• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

  • 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Austria - About 2014 & Newer
     TE = 2st Enduro & TC = 2st Cross

TE/TC TE300 14-16 Tech Data Jetting charts

Everyone goes nuts with jetting set ups, I still believe in the OEM data. as long as the baseline is the same. They based their data on their parameters temp altitudes, fuel, mixture with tested sponsor oil in 2014 case BelRay 2T.
I'm thinking that with the airbox/subframe updates (better breathing) in the newer models I can work with my jetting, now that I popped the holes in the side cover.
Long to explain but the 15-16 use N8 needles my 14 uses N4 needles-- so there is difference right there. I just went back to the "industry" OEM KTM husky 300 standard 35P from a 38P, still using the 162M for my temp/altitude. By looking in the parts catalog I see almost the same P/L for 15-16 in the needle choices. the P and M choices are of course the same across the board. Also I'm going to my old standard of 2% mixture (50:1), if you notice the actual OEM standard baseline is at 60:1 mix rich mix cooler combustion chamber temps, but I will stick with 50:1 (from 40:1). The only baseline I will be missing due to my lack of motivation is having the PV fully clean* and verifying the reeds.

when I was very motivated before the 4 stroke era, I would pull my cylinder @ 1 time per 2 months of racing/riding and clean up the PV and put on all new seals, and throw rings on if it was needed.
 
I find it odd that we are soooo far off on the main according to the chart..... My brother is at 35/165 going to a 162 next.....
 
thanks that's the 15 right? wow those N8 needles must be way fatter in width (leaner) than the 2014 N4 series my main for 2500-5k ft is a 162 and that's what ive been using for a while now.
my current box is 2, 35, N4DK3, 162 the same setting on the 15 is 2, 35, N8RH-2, 172
 
That's a 16.... So we are running close to the same..... we have the n4dk not sure about the 3 part.... still has a little flat spot up top.... might have to get that needle...
 
That book was written by a college intern geek, i wouldnt trust it for accuracy! Main too rich, pilot needs richer and needle needs taper to clean up
 
The jetting chart seems to be aimed at flat out MX style racing, where the jetting is kept rich to keep things cool, and not have seize ups. The down side of this, is it makes the bikes sputtery and blubbery low down, causing snatchy on/off power delivery and they drink loads of fuel and spooge from the exhaust.
For trail riding and technical enduro, the jetting can be significantly leaned off all round, seriously improving bottom end smoothness, fuel consumption, and stopping spooge. This is totally reliable, and proved by piston wear after way above recommended hours.
These 2 strokes are so sensitive to jetting, that it's impossible to state what jetting works for a particular bike, they are all different. Start rich, then lean off one step at a time.
 
I agree. I use JD jet kit to help eliminate alot of testing i guess. He recommends 38pj and 162mj and red4th for 0-3000 in summer.
 
How
Tetley said:
The jetting chart seems to be aimed at flat out MX style racing, where the jetting is kept rich to keep things cool, and not have seize ups. The down side of this, is it makes the bikes sputtery and blubbery low down, causing snatchy on/off power delivery and they drink loads of fuel and spooge from the exhaust.
For trail riding and technical enduro, the jetting can be significantly leaned off all round, seriously improving bottom end smoothness, fuel consumption, and stopping spooge. This is totally reliable, and proved by piston wear after way above recommended hours.
These 2 strokes are so sensitive to jetting, that it's impossible to state what jetting works for a particular bike, they are all different. Start rich, then lean off one step at a time.
Click to expand...
do you test each curcuit to dial in and clean up,plug chop?
 
Presently im still dealing with detonation, im down to 1.5 on air screw, its helping. If it diesnt stop i will try miving clip up one because its happening in this curcuit. Lastly i will mix race gas in 25%
 
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