• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE310 Bogging

H

Huskyyyyy

Husqvarna
A Class
2011 model*

On a quick acceleration from idle, the bike bogs. Will sometimes cut out when given a handful of throttle. Issue gets better (ish) when warm.

Work i’ve done/had done
- TPS set by Husqvarna (iBeat identified a fault and it was cleared)
- New cycleworks fuel pump
- Changed over identical coolant temp sensor from a 510, still no change. Disconnected the plug of the CTS and no change either
- Head gasket
- New fuel

Husqvarna couldn’t seem to fix the issue without needing to trial and error with new parts (which I wasn’t too keen at the idea). They said the injector seemed fine and had a good spray pattern.

Anyone have an idea what this could be. Really frustrated at this point in time

Also, whilst today riding, the bike would become progressively harder to start as it got hot. It developed to a stage where I was unable to start it and the bike would sputter on acceleration, not allowing me to rev out. Here is a like to a video of the bike running when hot.
View: https://youtu.be/_s-HhmCuV9w
 
New fuel filter is a must. Clean the injector (attach it backwards to the fuel hose and crank the motor). Check the spark plug/wiring. Check the intake boot for holes... go to a real mechanic, not the guessing one...
 
Thanks for your suggestions. R&D Husqvarna went through all the fuel tank wiring, inc fuel filter I presume, they also said the injector had a good spray pattern. The intake manifold is in great condition. Could it be an issue with the coil getting hot?
 
Bike has a brand new Cycleworks Fuel Pump installed a couple of weeks ago. Bike has only 2800km's (1700miles) and around 70 hours. Has probably sat for long periods, given it's 8 years old and only has that many hours/km's. I bought it about a couple of months ago and have been working to get it running well.
 
Also check all electric connection points and clean them with electric cleaner, had similar problems and cleaned all connectors and greased them and got rid off all bogging and missfire problems.
 
Ok with the tank off, i'll take apart all the connectors. Would CRC silicon spray work sufficiently? Or should I get some grease? Thanks
 
Listening to the video it sounds like the revs don't increase with wide open throttle. Did you replace the fuel filter? It could be clogged and restricting fuel flow.
Check the stats on iBeat when opening the throttle. The pulse width of the fuel injector should increase and the manifold pressure should reduce.
It's hard to tell whether it's too rich or starving of fuel.
 
Just ordered a new fuel filter, will take a couple of weeks to come. I don't have access to iBeat myself, but the Husqvarna dealer ran it through (assuming he knows what he is doing). Once I have the new filter installed, i'm going to run the bike with another coil off a TE510 2009 which works and has the same part number, and see if this fixes my issues (both the bogging, and sputtering when hot).
 
To me it sounds waaaay rich. Quiet too.

Is the airbox plug out of the airbox? Is the muffler plug out?

is the resistor in the o2 sensor plug?
 
Not sure what you mean by the airbox/muffler plug, I haven't removed anything from the airbox/muffler myself. Not sure what the resistor in the O2 sensor is either. Bike is stock.
 
Huskyyyyy said:
My old bike was a 2009, I have a 2011 at the moment. Do I need to uncork mine?
Click to expand...

Yes!

There is a plug in the muffler that has to be removed.
A huge plastic "pan" behind the airfilter that has to be removed.....and
A resistor plug that you are supposed to insert into the O2 sensor connector after you remove it from the header pipe and plug that hole with a metal plug.
Remove the CAT in between the muffler and the header pipe.

If the bike still has an O2 sensor in the header it has not been un-corked.

The 2 stroke in the background makes it hard to hear but it sounds all plugged up to me.
 
I assume that has all been done by the previous owner, as he didn’t have this issue with it in the early stages. It doesn’t always sound “plugged” up, it only starts to sputter when it’s hot, as shown in the video. It seems a new fuel filter has not fixed the bogging issue either.

Really not sure what else I can do at this point in time.
 
UPDATE:
I test ran it today with a new fuel filter, and a working TE510 ignition coil (which is the same unit just with a different spark plug connector), and still there was no difference. Same story, bogging and running poorly, then eventually sputtering when hot (like the video), and becoming almost impossible to start (even using the hot start lever).

