TE 310 FI light coming on

[ChrisP]

2014 TE 310r. About 30 hours on it and until recently the bike has run flawlessly. Few weeks ago at the Hammer Run, the bike began to stumble and run rough between idle and 1/4 throttle. When the situation occurs, the FI light blinks at idle then stays on continuously when rpms are above idle. Runs fine above 1/4 throttle but light stays on.
If I shut down and restart, everything is normal for a few minutes then bike stumbles and light comes on again.
I changed fuel and ran it this weekend. All was well for 20 minutes then it began again.

I'm looking for ideas before I take it to the dealer. My dealer is 2 hour away and since it's an intermittent problem I fear he's not going to be very helpful.

 

[FreddyTE310R]

if I were you, you better ALWAYS get either Shell or BP premium, & stay away from the off-brand places: also, I ALWAYS use a mixture of 1/2 oz. Lucas ethanol stabilizer, and 1 oz. of marvel mystery oil: I got 4,500 miles on my 2013 TE310R, and no problems like that, at all. Just did my 2nd oil change at 3500 miles, of course, after the 600 mile break- in oil change, but that's it: nothing else.

 

[rovnca]

I have just bought the same bike with 20 hours. On my first ride after a qouite havy crash I have noticed my FI light has come on.
When the bike is ideling it blinks in the falloving patern: 1 long signal + 3 short ones
At rews above idel it lights constantly.

The bike starts and runs normaly.

Up until now I have recarged the batery - light still comes on
I have disconected the batery - the idea was to somehow reset FI sistem- light stil comes on

Now I am out of ideas.
What does FI light want to tell me?
Does anyone have a list of FI light signals and their meaning?
Is it possible that the crash I had caused the light to com on? It could be that it has come on earlyer and I didn`t noticed.
What should I check next?

My dealer is far away so I want to avoid taking bike to him if possible.

 

[Johnrg]

I'd check all connections such as to the fuel pump/rear of tank connection and coil/plug in case something got dislodged. Try running some techron or Chevron fuel. Then I guess would be time to check injector. In 3k miles I have not had an issue. I did install a Profil filter sock for reasons of lessening chance of particulate ingestion. Not saying it's the cause of your issues but an ounce of prevention... http://profill-australia.com/e-store/HOME.html

 

[everfree]

I'd check all connections such as to the fuel pump/rear of tank connection and coil/plug in case something got dislodged. Try running some techron or Chevron fuel. Then I guess would be time to check injector. In 3k miles I have not had an issue. I did install a Profil filter sock for reasons of lessening chance of particulate ingestion. Not saying it's the cause of your issues but an ounce of prevention... http://profill-australia.com/e-store/HOME.html

Thanks for the filter link, John. Looks like a good source.
I've been meaning to get some of these. An ounce of prevention..., as they say.
Looks like they have filters to fit both my 2012 310 and 2014 125 Huskys, so I just ordered two.

Ride safe.
Dave

 

[AndrewS]

2014 TE 310r. About 30 hours on it and until recently the bike has run flawlessly. Few weeks ago at the Hammer Run, the bike began to stumble and run rough between idle and 1/4 throttle. When the situation occurs, the FI light blinks at idle then stays on continuously when rpms are above idle. Runs fine above 1/4 throttle but light stays on.
If I shut down and restart, everything is normal for a few minutes then bike stumbles and light comes on again.
I changed fuel and ran it this weekend. All was well for 20 minutes then it began again.

I'm looking for ideas before I take it to the dealer. My dealer is 2 hour away and since it's an intermittent problem I fear he's not going to be very helpful.

Any resolution to this? Similar happened to me today, for the first time.

 

[ChrisP]

Funny you should mention this. After posting this back in November, I discovered two things. 1. Loose battery connection and I had a coolant leak. After fixing both and cleaning all the major connections , everything has been fine. Rode through the winter with no problem. But, It just happened again. Sunday was hot and we were riding single track at the Delaware Enduro. I discovered another coolant leak and my system was dangerously low. I suspect it's coincidence but who knows. I don't know if an overheat condition could trigger a FI error? Unfortunately, our new local Husky KTM dealer does not seem interested in working on or ordering parts for Italian Huskys and doesn't have the proper scan tool harness. As before, my selling dealer is 2 hours away and I can guarantee he'll tell me nothing is wrong with it. We will see what happens after I fix the cooling system and clean the connections again.

 

[Tinken]

Where are you getting your coolant leaks?

 

[bikesparky]

To be honest, the only way to diagnose this properly is to hang it on the diagnostic tool and it will tell you the fault. I know it's a pain but it's the only proper way!
I recently looked at one that had the dealer scratching his head, and it's only with the diagnostic tool and proper fault finding that the problem can be solved.

 

[AndrewS]

Funny you should mention this. After posting this back in November, I discovered two things. 1. Loose battery connection and I had a coolant leak. After fixing both and cleaning all the major connections , everything has been fine. Rode through the winter with no problem. But, It just happened again. Sunday was hot and we were riding single track at the Delaware Enduro. I discovered another coolant leak and my system was dangerously low. I suspect it's coincidence but who knows. I don't know if an overheat condition could trigger a FI error? Unfortunately, our new local Husky KTM dealer does not seem interested in working on or ordering parts for Italian Huskys and doesn't have the proper scan tool harness. As before, my selling dealer is 2 hours away and I can guarantee he'll tell me nothing is wrong with it. We will see what happens after I fix the cooling system and clean the connections again.

