• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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TC radiator hose kit on TE: delete the thermostat?

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All I'm using for fueling tools is iBeat and the JD powersurge. I don't know what my mixture actually is doing, unfortunately, outside of knowing I'm running richer than the stock ECU map at all CO's. I'm using to calculating 25-30 mpg doing woods riding. Don't know how it did in the open desert as I didn't keep track that closely. (had the 2.9g IMS and only needed to go 50 miles:D)
 
Hey, thanks for yet another post that contributes nothing to the thread!


No problem!
Just start titling your threads : "Don't reply unless you agree with me, for I own all the internets"


Have the water jacket milled off, and run it air-cooled! Think of the weight savings!
 
@olderhusky: I only get about 30mpg anyhow in the desert, where I never get above about 40 mph. ;-) I do sympathize with your fuel mileage problems! I'm curious, how do you know the fuel mixture changes at 170 degrees? I could imagine hooking up my ibeat and Power commander software and watching for changes as the engine temp comes up. But I don't think I'm up for all that effort. But I would be really curious what the engine temp was at 60 mph in various ambient air temperatures.

I read somewhere that 170 degrees was the lowest temp for normal fuel/air mixing, that anything below that, the computer considered "cold", can't remember where I saw it, I like my bike to run at 200-220F water temp, my fan comes on at 220F, when my motor oil exiting the lower end/oil pump is at about 200F.
 
All I'm using for fueling tools is iBeat and the JD powersurge. I don't know what my mixture actually is doing, unfortunately, outside of knowing I'm running richer than the stock ECU map at all CO's. I'm using to calculating 25-30 mpg doing woods riding. Don't know how it did in the open desert as I didn't keep track that closely. (had the 2.9g IMS and only needed to go 50 miles:D)

So, you have equipment to check, but you're too lazy to do it (or don't know how).
You don't accept any answer other than what you want to hear.
You're smarter than the Husky engineers.
You're smarter than FI systems engineers.
You're too lazy to learn just about anything about standard fuel curves.
You want folks to tell you what's acceptable, and (most likely) take credit for your GRAND idea...
Who's really bringing nothing to this discussion?

Do you also hold a patent for redesigning cooling systems on Cummins engines?
Have you been recruited to a Nascar mechanical team?
Have you taught fluid dynamics to undergrads?

What you're doing is Hillbilly Engineering 101.
The engine will run just fine without the thermostat. It's there to improve it.
You don't understand how...so I choose to laugh at you instead.

Now, I'll ignore you and play with my dog.
 
First off, I'm going to caution everyone to start playing nice with one another!!!

Now as to the question about thermostats. They are there for more than a fast warm-up. They maintain a more constant engine temp. and so a more consistent running engine,this is particulary true on efi engines that have sensors that change A/F ratios under certain temp ranges. Sometimes removeing a thermostat will actually make you're engine run hotter because you now have fluid that moves too freely through the engine with not enough dwell time in the radiators to give up latent heat. Most of the time when a thermostat is removed from a race engine there is a a restrictor plate that is installed in it's place to keep the fluid from rushing through the radiators/exchangers without having enough time to cool.
 
@WbCherry, apologies if I offended you. I got sarcastic and hit a sore spot, which has completely derailed this thread. CH deserves better than this. I have no issue with anyone disagreeing with me and am actually pretty open minded. If I've come across otherwise, once again, I apologize.

I am still interested in the possibilities of simplifying the cooling system, but not at the cost of an engine. However, taking into account a couple of other poster's experience with changing the cooling circuit and experiencing no obvious negative impact I will most likely give it a go. My risk, my money. Hopefully, it pans out.

Peace:cheers:
 
I would like to at least relocate the thermostat on my 630. Even slightly to the left or right of the frame tube would help a lot. Wrestling the valve cover off is a bear with that thermostat in the way.
 
@WbCherry, apologies if I offended you. I got sarcastic and hit a sore spot, which has completely derailed this thread. CH deserves better than this. I have no issue with anyone disagreeing with me and am actually pretty open minded. If I've come across otherwise, once again, I apologize.

I am still interested in the possibilities of simplifying the cooling system, but not at the cost of an engine. However, taking into account a couple of other poster's experience with changing the cooling circuit and experiencing no obvious negative impact I will most likely give it a go. My risk, my money. Hopefully, it pans out.

Peace:cheers:

I have a TC set of hoses in the garage, I won't put them on my 310. When it was new I cooked it a few times ( radiator overflow ), but since I put the JD kit in it's been sweet as & there have been a few situations worse than when it boiled over new.

I don't run a fan mind you.

My call is unless you are boiling the radiator why remove the thermostat, the minor increase in piping simplicity is far outweighed by the potential engine damage if your bike goes under load colder than it is designed to be. That's my $0.02c ( well more like $125 because that's how much the radiator hoses I am not using cost me ).
 