Not sure if this has any relation, but I noticed that when revved, pressure was coming backwards and pushing/jolting the throttle body backwards. The intake manifold has been pushed 5mm off where it is intended to seat upon the cylinder.

What else can I try? Any suggestions?
 
I've had intake manifold issues as well. If your intake manifold has pushed off that will cause drama's (most likely due to a backfire). Push the throttle body back onto the cylinder flange and see how it runs. The other cause of manifold failure apart from delamination is backfiring due to insufficient intake valve clearance (intake valves worn out). The engine power stroke gases go back through the non sealing intake valve(s) and literally blow the throttle body off the engine.

Those intake manifolds are crap. I replaced mine 3 times in 6 years. The first time it failed it made the engine run at maximum revs with no throttle input. I was going up a gnarly hill and used the rear brake and clutch to modulate the power coz I wasn't stopping. I thought a throttle cable had jammed. Anyway, once at the top of the hill I saw the throttle body completely separated from the engine. I pushed the manifold back on towards the engine and held it in place with zip ties to get home. It's odd because the ECU would sense no intake vacuum (Wide open throttle ) but 0% throttle from the TPS but I didn't write the ECU software.

I now ride a 2 stroke...
 
Huskyyyyy said:
UPDATE:
I test ran it today with a new fuel filter, and a working TE510 ignition coil (which is the same unit just with a different spark plug connector), and still there was no difference. Same story, bogging and running poorly, then eventually sputtering when hot (like the video), and becoming almost impossible to start (even using the hot start lever).

Not sure if this has any relation, but I noticed that when revved, pressure was coming backwards and pushing/jolting the throttle body backwards. The intake manifold has been pushed 5mm off where it is intended to seat upon the cylinder.

What else can I try? Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

What......?
The throttle body is being pushed off the intake manifold? That is not right. Check the valve clearance and the valve timing too as the guy above suggests. TB should not be blowing off the motor!

BTW, I had a modded 2000 Yamaha WR444 that started to run like crap after it warmed up. Backfired like crazy and the header pipe ran red like it was lean. i swapped out everything, adjusted valves replaced stator, carb, kill ign switches etc. etc. In frustration I gave the bike away and the new owner swapped out the ECU and it ran perfect. Still running today and that bike was the most powerful dirt bike I ever rode. It would blur the landscape.
Stronger than KTM 525s of the same vintage.
 
Had the same problem myself! 2 weeks ago I bought a 2011 TE 250 full power up and had the dealer do a 12 hole injector and JD tuner before I picked it up. Ran good when I picked up, got it home and couldn't get it started. After 2 days and a lot of head scratching I noticed the throttle body wasn't seated correctly. So I adjusted it and clamped it down (clamp was as tight as it would go) and I got it started pretty easily, started to take it for a spin and it stalled. Looked down and low and behold TB was off again. Dealer sent me some new clamps that I could crank down tighter and haven't had a problem since. Still trying to get it dialed in because it has some bog in low RPM and I have a flat spot in low RPM's. Have a iBeat cable on the way gonna try playing with CO settings and see if I can tune it out. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Husky Throttle Body.jpg
 
iakovos1 said:
Had the same problem myself! 2 weeks ago I bought a 2011 TE 250 full power up and had the dealer do a 12 hole injector and JD tuner before I picked it up. Ran good when I picked up, got it home and couldn't get it started. After 2 days and a lot of head scratching I noticed the throttle body wasn't seated correctly. So I adjusted it and clamped it down (clamp was as tight as it would go) and I got it started pretty easily, started to take it for a spin and it stalled. Looked down and low and behold TB was off again. Dealer sent me some new clamps that I could crank down tighter and haven't had a problem since. Still trying to get it dialed in because it has some bog in low RPM and I have a flat spot in low RPM's. Have a iBeat cable on the way gonna try playing with CO settings and see if I can tune it out. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
View attachment 94269
Click to expand...
I don't know if that's a "before" or "after" picture... but, yeah, that TB doesn't quiet look like it's on.

I do not like those euro-style clamps (like on your airboot) either. BTW, I am assuming you're loosening the airboot and then install/tightening the intake boot/manifold.

For those of you who were curious, the plug in the exhaust header is where the Oxygen sensor would go.
 
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