• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE250 Redemtion

R

R_Little

Husqvarna
Pro Class
Well, for those who have been following my TE250 saga...it appears all is well that ends well.

I had the usual poor low end performance and hot starter issues. I had the starter ring gear changed and while it was a bit noisy it seemed a little better. Anyway sortly therafter the bike started running progressively worse.

When adjusting one barely tight intake valve and one barely loose exhaust valve a screw on the cam cap let go....of comes the head for a my 1st helicoil...took a while but went in straight as an arrow and I made up some longer screws for the caps and put the head back on the coppercoated head gasket.

Pull it out to start it and no go......crank crank kick kick..nutin'.

Check the flywheel that was recently replaced and find the woodfuff key sheared...my spare crank has a 1/2 sheared key too.

Use my extra flywheel, lap it and install it with Loctite 609....notice some bolts on the factory assembly seem too tight, others too loose.

Reassemble bike with a new iridium plug and it starts 2nd kick and sounds perfect...starter works great and sounds nice and tight.

I noticed the blue dash light flashed a bit on off throttle when I rode it with the headlight disconncted but it stopped after I plugged the light back in. I guess the voltage peaked a bit when I rolled off the throttle without the headlight load.

Set the TPS back to stock....starts instantly. Still a little low on power down low but pulls from idle without a hiccup. midrange is strong.

Wish me luck. I hope the starter holds up when the motor gets hot!
 
Excellent! Good luck!

BTW, what do you mean by stock TPS? Is their a factory TPS setting besides "calibrated"?
 
I was playing with TPS to address a low rpm stutter. Had about 102.6 stock. Went down to 100.8 but idle was all over the place. Just put put it back almost to stock. It is 102.1 @ 983mv now.
 
I remember reading your initial post two days after I bought my TE 250 and it left a lump in my throat! I never let mechanics touch my bikes but I think i'm going to take it to the nearest dealer (about 250 km from home) and let them do the valve check/adjustment so they can deal with a sheared bolt should it happen. Luckily for me, in Indonesia it's common to watch as work is being done on your bike (or you may end up with OEM parts being replaced with cheap Chinese stuff) so I'll be able to ensure that they do it right and use a torque wrench when putting it all back together.
 
I took it to the dealer in a weak moment...he swore he had a starter fix they would warrantee. LOL!

Anyway, my valve cap bolts were like 12nm tight from the factory. I would not tighten them beyond 6nm when you replace them.....maybe a bit less.

The good news is the valves tend to stay in spec for a long time..if they were set right at the factory!
 
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