I guess it TOTALLY depends on the riding you do and if you are more apt to benifit from the intention of the thermostat- restrict flow to maintain operating temps. Knowing that you may benifit from an open system more if you run more tight stuff and HOT. ON the "450 and 510s" on older 250/310(non xlites): there is no thermostat- Apparently some some year xlite te's have them (new to me as well). Looking at the system with the thermostat- it looks like a "T" where the thermostat sits (where I have my uptite Y). George did extensive research to develope the "Uptite Y" for more effective cooling. I haven't noticed a fueling problem or bad fuel milage due to too much cooling- but I don't ride to long in anything open (that's my chance to put some air through the radiators and cool it down). But, Since this would be a T and somewhat of a restriction due to the thermostat- I would think optimum cooling capacity is limited. I understand restricting the system to allow the coolant to cool (like a car) but that doesn't seem to jive completely with the results of UPtites research- BUt he probably didn't test this system. You'd almost have to try it yourself back to back- but whatever system you have: if its working for you I'd say leave it.

I am more likely to have coolant pushing into my overflow than too much cooling- this year I am going to use Zipty Coolant (if it has freeze protection/not sure) or Engine Ice, and get a new radiator cap possibly with stronger spring. I have the Y and I have the husky hard parts HighFlow pump for 450/510s (which does seem to improve my system). The only other thing I did was run a HP fuel hose and clamps for the crossover hose.
 
Just got this email from the Samco people:
__________________
Long time but guess what, we have made the tooling for this hose kit and now offer both a Thermostat bypass kit as well as a direct OEM replacement retaining the thermostat.
HUS - 8Husky TC/TE/TI 250 2010-2011 (2) hoses Bypass kit
HUS-9Husky TC/TE/TI 250 2010-2011 (3) OEM
You can now order these from www.racebikebitzusa.com which will ship direct to you from the UK via FedEx Priority 3 day for $25
Let me know if you have any questions.
Have a great day
 
olderhuskyrider, you seem to be derailing my thread!
Here is the TE I have, note the thermostat, item # 15:
View attachment 13216

And here is the TC diagram, not the simpler hose setup:
View attachment 13217

You can lookup the part number for the TE thermostat on your own, or you can offer to buy mine. ;-)
Now, any good reasons I shouldn't remove the thermostat?
Carl
So funny how someone who is asking for help without wanting to assist anyone else...
 
Hey, it's your post not mine. I tend to try and not be rude when "answering" someone's question. If I had not known the part number that's what I would have said rather than " you can look it up on your own or offer to buy mine". Seemed to be a bit of "bitchiness" going on in this thread, I should have stayed out of it. Sorry if I stepped on your post.
As far as you thermostat is concerned, I don't think you have any worries as long as you warm up your bike properly. i pulled mine (but then again, I live in Indonesia where warming up isn't much of an issue)
 
sorry i got bored with the waffling so only read up to this thread/
thermostat is there to get engine to temp and keep it in set range ideal for fueling.
if its full power then you have removed the closed loop fuealing and are relying on the i beat setting you put in.
it will need to be warmed up fully before riding or the fast road riding will prevent it getting to temp
yes fuel ecomomy may be different cooler/hotter cylinder temps, never heard of people overheating without stat but do see the logic re coolant circulating too fast..
the TCs runs same engine and runs without stat. why because it aint designed for the road**************************************** its for short track and a bike warmed up before racing.


i agree with you why do people comment and post on threads when they arent contributing anything and instead are just hijacking thread or sending it off in a tangent, why would you ask about a thermostat and expect a reply of "i didnt think they had one" well if you didnt think they had one then you aint suitablely knowledgeable about the model to be posting a comment. and yea i can see you know your onions so this aint a dig at you personally.

as a skilled spannerman i post here to get advise to confirm my views or make me think differently or if i really dont know an answer. i aint interested in 2000 opions from unskilled untrained people who couldnt replace a light bulb. one thread i read the other day was someone who did a 8mm cam cover bolt to 72ft/lb instead of 72in/lb****************************************!! and wondered why he stripped 2 and snapped one****************************************! cummon, a little knowledge is dangerous.

by the way my lawn mower runs 10w/30 mineral oil. will this be ok in my te310, surely if it keeps mower running it will be ok. oils oil after all my mate used to run his 50cc on baby oil 20 yrs ago, could i use that as its cheaper?. i was also thinking of filling my tyres with concrete due to the rain here to try and help with aquaplaning. any ideas why this wont work??

i had to laugh at the idiot who thought the thermostat controlled the fan. FFs its not a central heating thermostat. Really.

may be start new threads with idiots need not post your 2cents worth. only knowledgeable people who can help may post.

daily rant over
 
as a skilled spannerman i post here to get advise to confirm my views or make me think differently or if i really dont know an answer. i aint interested in 2000 opions from unskilled untrained people who couldnt replace a light bulb.
I fully understand your position. When you start your threads (I realize you did not start this one) politely ask for responses from people that really know the answer. If you get other types of responses please politely ignore than rather than trying to make people feel bad regarding their input.

The way sites like Cafe Husky works is this:
  • People can all contribute, though the quality of the input may not be perfect.
  • Everyone who participates in a positive way i.e. tries to help, should be treated with respect for their time spent giving input.
  • Once someone spends enough time reading input people give, the more knowledgeable people are easier to spot.
If the way this site works is not acceptable to you then you should probably find another way to obtain the information you seek.
 
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