.

 

[glangston]

My Athena kit, a 300 for my 2008 TE 250, shipped with an ECU that can be spliced into the bike's system. My bike is too lean off the bottom and without splicing this ECU in, the stock ECU will not take the proper adjustments on iBeat. I'm going to drop my bike off sometime this week at George's to see if we can get it fixed and sorted out. My bike runs not too bad and actually idles fairly well after it gets nice and warm.

I put about 200 mi. on the new cylinder so far.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Testing Gear Position Sensor-
NOTE that the ECU is given information as to what gear your bike is in- and is not just a neutral indicator. ?May effect or may not effect- spark advancement and fueling with stock ecu- Certainly effects bikes with A PCV as those can and do set up different fueling for each gear.

Gear shift position sensor checking (GPS: Gear Position Sensor)
Set the tester on "Ohm" position then detach the 6 ways connector (1) from the main wiring harness (the gear shift position sensor is fastened on the alternator cable with a clamp). Ground a tester terminal on the engine then insert the other one in the hole where is the gear sensor BLACK cable (2). The lever (3) is placed on the left-hand side of the engine.
After every shift, the lever automatically
returns to horizontal position. First gear is engaged by pushing the lever
downwards; all the other gears are engaged, by pushing the lever upwards. See the table below for the data to be checked.

A NEUTRAL…… (open circuit)* 312÷319 ohms
B 1st gear …………556÷568 ohms* 725÷739 ohms
C 2nd gear………… 817÷833 ohms* 1,31÷1,34 K ohms
D 3rd gear……….. 1,48÷1,51 K ohms* 2,18÷2,23 K ohms
E 4th gear…………. 2,71÷2,77 K ohms* 3,61÷3,68 K ohms
F 5th gear………… 6,75÷6,88 K ohms* 6,58÷6,71 K ohms
G 6th gear …………..14,8÷15,1 K ohms* 15,2÷15,5 K ohms
::::::::::::::::::: TC-TXC* TE-SMR

 

[MChammer]

I did the Athena 300 kit directly through Husky on my 08 TE 250 in July 09 and had problems too. Husky included in the kit what was essentially an 09 ECU for the TE 310, but it was not compatible with my 08 dash, so while the bike ran (not great, but ok) the neutral light flashed all the time. After a few month's of lip service from Husky on getting the dash/ECU compatibility fixed, I got tired of it and bought a Dynojet Power CommanderIII, put my original TE250 ECU back in, and used the PCIII to alter the injection pulses to where it starts, idles and runs flawlessly. Did this flashing start immediately after your kit was installed? If so, I would bet you have the same problem.

 

[thenash79]

hello, i also have 2008 te250 w athena 310kit an have same issues. The kit i purchased was just stock 09 310 cylinder/piston/ecu/ect... in an athena box. ever since i plugged in 09 ecu my neutral light does same thing flashes an it has a mind of its own, i plug 08 ecu in and it works flawlessly. i can live with neutral light but i also have been battling off idle stalling and choppiness. I had bike tuned before 310kit an it was much more crisp. I decided it wasn't enough power so i went for 310kit. after kit install it has off idle hesitation an stalls alot . you can hold throttle just off idle and hear it gurgling an spitin , give her a little more and it revs up fine , just the one bad spot.when she is warm it is worse and will stall alot. It is just that i use that throttle spot in every enduro trail I'm putting more miles on starter and leg than bike.I sent the bike to same dealer to get tuned again after 150 miles with 310kit and showed them the two issues .they said they don't even use neutral lights when they ride so don't pay attention to it they tuned with ibeat again.took out for a good ride other day an it was better but as the day went on it came back and ended up being the same crap.i was going to try to send back to get retuned again but i might go powercommander route.so your not the only one in this boat ,i will let you know what i end up doing and please do the same.
also how long did it take you guys to get power commander tuned really good?thanks

 

[MChammer]

This is from an older post I made, but here it is again...it really wasn't difficult.

