• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE run in period?

sidquick

Husqvarna
B Class
Just wondering how you fellow's like to run in your bikes ? I usualy go nothing over 1/4 throttle 1st tank, nothing over 1/2 throttle 2nd tank, nothing over 3/4 3rd tank, then on the fourth tank just take her easy, then I consider her run in? this sound about right for a te 250?

Oh and sorry for my Australian language I shall adopt proper english ettiquet for this forum, shall be challenging no-one can proof read because we all talk the same lol.

Cheers Sid
 
under 5-6000 rpm for the first 600 mi (1000K).

Try and change out factory oil and filter before 100 mi (50-75) and replace with good motorcycle specific petroleum base oil 20-50 then change at 200 and 400. Do the power up at 600 and change over to semi-synthetic 20-50 motorcycle specific oil.

This is as per George @ Uptite Husqvarna who's raced and fixed these bikes since the 60's. I think my bike runs pretty good having done it this way and no quirks.
 
Under 5-6000 rpm for the first 50 mi then change the oil and filter. Then ride it like you will any other time. I broke my 09 SM510 in on the track...15 laps easy...1/2 throttle. Came in and changed the oil and filters and then let it rip for the rest of the day!

I have broken in many a sport bike the same way and ALL of my bikes have been in the top 5% in power output.
 
I'm not too formal about break in. Some easy trail riding and mild low speed street, then at 250 miles I changed the filter and oil and rode the bike a little harder and then did another oil and filter change at 500 miles. I don't often ride any of my motorcycles too hard anyway.:D
 
glangston;51233 said:
under 5-6000 rpm for the first 600 mi (1000K).

Try and change out factory oil and filter before 100 mi (50-75) and replace with good motorcycle specific petroleum base oil 20-50 then change at 200 and 400. Do the power up at 600 and change over to semi-synthetic 20-50 motorcycle specific oil.

This is as per George @ Uptite Husqvarna who's raced and fixed these bikes since the 60's. I think my bike runs pretty good having done it this way and no quirks.

Followed this routine with the exception of installing the power up kit at zero miles. Left the throttle block in for the first 600 miles however to prevent any temptations. 7800 miles now and the engine has yet to require any valve lash adjustment.
 
Fast1;51249 said:
7800 miles now and the engine has yet to require any valve lash adjustment.
Wow, that's great. I have close to 5000 miles on my 07 TE450 and have inspected the valve lash twice already with no adjustments necessary. I hope mine goes that long without an adjustment too.:thumbsup:
 
Clearly everyone has views that work fine for them. However, I think we can overdo the run in period for modern hi tech bikes that are made with such tight tolerances. I ran my conservatively for 100 k's, changed the oil to Motul semi synthetic 10-50 and off I went. As a trail rider it was never really thrashed hard and as a consequence 2700 km's later she is running sweet and no mechanical issues to date (touch wood).For Aussie conditions the 10-50 or 10-60 if you ever see it are best.
 
Thanks guys, I forgot to say I change the filters and oil after the first tank. Then 3rd tank do all the clearances change the oil coolant and grease up all the suspension points and wheel bearings. Spose I'd check them again after 800k.
As my very wise Grandad would say "be patient run an engine in itl last for years if not youl be lucky for it to last a year"
cheers
sid
 
WMRRA063;51240 said:
Under 5-6000 rpm for the first 50 mi then change the oil and filter. Then ride it like you will any other time. I broke my 09 SM510 in on the track...15 laps easy...1/2 throttle. Came in and changed the oil and filters and then let it rip for the rest of the day!

I have broken in many a sport bike the same way and ALL of my bikes have been in the top 5% in power output.

Bingo!

These bikes are built tough and for selfish reasons, who wants to waste 600 miles putting around? I still only have 300 miles on mine after 3 months. At that rate I would be "race ready" by July or so next year.
 
I go easy on the bike for the first 50 miles or so and call it good. No full throttle or riding in too tall a gear lugging the engine. I'll change the oil after the first 50 miles as well.

NC
 
Yea ive read so many different things about break-in's i dont think its a big deal. I think the main thing is to change the oil after about 50 miles. There is always this article to take into consideration.

It makes sense to me

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Ive heard some manufactures break their engines in at the factory not sure if its true.
 
I heard that all of the Husky's are fired and run at the factory prior to shipping. Maybe someone can confirm it there are just started to make sure they run or are do they do a full dyno run?
 
Dirtdame;51737 said:
I think that all motors at all factories have to be test run, if only for a few moments.:excuseme:

I guess my point is that if it is test fired at the factory and run up on a dyno, that motor is already broken in. Why would someone try and baby a new bike along if it has already done a full load dyno run to max RPM? The real question is how do they run the motors at the factory, if at all?
 
I just do a couple warm up and cool down cycles for the first hour. Then cruise around for ten to fifteen miles to loosen things up. After that I just gradually increase the speed and rpm as I ride. On the second ride (after 50-75mi)I let it rip.Think about it, when you put a whole new top end in you don't baby the thing for 200 miles.
 
jaro51;51730 said:
I heard that all of the Husky's are fired and run at the factory prior to shipping. Maybe someone can confirm it there are just started to make sure they run or are do they do a full dyno run?

Some big, sorta fat guy fires them up and rides them to the crating area....that's what George said. Guess if they don't make that they don't ship it.:D
 
Jrmobb;51685 said:
Yea ive read so many different things about break-in's i dont think its a big deal. I think the main thing is to change the oil after about 50 miles. There is always this article to take into consideration.

It makes sense to me

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Ive heard some manufactures break their engines in at the factory not sure if its true.

I've used this method on my last 2 new bikes. It's really the only way to go. Breaking 'em in slow is only going to guarantee you slightly reduced horsepower for the life of the top end. It also doesn't give the bike any longer engine life than doing it the fast way. Besides, it just takes way tooo long. Who wants to spend 8 grand on a toy only to have to spend the first 20 hours babying it for no proven benefit?
None of the pro racers spend hours & hours breaking in a bike using the slow method. Why should we?

Slowpoke (2007 TE250, 290 hours & counting)
 
How anyone could ride around at 1/4 throttle for the first 500 miles is beyond me. Does anyone really think the manufacturing process requires this tedious break-in? I work on aircraft. When we replace an APU or a air cycle unit which spin at 50,000 RPM's there is no break in, same for the 10 million dollar engines. After the first hour of running it's all over. Change the oil often and let it warm up good before you ride.
 
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