• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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TE 250 Locked up engine, first time, help

Grogg88

Husqvarna
C Class
Hello! were out driving today, when i came to a bend (i think i geared down to second gear) and had quit high rpm, the engine stalled , tryed to restart but both kickstarter and electric starter is locked up. I dont know, but maby i accidetly pressed the starter button while driving.?!

I have removed left and right enginecovers, drained the oil, and everything looks fine, no steel flakes.

My heart says that it is the starter assy thats locked up, im about to remove the exhaust now and then the starter assy. Someone told me that the starter is crap on these bikes.

Has this happened to any one els? Ideas??
 
I've no idea regarding the xlite 250's, mine is the older model, but it sounds like you are on the right track. Please let us know what you find.
 
Hmm, i removed the starter assy, and Everything looks nice, i Think. When i placed the bike on a stand and reversed the rear tire with first gear in, the Engine moved just a little. Probably scratched the cylinder even worse, i Think the piston has siezed :'(

Nice, bought the bike 1 mounth ago, been driven it 5 times.........
 
look up the exhaust in the cylinder and turn the magneto with your hand to see if the piston rises, it does sound like a seizure... or possibly the conrod let go but thats normally a big bang and unusual.
 
look up the exhaust in the cylinder and turn the magneto with your hand to see if the piston rises, it does sound like a seizure... or possibly the conrod let go but thats normally a big bang and unusual.

It's a 4 stroke.
 
you could look down the spark plug hole. it'll make it easier to move the piston as well.
 
Now, my friends, i will tell u what i´l found. Kind of did this in the wrong way, but atleast i learned how the Engine works.. . .. . . .

Removed the head and cylinder, Everything looked nice. DOH, moved back a step and started looking at the starter assy, again. Removed the starter and Engine worked just fine... DOOOOOH

A gear, wich the starter assy drives, behind the flywheel was siezed, didn´t see that until we could move the Engine, and small metal piezes startet falling.....
I have watched the drawing over the starter, and i Think i found the gear, but not shure. I Think it´s 8000 A7073 RING GEAR

Well, this is NOT the way too solve mechanical problems, yeah, im speachless....... The piston has 50h on it, and im planning too keep it. What do you Think? Of course im buying new gaskets

I´l check valve clearence and change the sparkplug, now when it´s easy to reach ;-)
 
There is a sticky thread in 4st (this place) about the starter issues.

Cannot intelligently comment about the piston, but it sounds fine to me.
 
So, now i´m a bit on the way, Problem 1 , refitted the cam chain tensioner with a torque wrench of cource, tightened it to spec Nm, and wrooops, busted threads, lifted out the entire Engine and drilled the threads out and screwed a helicoil insert in! That workt realy well.

Just fitted the cams, tightened the camshaft covers with 7 Nm ( Think a read 8 nm somewhere, its NOT in the manual :-S ) and two screws feels like the threads are busted, but not entierly of course , what is this crap material in this Engine???? Also the previous owner has tightened the valve cover so the head has two cracks at one of the threads. :-(

I would realy like to know the correct valve clearance, the manual says intake, 15 hundredths, and exhaust 20 hundredths . Is that the same as 0,15 mm and 0,20 mm?? If it is, im out of the specs.

Do i have a area too move in or should it be exactly 15, 20 hundredths?? I mean like "exhaust from 0,15 to 0,25 or so."
 
0,15 is 15/100ths, and 0,20 is 20/100's. You really should shoot for the exact number but do not go smaller. That would open the valves sooner and close them later. A little too much clearance I think is ok, but too much will not open the valves all the way.
 
Okej Guys**************************************** Now the bike runs. :-) After all problems.

But i got a problem.... Again.. The rear wheel is hard to turn, its not the brakes, that means that it is the driveshaft ..... When i got the bike standing running in neutral, the bike slowly drives away, in Neutral. How is this possible??? Im using the spec engine oil.

Could there be some kind of gearbox problem?? Could my busted starter been busted by anything else than me pushing the starter button while driving? I´m all lost here :-(
 
Eh, why would my clutch cable have anything to do whit this problem. When the Bike is standing on its wheels while in Neutral gear, the Bike runs away. Not much but it runs :-D

the heavy turning drive shaft seemes to be a oil problem, atleast for me

the way i feels right now, i Think il do a slow drive to see If the problems are solved, maby the oil did not get everywhere when drivning 2 minutes yesterday (had it standing iddling 5 minutes too)
 
Did you flush the gearbox out when you had the engine removed? Maybe you have a bit of scrap metal in there?
 
I did not flush the engine. Maby i should have done. Im thinking about rising the oil level just a litle. I have between 900 cc and 1000 now.
 
Now i got it! I had the front sprocket taken off, and the axel were still heavy to spin, i added 1 dl oil and it was standing idling for 2 minutes. Then the axel was spinning just as easy as before! Well happy as i was i retightened the sprocket and put the chain back on, then the axle was heavy again. :doh:

So, i unscrewed the drive shaft nut just a bit, and it spins easy again. What is this?

On my gasgas there´s only a locking ring, thats nice :D
 
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