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Hi everyone,
As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.
When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.
Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.
Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.
Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.
Thanks for your patience and support!
TE250 2011 REAR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
- Thread starter jetmani
- Start date
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
...and if it doesn't, the problem is somewhere else. check the bulb or LED.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
well, the contacts can be cleaned at least.
have you confirmed that your problem is the pressure activated switch? put an ohm meter on the switch leads and watch it approach zero ohms (probably more like 1-2 ohms though) when you hit the brake pedal (bike off, brake wiring unplugged from the switch). did you do the other test in the post above?
I think those switches are cheap; might even be the same as the one on your clutch master.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
sounds like your switch is broken if it failed the ohm test; I am assuming your rear brake itself stops you fine.
a new switch install will require some brake fluid, a small amount of bleeding, and a medium size mess.
here is another option you might consider: run without a working rear brake light switch. On my 310, I have disconnected the rear brake light switch. This give me the option of braking without activating the very bright LED brake light (cops, guys on the trail behind you- that sucker is bright). Normal 2 wheel braking activates the light via the front brake.
food for thought.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
hmmm. my bike takes a #8000 94849 Switch, R Brake Light $14.99USD
...and I realize the dollar is strong, but- sheesh.... not that strong. somebody down under is making some money.
OTOH, the clutch safety switch (#8000 H5963) is $33.50USD -and the both should operate the same way (normally open) meaning they might be exchangeable (wiring connection is different). So I don't know what's going on with the price.
if you have your heart set on a rear brake light, you can get one of those cheasy, cheap spring-actuated switches, probably pretty cheap, if you don't want to pay the full price.
Trenchcoat85
Husqvarna
Pro Class
I use Bill's (BMP- a famous husky dealer on the west coast). Fantastic service. I do not know if they do overseas shipping though.
here's my standard cut 'n paste:
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BMP- a Cafe Husky sponsor
Give 'em a call (503) 585-1153 or toll-free 888-806-1153
email: bmp@teleport.com
http://billshusky.com/
Bill's Motorcycles Plus
1122 12th St SE,
Salem, OR 97302
Ask for Bill, Bryon, Jon or Jonathan (IIRC- seems like I'm missing somebody)
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Most of the bigger online retailer's (here in the US) have OEM parts too; and I believe they all ship worldwide.
