• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE250 2011 WON'T START PLS HELP!!!

jetmani

Husqvarna
AA Class
Hi guys,
So this is the story,

My bike was getting harder and harder to start so I took it to my mechanic, he said the valves are out of adjustment and you will soon need new ones. I bought 4 new valves at a cost of $800
he was too busy to fit them so i used another bike repair shop, they fitted new valves and seals and said the old ones weren't that bad and your first mechanic has misdiagnosed the problem.
Anyway I got the bike home got it going and attempted to ride around the block, during that short ride the bike just cut out and I restarted it again, it did this twice. I rode back home and put it back in the shed. Today I tried to start the bike but now it won't start, it almost started a couple of times but popped and backfired, the motor turns over but now it just won't fire.
 
Check to make sure your are getting...
1. Bright Blue spark at the spark plug.
2. You are getting good fuel flow.

Paw Paw
 
Paw Paw is right, fuel and spark are the two basic areas to start troubleshooting. Other areas include a dirty air cleaner or spark arrestor. If all that stuff checks out then there may be an issue in the ignition or valve timing. Problems with these newer bikes can go even deeper into the ECU or one of the many sensors. Even an electrical short in the wiring can develop if the wire looms have been messed with.
 
Check to make sure your are getting...
1. Bright Blue spark at the spark plug.
2. You are getting good fuel flow.

Paw Paw

Thanks for your replies,
I checked spark during the day , I saw a strong yellow spark.
Next I will pull out injector and check that.
 
A "strong yellow spark" is and indicator of a weak spark. The color of the spark should be bright Blue. A yellow spark indicates that you could have a poor ground, poor plug connection, bad coil or a few other things. A yellow spark normally will not fire the spark plug under compression load.
Have you done an OHMs test of the ignition coil? If so, what were the readings?

Paw Paw
 
A "strong yellow spark" is and indicator of a weak spark. The color of the spark should be bright Blue. A yellow spark indicates that you could have a poor ground, poor plug connection, bad coil or a few other things. A yellow spark normally will not fire the spark plug under compression load.
Have you done an OHMs test of the ignition coil? If so, what were the readings?

Paw Paw

Thanks Paw Paw I will check that out tomorrow.
 
I got one of the guy's at work to check the coil who used to be a mechanic, he said Primary is 4.9 OHMs , Secondary is 19.5 K OHMs.
He took the spark plug cap off and tested that which he said has no reading or open circuit.
So it sounds like it's a faulty cap?
Does anyone have an alternative to a Genuine Husky CAP?
Over here in Aus $87.00
 
The OHMs reading on the primary side of the coil may be too low and the secondary reading seems too high. I don't know the spec's for that unit, but in general if that reading is too low the coil will not generate a good spark as it reduces the current build up time in the coil to a point where it is weak. In most cases you want a reading in excess of 10 on the primary and then a reading much below 10 on the secondary in order to have a good strong Blue spark. If the spark is weak, as in a yellow spark, the engine compression will not allow it to jump the spark plug electrode to create the spark.
I would see if you can find the spec's for your unit to be sure. Check your coil mounts for dirt and or rust and correct as needed. A bad ground is also a suspect.

Paw Paw
 
BTW, The fuel pump is priming? You can hear it buzzing, right?

I have an extra coil and plug cap for that bike.

Make sure the kill button and other contacts are clean.
If the bike has been ridden in the wet it's a good idea to clean all the connections.
Swap out the fuses too.

Cost nothing to do.
 
Yes fuel pump is priming/buzzing.
I checked the spark plug spark in the dark, it's definately a white spark not blue or purple.
Coil seems to be OK according to Husky specs in their manual.
 
White spark is not good. You need a very bright Blue spark.
I don't know the factory spec's for your coil, but again the numbers seem to be incorrect in general.

Paw Paw
 
A sheared key puts the ignition out of time.

A another symptom maybe kickback when you kick the bike over.

Pretty popular problem actually.
 
I ended up taking it to a bike shop where they know what they are doing, the issue was the timing was out
thanks for all of your advice
 
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