• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 449/511 dies/attempt restart/cough and reset trip meter - IT'S the CLUTCH!

Bryce

Bryce

Husqvarna
A Class
So I have been having issues with the clutch on my 511 since the bike was new. "All of my dirtbikes try to spin the rear wheel with the clutch pulled, it's normal" is what I have heard from everyone I talk to about it. Bullshit. I have been having the issue where I pull up to a stoplight or a spot on a trail and fiddle around trying to find neutral while feathering the clutch to see if I have actually found it (which I never have) until the bike dies. I immediately try to restart and it just coughs, resets the trip meter and will barely even turn over if at all. I then put it in neutral and it starts right up. It did all this with the regular battery and the Earthx I recently purchased, no difference at all. I had my clutch lever adjusted pretty far out already and it was pulling just fine, but the other day I decided to take it all the way. I adjusted it all the way out to where it now rests with some pressure against my tusk handguard. FIXED, so far. It is adjusted out to the frickin moon now and the clutch pull is ridiculous, but it has fixed all of the stalling issues and I can find neutral whether stopped or going. I think when it died and I was trying to start it in gear before it was partially trying to turn over the transmission/rear wheel because the clutch was not fully engaged. This would overload the system and cause the trip meter to reset and not start the bike. It's really weird, because now I can pull the clutch half way in (all the way in before I adjusted it all the way out) for normal shifting, and it is more than enough to work. When I am stopped is another story. If I only pull it halfway, the rear wheel still wants to go a little bit like it did before. When I pull it all the way in it fully disengages and I get no more resistance, but it is a really long pull from halfway. I hope this helps some of you that have been having this issue. Like I said, it totally changes the feel of the clutch, but neutral is cake to find anytime and no more stalling, period.
 
Mine is adjusted all the way out also, really does not seem much of a reach, I have small hand. maybe an
Aftermarket lever with a different bend? A bike that sits for awhile will often drag or even be locked up until
Ran some, thick oil can also contribute, and of course adjustment. My WR is draggy when it sits for a couple of weeks,
So is my XR650, the 511 was, but after switching to the 0/40 and putting some miles on it, it is pretty good.
I had trouble finding neutral also for awhile on the TE, but as she broke in it is much better, especially after
She's good and warmed up. You may want to try a good bleeding on the clutch, I have had some luck in the past
With that. Hope you find a good result. The clutch interlock is a switch that prevents starting
without the clutch pulled in. It is located at your clutch lever.
 
The stock lever would not adjust far enough out. The Warp9 adjusts farther which is why it works. Have tried bleeding the clutch with no change. It was a bit better when warmed up vs cold, but only slightly. Has not changed any between 0 miles and now ~2200 miles. It works great now with the warp9 adjusted as far out as it will go, but it is definitely a long pull. I have never messed with the clutch interlock. The bike will not start with the clutch out, so it is still functioning.
 
Good to hear it was just an adjustment.

The clutches on the TE449/511 are a little different to most bikes in that there are mounted on the crank & not the input shaft to the gearbox.
The result is that it spins over faster than the clutches on other bikes which are geared down by the primary gears.
It also means it has more effect on the engine, in regards to drag, as the crank doesn't have the mechanical advantage of the primary gears before the clutch.
Mine is impossible to select neutral when the engine is cold, but much better warmed up, but still not perfect. It is the drag of the oil between the plates......
As I ride in fairly hot conditions, I use a 5w-40 synthetic oil, others here use a 0w-40 oil & I would think their clutches would be better as a result.
 
I readjusted the clutch on my TE449 to give maximum release. I have had no start, stall, trip reset, problems since. But it is still too early to say this is a cure but I will report back.
 
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