• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE-510 leaking intake boot

L

linkandcuff

Husqvarna
A Class
I have a 2006 TE-510.

I was putting my studded tires on and decided to start it up and let it warm up to make sure its ready for tomorrow. While idling with the choke on i was checking things out and noticed that if i touched the carb it would idle up like a intake vacuum leak and i noticed if i pushed the carb towards the intake boot the idle would lower. So the boot isnt sealing properly on the cylinder head. Its like the carb is too far away from it and is pulling on it. The intake boot is less then one year old and in great shape. I feel like there should be metal in the boot to help it seat better. I'll look more into it later but has anyone else noticed this problem??
 
I had the same problem. I had to replace the Union 8000 A578 that goes between the Carb and the Cylinder. The Rubber Delaminates from the Aluminum and causes an air leak. Take the Union off and start pulling on it and you will see the rubber pulling away. This is a common problem. The Union needs to be replaced every 3-5 years based on how much you ride.
 
My boot split on the transition where it meets the head. I guess it is the fatigue caused by the throttle body/carb bouncing around unsupported.

I was able to see a clear crack form along the top of the mouth of the join, I just glued it closed.

Not sure if mine was even letting any air in but if the bike had a carb im sure that this crack would minimise airflow (past the carb) where it is needed to pull the fuel through.

Maybe have a closer look and make sure the boot is sealing.
 
Does the bike do the same thing without the choke on? If not then it may be a loose rod on the choke lever?
 
yea it does it on idle as well. I can easly apply pressue to pull the carb away from the engine to make the leak worse. I have some zip ties to pull the carb closer to the engine to apply pressure to the intake boot to prevent a leak. I think i'm going to losen the engine mount bolts and see if i can move the engine towards the carb to help it and also check the air filter box and see if i can move it closer to the carb.
 
Mine had surface crack lines all over, not deep crack but it was giving me bike starting and water riding problems. I cut a section off a bicycle inner tire tube and used it to wrab around the manifold. That stop the leak for a few rides untill the inner tube broke. I will replace the manifold with a new one but the inner tube idea could work well if you can make it last.
 
My local Husqvarna dealer wanted(wants) $140 AUD for that boot! Expecting it to cost $10-$20 I told them to shove it somewhere, somewhere very bad :censored:.

Think of a scenario where the leak you have was theoretically in the same place as mine -If you pull the carb away from the motor (presumably making the hole bigger) you would expect more air to "bypass" the carb making the bike run leaner, so hypothetically you would expect the bike to rev slightly fatser being in a lean condition.

It really does sound like you have a crack or a poor seal in that head boot - Maybe remove it completely and examine it.

Triple-M: Dont know what you would do once it completely snapped.. But good quailty super glue has withstood a few thousand kilometres for me :)
 
linkandcuff said:
The boot is only one year old and in brand new condition when i took it off to see what might ber the problem.
Click to expand...
My new intake manifold lasted less then 3 mths, when I found a 1cm opening. Just got a 2nd new one that I hope will last. Just sharing my experience.
Btw, suggestion on sealing a manifold opening anyone?
 
I think if this is a commom problem than the intake boot should have a metal ring coated in the rubber where it bolts to the cylinder head to make sure its a good seal.
Hopefully i'll have time late this week to see if i can shift the motor or air box to make the two closer together which would fix the problem
 
Timely thread... I just got a misfire and found that the intake boot was sucking wind. It's been on the bike just over a year because the previous one failed too. This one isn't just split, it's completely rotten. Aaaaaaarrrrrghhhh! :lol:

You gotta laugh, but why did it have to happen just before the weekend?!!
 
7point62 said:
Timely thread... I just got a misfire and found that the intake boot was sucking wind. It's been on the bike just over a year because the previous one failed too. This one isn't just split, it's completely rotten. Aaaaaaarrrrrghhhh! :lol:

You gotta laugh, but why did it have to happen just before the weekend?!!
Click to expand...
Glue
 
2010 TE 450, manufactured in Sep 2009, 1 year of real service, 6500 miles, mine died on a ride on Jan 27, I taped it shut and rode home. I applied hi-temp silicone on the 2 surfaces shown, the 2 surfaces do not touch the air stream of the intake, and pressed it back together, put 2 C-clamps on it for 6 hours, installed it, let it sit overnight. I rode it again the next day, no problems. I've ordered a new one for $70USD, but I may put that one in my kitbox, and leave this repaired one on the bike.

If yours is undamaged where the intake air flows through the rubber tunnel, I would repair it with hi-temp silicone.

If yours has any damage/rot to the actual tunnel that the air stream touches, I'd replace it.


HuskyIntake3.jpg
 
I wasn't gonna post this pic, but what the hell, I've got so much other stuff on my Husky kludged up, this fits right in.

I wanted to assure that if the boot separated from the metal flange again, that at least it would all stay in place and not go walking around, opening up huge openings to the intake, so I tied the throttle body to the head, snug but not too tight, it DOES reduce the amount of bouncing around that the throttle body does, from the vibes of the engine, and I am seriously considering leaving this tie-job on the bike, after having read so many others tales of woe on their boots.

HuskyIntakeTied.jpg
 
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