Sorry, didn't mean to jinx you!

It was fairly warm here, Sunday, as well. Rode a lot of tight single track, but things seemed okay at that point. I had just over a 5 mile ride home, and that's when it started to act up.

I did have a lot of flame-outs during the single track riding, but also think I need to adjust my clutch a bit.

Also checked my valve clearances yesterday (What a PITA on this bike!) because I can have difficulties with hot starts which I suspect may be related to auto-decompression issues. My left exhaust valve clearance is at least .25mm (but less than .28mm), so I suspect that's the problem and will re-shim it to correct it.

I'm about the same distance from my dealer as you are from yours, so will only take my bike there as a last resort. I may just pick up a temperature sensor in case that's the issue. It would be nice to have a reference for the number of flashes. It's got to be documented somewhere, though it's not in the service manual.

 

[ChrisP]

The first leak back in November was the water pump seal. I was getting coolant in the oil. The one I discovered this past Sunday is in the seam of the thermostat.
I was getting flame outs as well. I run a Rekluse core 3.
I am investigating a thermostat bypass.
I am also thinking about the fan temp sensor as well. When I first bought this bike I recall the fan running constantly. Now I'm trying to remember if it was running Sunday. Since this bike has no overflow bottle, I am wondering if it's over heating and coolant is evaporating out the discharge hose.
According to my sucky dealer, it should display a code on the speedo when the light comes on. I don't see one but it doesn't mean that something isn't stored in the ECU. I have no faith that if I take it in he will be able to see a code much less diagnose an intermittent problem

 

[Tinken]

I recommend you remove your thermostat and add XF2. This will greatly increase the transfer of heat from your engine to the radiators. And it will drop the system pressure from ^30psi down to 1-2psi keeping your seals and hoses in check. There will be no need for an overflow bottle as you will not leak a drop of XF2 when purged to the correct level. After these two additions, I doubt the fan will run constantly unless sitting at a traffic stop.

Your 1/4 throttle stumble is a common lean condition on 310R models, especially when after market exhaust systems have been added. Ecu flashing/pc5 programming resolves this issue.

 

[ChrisP]

Tinken,
Thank you for the response. I do have an FMF exhaust on the bike. In terms of a reflash, Is the PC5 programing software something a dealer would have available ? Or is it a special reflash that I have to send the ECU to you for ?
I will also consider XF2. My bike is strictly off road mostly tight single track and rocky up hills that puts a lot of demand on the cooling system.

 

[Tinken]

The dealer can re-flash your oem ecu to the LeoVince race map or I can do it, whichever is convenient for you. The powercommander is something I do myself. The thermostat delete/XF2 will be very beneficial to you. Johnrg (who posted earlier in this thread) has these modifications as well. His 310 is one of the smoothest running 310R's I have seen.

 

[ChrisP]

Lol, sorry I didn't realize PC5 meant Power Commander DUH!

 

[AndrewS]

Well, after swapping my temperature sensor, shimming my valves, oil & filter, Zip-Ty oil drain back kit, I was stoked to finally get out and ride, today.

Just after I got out to the trails (about 5 miles), the FI light was flashing and the bike was stumbling again. FFS! Way to piss me off on a Sunday.

I found I could ride for a bit, after I let the bike cool down, but it didn't take long to start acting up again.

Not sure where to go from here, but my dealer is about 2 hours away. I really wish there was an iBeat type utility that was affordable for end users.

This is NOT the way to spend a Sunday.

FWIW, the FI light seemed to be flashing one long, two short flashes, eventually just staying solid.

Also noticed the stumbling is only at low RPM. when revving high, it seems to run okay.

 

[ChrisP]

Andrew,
Is it possible your thermostat is stuck closed ?
Here's my update:
I purchased the TC 250 hoses that eliminate the thermostat. I cut one hose to add the fan sensor back in. Then filled it with waterless coolant.
No bull, been riding for 3 weeks in 90 degree heat. FI light hasn't come on once and no stumble or flame out.

 

[Johnrg]

Depending on miles, fuel quality, dirt, etc... May be a clogging injector. Why I started running a fuel sock. Fill with Chevron or get some techron and see if that makes any difference.

 

[AndrewS]

Andrew,
Is it possible your thermostat is stuck closed ?
Here's my update:
I purchased the TC 250 hoses that eliminate the thermostat. I cut one hose to add the fan sensor back in. Then filled it with waterless coolant.
No bull, been riding for 3 weeks in 90 degree heat. FI light hasn't come on once and no stumble or flame out.

Chris, I'll definitely check that. Thanks!

John, I've only got about 600 miles on my TE. It also runs great before this happens. I get good quality fuel, without ethanol. Always bought from the same location.

It's strange to me to design a FI system that flashes a code to you, but (apparently) doesn't make the list of codes available. If it's only meant for dealers, they can just read the code with the HST.

 

[Johnrg]

Only other time I have had the light flash is a battery that had failed and wouldn't hold a charge. Bike would run but poorly with FI light flashing. I agree if there is a code is is relaying to not have the list of possible issues. I figure any and all things connected to the FI system are suspect. Power, fuel/fuel pressure, etc....