• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TC449... Run an 18" rim for trail ridding???

Billy D.

Husqvarna
Recently pickup a 2011 Husqvarna tx449... And I am considering changing the origonsl 19" rim for a 18" like ön the TXC.

Any thoughts or advice.."
 
Recently pickup a 2011 Husqvarna tx449... And I am considering changing the origonsl 19" rim for a 18" like ön the TXC.

Any thoughts or advice.."

Definitely good move for off road. :thumbsup:
The 19 " rear is a low profile track tyre that does not flex as much on the rim because it is not designed to be hitting rocks, tree roots along with other trail junk.
Also far greater tyre options available.

SAM511
 
I think youve got a sach shock i never liked that unit on my xlite 310 and the txc449 has kyb like the te449. Your forks are the same as a txc. you only have a five speed box the txc has six like the te449. Ive got a te449 and have your forks with no lights to make mine a txc. Your cams, piston and fuel injection are unique to the tc449 the txc/te share the same engine.
 
Spud - yeah... I was mostly excited for the fuel injection and exhaust differences. I was a bit disappointed about the gears, until i saw that the first 3 were the same and the 4th was barely different. Seems that 5th is a bit taller and 6th is added. Seeing how I rarely get past 4th it didn't turn out to be an issue.

Been pretty pleased so far... just getting used to the additional weight and power.
 
Billy, the jd tuner talked a lot about i dont think will go on your bike. Your exhaust although better then the system on the txc/te is still restrictive. A power bomb and open up the muffler will get more power plus cutting a couple holes in the air box lid will realease even more power. Your bike in its current trim i suspect would be about the same as my te449. If you want more power look at your exhaust and air box like i say. Ive been looking at the tc449 from cross over parts to my te449 the only thing which puts me off is the 5 speed box. During some races i do top speed across half mile ploughed fields is important being able to do nearly 100mph is required from the enduro events i ride and getting around tight woodlands. Im running 15front 48rear i may need to go to a 46 rear later in the year.
 
i have been told that air box mods will do nothing but i'm not convinced. next air filter change i'm going to try leaving the lid off and doing a few experiments around the block along with some JD tuner settings. that should tell me pretty quickly whether or not modding the air box will be worth it or not. spud did you cut into the airbox from above and right under the seat / side covers?
 
I wouldnt try running the bike without the lid and filter youll end up killing the engine. My modifications are all from a sm race team in the uk. They race both the tc and sm and im giving them thumbs up results with there advice. Dyno what be they way forward.
 
no i wouldn't do that, just the lid - i'll keep the filter in place. So is their race advice ultra top secret... still wondering if you cut into the top of the air box or where?
 
I noticed when cleaning mine... that most of the dirt is 25% of the filter closest to the snorkel. My guess is that you would want a few small holes near the areas that don't usually have dirt... to allow that area of the filter to breathe.

That said... if more horsepower was as simple was letting in more air... I would guess that the Husky engineers are smart enough to have added a second snorkel :P
 
Top secret.....lol.....one hole is inline with the lid snorkel between the two retaining lid clips. The other is directly opposite on the other side of the lid. I rode last sunday, the race was dusty when i inspected the filter there were clear witness dust marks where air was being sucked in from the new holes. Witness dust marks at the lid drain holes and a spread of dust from the snorkel. The holes are approx 10mm by 70mm. Ive used some sump foam giving protection from water whooshing in. Ive a full fmf system if your running with the standard akra and front pipe i cant tell if this modification is worth doing. If you do post a reply for others to read.
 
Thanks spud Will do on posting back. Of course i'll make it a top secret hush hush post and keep it away from the Honda / KTM -Husky wannabee's :cheers:
 
I noticed when cleaning mine... that most of the dirt is 25% of the filter closest to the snorkel. My guess is that you would want a few small holes near the areas that don't usually have dirt... to allow that area of the filter to breathe.

That said... if more horsepower was as simple was letting in more air... I would guess that the Husky engineers are smart enough to have added a second snorkel :P[/quote

Induction noise would be higher with a more open airbox and so this is the reason i was told we have a peashooter hole snorkel to meet usa noise regs.....thats the theory and have you noticed the induction sucking noise even a idle speed its like the bike ks having a asthma attack that weezing noise.
 
Ok, i pulled the bottom of the airbox, stuck the filter back in there (had to use some bungees to hold it in there since it is held in place by the box lid) went around the block a couple of times. Stopped and richened the JD settings by two on every setting. Something is definitely happening here aside from the howl that i was hearing coming into the air box now. Off idle crack of the throttle still fell flat, just doesn't seem to have that snap that a lot of modern day 4 strokes have. However once past 1/8th throttle the motor very quickly revs, it doesn't gradually build like it used to. It gets way up to top speed faster than it had. Very different and freaky exhilarating compared to the slow steady build of rpm it used to have. I like it but i want that off idle snap so i can easily loft the wheel up and over obstacles without having to hit the higher RPM's. It got dark quickly so i'll get back to messing with the JD settings again tomorrow. Should be interesting, since i opened it up just about as much as it could be compared to a few holes there might not be much difference from stock???
 
Big, Im keeping tight lipped how you carried out your test i would never have done that and your airbox modification was very extreme compared to what ive done. However, the fact that you had a difference and even a positive one is making me think a may want to go a little further with my air box mod, what do think? I know they rev quicker like the bikes got a turbo...haha...your standard akra has a big lump of metal and lots of restrictions so if you do one thing you may need to do something else. The bottom end power on my bike feels a good 20% stronger than when it had that akra derestricted....the question is are you onto something with that airbox? Id say yes keep posting your test results
 
Keep you 19" wheel and buy an extra used 4st Husky 18" rear wheel.

You should be able to get one for $250 or so.....a rim and spokes will cost you $200.
 
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