Here's how I systematically approached getting my 08 TE 250 upgraded with the Husky (Athena) 300 kit and running properly. First off, after initial break-in as the original 250 new back in 08, I installed the Power-up kit. (Without the power up, the bike ran ok, but not great). The power up consists of removing the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe, plugging the hole with the brass plug/washer, and fitting a jumper plug in the electrical connection that the O2 sensor used to be plugged into under the gas tank. On the 08's the catalytic convertor was in the muffler, so they gave you another Arrow muffler with no catalytic convertor - in the 09's the catalytic convertor is in the exhaust pipe just before the muffler - remove it and put the stock muffler back on. Lastly, make sure the throttle stop is out - mine was already removed by the dealer. When I put the 300 kit on this year, I made the mistake of replacing my 08 250 ECU with the new 300 ECU supplied from Husky with my kit - leaving it in power up mode, it ran poorly. Also, because the new ECU was essentially one from the 09 310, it wasn't compatable with my 08 bike dash...the neutral light kept flashing. I took the 300 ECU off and replaced it with my original 08 250 ECU so the dash functioned properly, and even though it was thinking it was firing a smaller 250, it ran better than with the 310 ECU, but not great. My problems were that it surged terribly at lower RPMs and backfired terribly on decelleration (both because of a too lean condition in my case). I should add that after the install, the dealer did set the TPS correctly and made all the proper ibeat adjustments before I did all my work.
After talking to Dynojet about my particular setup, I installed a Dynojet Powercommander III designed for an 08 TE250 - even though my bike was now a 300. They admitted they had no fuel maps for my setup and said I'd have to (in their exact words) "Tune by the seat of your pants", so here's what I did.
First I created my own starting fuel map by taking Dynojet's already proven fuel map for a 250 and increased all their numbers by 20% - figuring I had 20% more motor to fire - and uploaded it to my Powercommander. I then took a silver Sharpie marker and put a small dot on the rubber flange of my throttle grip - close to the plastic throttle housing. Directly beside that dot, I put a line on the throttle housing so they lined up. Then I opened the throttle to 100% and again put a line on the throttle housing across from the dot on the rubber grip.
Next I measured the total distance between the 2 marks - 0% and 100% on the throttle housing and duplicated that with marks on a piece of paper (about 2" long). Using a ruler, I then made marks on that piece of paper at 5%, 10%, 20%, 40%, 60% and 80%.
Next I lined that piece of paper up to the 0% and 100% marks already on my throttle housing, and using that silver Sharpie, added the marks for the other percentages onto the throttle housing. Now comes the fun part... Take the bike out for a spin on easy trails with the dash set to RPMs - when the bike stumbles from running too lean, look at the dash for RPMs and the throttle position and take a mental note (say, 5250 RPM at 20% throttle). Go back to the shop and richen that particular area on the fuel map, upload the new map to the Powercommander, and take it back out for a spin. When you have it running good all over, your "seat of the pants" tuning is complete. Of course it's not as scientific as the pros with a dynomometer, but it's cheaper, and my bike now runs flawlessly from lugging along like a tractor to flat-out flying. I hope this helps a few different threads on this subject.

 

[brock]

The flashing N light is just due to conflict issues between the 08 bike and the new 09 on ECU, dont worry about the light.

In full power mode?

You have replaced the Water Temp sender?
That would be my first point to check as it is very suspect part for erratic running.

Stick the bike in iBEAT, start a log file and adjust the tickover untill the spark advance (blue line) is at its smoothest then tune CO from there.

You say the pump isn't purging?
Try a pump from another bike, just stick the complete tank on and ride it (easier than swapping pumps) if it is OK warranty the pump, it isn't the first to fail!
I've had a new pump on mine!
Brock, UK

 

[Pepstar]

Thanks for the advise guys, but it seems all to complicated.
I am just a chick riding a dirtbike and I dont have any Ibeat or commander software... Even if I did I wouldn't know how to use it. Shouldn't the dealers know about this and be able to fix it? I just want to take it to the shop, get it fixed and ride the thing!

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

any detailed description of how to do something "sounds" complicated... actually most discussion here has been about the newtral light- yet no one knows for sure if you have the ECU from the 08 250 or the 09 310- if its from the 08 250 then you have an fault code and should take it bake to the dealer to determine what the fault is... If you have the 09 310 ECU then the blinking newtral light is due to the incompatability of the 09 ECU and the 08 Speedo.

You said "I was told a while ago that there was a problem with my neutral sensor. I don't know weather this is acutally true or not or if it is actually trying to show a fault."- Yet your dealer did not find a fault code... If this gear indicator is bad I suggested fixing it. I do not know that the ECU does not use this info and could cause you problems- whether fueling map or ignition map-

also you said: - kill switch is sticking sometimes and doesnt fully realease out, but pump is still purging.


To me- these things may not be the problems but are little hints that they may be the problem or cause a problem at some point- I'd fix them.

Could be you are need readjustment of Ibeat- further tweaking-

Yes a dealer "should" be able to sort your problems out. Make sure they know everything you know and believe you are not just making a "rider error". The dealer should also be able to tell you what ecu have when they hook your bike up to Ibeat. If you don't have the clutch safety start switch properly disconnected- have them do that too- can cause intermittant problems. Its a standard mod.

Good Luck