• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TE 449 cutting out at high RPMs

shadetreeYT

Husqvarna
B Class
Hey guys, I've been searching the best I could through old threads but I couldn't really find anyone who had the same problem I'm having right now. I have a 2013 TE449 with about 2 thousand Kms on it. So far I've removed the small baffle in the exhaust, replaced the spark plug with an iridium job and put the jumper in to have the bike run on race map II.

The problem came out of nowhere, the bike starts and idles just fine. And in neutral it revs through the range just fine. But when riding the bike it will cut out seemingly at random when accelerating. It holds speed just fine though. Sometimes it will only sputter and cough then resume acceleration, sometimes it will die completely and need to be restarted. Sometimes it will accelerate cleanly through first and second and not try to die till accelerating through third... Other times it will do it right off the bat in first gear as soon as I try to start going. I have reset the TPS already. It does have the original battery in it, but it starts the bike just fine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have the bike at my local motorcycle shop but they're pretty flummoxed. My next option is to take it to the closest husqvarna dealer which is almost 100 mile drive... I'd like to avoid that if I could haha. Thanks guys!
 
Take a very close look at coil plug wires. Mine did a lot of things you are talking about and that was the problem. Mine were breaking right at the plug but have seen people say the ground was breaking where it mounts to the jug. On mine the putter caseing of the wire looked fine but it was broke on the inside.
 
Take a very close look at coil plug wires. Mine did a lot of things you are talking about and that was the problem. Mine were breaking right at the plug but have seen people say the ground was breaking where it mounts to the jug. On mine the putter caseing of the wire looked fine but it was broke on the inside.

Thanks man, I'm gonna check that out as soon as I get to the shop tomorrow. I appreciate the advice greatly!
 
If it is that let me know i found the plug with pigtails and connectors at napa for like 35 bucks. I will find the part # for you it took the guy and myself like 30 looking though the computer and books looking for it.
 
If it is that let me know i found the plug with pigtails and connectors at napa for like 35 bucks. I will find the part # for you it took the guy and myself like 30 looking though the computer and books looking for it.
That's super awesome of you brother! I will for sure take you up on that offer if it ends up being the case... I really hope it's something that simple
 
Was it running well before changing the spark plug? I put an iridium plug in my TE449 and for some reason it ran like crap. It wont rev up without dying. The plug is a CR9EIX and the gap was spot on so it should work. Not sure why the plug screws it up. Makes me wonder if a different CR9EIX plug would do the same.

You could try putting the factory plug back in. I would be surprised if I am the only person with issues with the iridium plug.
 
Was it running well before changing the spark plug? I put an iridium plug in my TE449 and for some reason it ran like crap. It wont rev up without dying. The plug is a CR9EIX and the gap was spot on so it should work. Not sure why the plug screws it up. Makes me wonder if a different CR9EIX plug would do the same.

You could try putting the factory plug back in. I would be surprised if I am the only person with issues with the iridium plug.
It was running great with it in... The issue came on all at once. It wasn't a gradual degradation.
 
Have you had the actual fuel injector back flushed professionally or replace it outright. If it isn't the coil wire pigtail or a short somewhere else.
 
Check the coil ground and reroute to the frame. Try swapping back to the original plug and see if it goes away. A new plug can certainly have a manufacturing defect or it could have been dropped before you got it.

If the plug isn't the cause you need to go through the wire loom and check all connections and relays including the battery connection.

I went on a ride recently with one of the guys on a 310 that starting cutting out at weird times. Then it stopped and ran fine for a good 80/90 miles, then it started to not want to run at all. Turns out a crash earlier in the day had broken the battery loose and one of the connectors was messed up. It got a 10 mile tow back to the truck.
 
"Huskynoobee" is right about the plug being possibly dropped.

The FAAs - "Federal Aviation Regulations"-(FARs) requires any spark plug to be discarded if it ever hits the ground from an accidental drop. Regardless of age, use or the circumstance or even if inspected to be visually good and serviceable or electrically tested with a stream of air pressure against it while being jolted in an electrical sparkplug test stand machine. Even if it was still brand new packed in the box.

You Install it, you get written up. PERIOD! End of story whether it's tested good or not.

Re-install the old one or an equivalent and start looking at the wiring. Just do one thing at a time though. Test and re-test.
 
I could be plug/spark related, but I'd be more inclined to think it's fuel related.
Sounds like the more load is on the engine, the worse it runs. As stated above, check the easy things like swapping back to the original plug and coil wires.
Next port of call might be fuel pump filter/dirty injector from there.
 
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