• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 310

Robbe144

Robbe144

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi and thank you for a really good forum!
This is my new (to me) Husky coming from a WR.

Do you have some tuning/setup tips for me, what works and not, please?
It seems to work pretty good over all but...
I have some problems with stalling, will check valve clearances, have ordered a rekluse.
It feels like riding a bull instead of the tiger like WR, but maybe that's just how 4st works:)

Thanks
image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
Maybe start with the suspension. Is is set up for you , your style of riding, your weight and type of terrain.
If the bike starts easily assume the valve clearance is ok.
On any new bike ignore previous owners claims and do an oil change, re-grease the swing arm and linkage and steering bearings.
Have a look at the brake and radiator fluids.
The stalling may be you still getting used to the stalling point of the bike.
 
Yes ok. I have had the suspension serviced and shimmed. When I bought it, it had a bling fork clamp and a raiser, handlebar in front position. I mounted stock clamp and no raiser, thought it would lighten things up a bit. Steering bearings ok. Oil change done. I'll grease the swing and linkage. When it stalls I have problems starting it (hot start, cold is ok), drains new battery. The "easiest" way to get it going again is to use the kick and halfway through press start button..
image.jpeg
 
my 09 TE510 was lean and easy to stall even with CO at 100.
I installed a JD Tuner and their map made a nice improvement all through rev range.
 
When hot give the "start button" a short press, this will make sure the fuel pump has been primed. Then hit the start button again. This should help.
 
Ok I'll try the primer trick.
My bike has a Keihin fuel system and is a "red head". I'm not there yet but it got me curious.. Since it also came with two silencers, one looks more open and one has a ~6' long spark arrester in it locked by a ring. Would I benefit from a tuner? Do I need to reset the existing system or just plug it in?
 
Robbe144 said:
In the register says it's made 2012/07 so maybe one of those early next year bikes..
Click to expand...

I can't read the VIN, but it's the 93rd TE.... that's pretty high for a '13 made in July 2012. OTOH, that's real low for a '12 made in July. Maybe it's country-specific but I thought all Euro's were the same (the USA/Canada is unique, so is Australia, maybe UK??)

it does have a red head (310r) like you said, which is '13 & '14 AFAIK. I believe '11 & '12's had Mukuni EFI also (and '10 TC250s) edit: hey, no key! only a FI idiot light.... that's gotta be a '13.

what's it say on the other side of the neck (steering head) by the regulator?

nice triple clamp. edit: I like that skid plate! any idea of the brand?
 
The 10th digit in the VIN is a "D" which means it's a model year 2013. congratulations. (keep an eye on the starter gears)
I think the "A301" means it's a Euro TE310r, but I'm not positive. (later: yep, page 2 of the 2013 parts manual).

http://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/frame_engine_id_list

also use the above site for parts and service manuals.

good luck.

ps- BTW, your regulator is starting to cut into your clutch cable slightly. keep an eye on it and protect it if it gets worse. The wire looms, too.
 
Ha! Thanks a lot for clarifying :) and for the tips.
Suspected that something wasn't right. When I left the suspension in for shimming the holy suspension man hummed and looked at the forks and was mentioning meo replica. I don't know, I just like husky and want to try 4st. Got it cheap even for a 2012 compared to the ktms here. Good that mistakes can go that way also...
 
Hi
Checked valve clearance today.. Intake left 0,10-0,15mm, intake right 0,15-0,20, exhaust left and right 0,25-0,30mm.
My feeler gauge has 0,05mm steps. The shims are 1,95-1,90mm intake side and 2,10-1,95mm exhaust side.
Could these clearances be part of the cause of hot start and stalling problems? My yet poor throttle/clutch handling would be the other part.. :)
 
Robbe144 said:
Hi
Checked valve clearance today.. Intake left 0,10-0,15mm, intake right 0,15-0,20, exhaust left and right 0,25-0,30mm.
My feeler gauge has 0,05mm steps. The shims are 1,95-1,90mm intake side and 2,10-1,95mm exhaust side.
Could these clearances be part of the cause of hot start and stalling problems? My yet poor throttle/clutch handling would be the other part.. :)
Click to expand...

Intakes ares 0.15mm and exhaust calls for 0.20mm- but IMO you don't want to be any looser then that (again, just my opinion). Especially on the exhaust side where the left valve also has the autodecompress on it; and a loose valve makes for harder starting.

I would tighten the exhaust by 0.10mm (2.20 and 2.05) [...to my fellow 'mericans: that would be tightening up from 0.012" by 0.004" ending up at 0.008" on the right exhaust, for example. these numbers are approximate but close- 'specially considering his feeler gauge only has 0.002" steps.] Measure your shims too- just to be sure.

do you use the cold start knob during hot starts? also, put the bike in neutral when starting. you may need a tiny-tiny-tiny bit of throttle during starting.

MorganD has a good point (I thought all Euro redheads came with the updated map. no?) and since he has TWO redheads and is in your country too... well, you can't beat that.

good luck
 
Ok thanks. :)
Can I somehow see if it's upgraded or not? Any hints who can help me with the upgrade? In the wsm CDI and ECU are the same, easy to reach now when I have it taken apart. :)
I will get the right shims and fix the clearances.
 
Robbe144 said:
Ok thanks. :)

Can I somehow see if it's upgraded or not? Any hints who can help me with the upgrade? In the wsm CDI and ECU are the same, easy to reach now when I have it taken apart. :)

I will get the right shims and fix the clearances.
Click to expand...



My 310R 2013 is made 2013/07 and the 2014 is made 2013/09. They have differdent CDI upgrades from the dealer. Bouth of them stalles some time but not much, the 2013
has a problem with missfireing when I releace the trottle. Otherwise it is OK. Speedstore in Gävle has the last update for this bike but when I called he wanted 1500 skr for an
upgrade and I had to get the bike to him. Since I only ride one bike at a time it is easier to change the CDI from my 2014 bike. What I can se from the pics your bike have
the closed chamber frontfork and different triclamp. The plastic is also from a Meo replica TE 250. :)
 
Thanks a lot!! Shot Halvards a mail for shims and a new spark plug.
I'll speak to speedstore tomorrow since I live in......... Gävle :)
 
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