• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Suspension Setup recommendations.

Moving the crossover probably won't help much with bottoming on jumps, because the total damping will be the same.

I'd try adding some face shims. Right now you effectively have 5 (2X 22.1, plus the 21.15 is equal to about 3X 0.1s). Try bumping it up to 8, and see how it feels. Just add 3X 22.1 shims.

You could alternatively try removing the 11.2 shim so that you're clamping on the 12.15, as long as the base valve body is big enough for that.
 
Ive ended with 290ml in outer for FULL compression as any more and it compressed then deflected/bottomed on oil and was horrible to ride. I removed 2 compression shims and fitted .43 springs. im 77kg dry and like the softness in the initial travel but needed firmer nearer end so upt the clickers. I also fitted 50/50 mix 2.5w and 5w rock oil to simulate the CST reading for the Maxima fork oil recommended on here and get a better match as not all 5w are the same

http://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/

Im thinking i need .45 springs to be perfect now will see if ebay can find a baragain
 
I tried to dial my bike in this week.
New 2013 wr 125
I got the rear set as the specs in this thread. (Little less preload and bingo correct specs)
Now the front is a different animal.

Bike sag is 30 mm and rider sag is 40 mm. Me on or off the bike just makes a difference off 10 mm.
My weight varies between 155 and 158 pounds (70-72 kg).
Following the specs I need 75 mm rider sag at the front
The extra sag at the front is really welcome as I am a short guy and can't get my feet on the ground.

Maybe if I have to do the costs, it is better to have the bike completely lowered with the correct springs in the fork. At the moment I run the bike with the fork +1cm in the triple clamps but have still loose front wheel traction in tight slow twists.
What do you think changing the front springs (which ones) or a complete suspension modification.
Money is a little tight at the moment, but good setup suspension is important for me.
Al suggestions welcome.
Best David
 
Hi David,
The cheapest lowering method is to shave off some material from the saddle foam.
Next is with a longer linkage rod in the rear and pulling up the forks in the clamps, but I don't know of a lowering link for this bike.
Maybe someone can comment on this.
Otherwise, the only good solution I've heard is to let a suspension tuner do a proper lowering.
Good luck
 
I think that your measurement of the front sag is in error, if it only changes by 10 mm when you get on the bike. Based on the stock spring rates and your weight, you should see 30-40mm of change when you get on the bike. I'm suspicious of excess stiction on the front end, it can be hard to get a good front measurement. I'm not super familiar with the 125s, but I suspect that you want around 0.38-0.40 front springs? Some other guys here would know better.
 
Seat is a lowered one and I have pulled the fork up the max amount ( 1cm)
I took the measurement together with my girlfriend. I'll check them again.
Even after all these mods, the bike still is very high for me. Only one toe on the ground. It's only a problem when something goes bad, mostly on a steep slope ...
 
You are saying front wheel traction at slow speed is a problem. Are you sure your riding position and skill not contributing? I just went through riding school and few things were pointed out to me to improve front wheel traction.

I have exactly Same issues with front traction. And bike height.
 
I checked my rider fork sag again. Before i sprayed the fork with silicon oil for reducing friction.
Rider sag is still only 42 mm. (bike is new with only 300km) Static sag at front is 30 mm.
What should I do ? New springs, lower preload? This is all new for me, so help and suggestions needed.
David
 
My previous comments still stand. The sag measurements simply can't be right if you are only having 12 mm of change between static and rider sag. If you do some back of the envelope calculations, that would mean the spring rate was over 1.0 kg/mm, which is just way off.

I'd probably just use the recommendations from other guys of similar weight in this thread for the same bike.
 
Depends on the fork. If you have preload spacers, you can change the length of the spacer. Some CC forks have internal rings that allow for preload adjustment. On some forks, the springs are the full length of the inside of the fork tube, so decreasing preload requires somewhat difficult machine work. Adding preload is usually easy, just add more spacer/washer.
 
Could it be that the lowered seat I am using is putting most weight on the rear end, although I think I also measered when standing on the pegs. I even loosened the triple clamp and torqued it to specs. Still the same sag between 40 and 44 mm.
What am I doing wrong ?
 
david.bergen said:
Could it be that the lowered seat I am using is putting most weight on the rear end, although I think I also measered when standing on the pegs. I even loosened the triple clamp and torqued it to specs. Still the same sag between 40 and 44 mm.
What am I doing wrong ?
Click to expand...
If you don't align the forks properly on the axle you could have a stiction problem causing your erroneous sag numbers. Watch this video
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=siSIue3IWeI
if your axle doesn't float freely like in the video it may have a ding or burr restricting it
 
Could it be that the lowered seat I am using is putting most weight on the rear end, although I think I also measered when standing on the pegs. I even loosened the triple clamp and torqued it to specs. Still the same sag between 40 and 44 mm.
What am I doing wrong ?
Click to expand...

I realize this is somewhat old post, but I just wanted to add you should be measuring your sag while standing in the attack position, not seated so the seat shouldn't matter. Though measuring while seated would affect your numbers/results.
 
I found this thread shortly after ordering .44 fork springs using RaceTech's page. I knew stock was supposed to be .44, but I had 20mm sag and 50mm rider and knew that wasn't right. My forks and axle aren't in a bind and I loosened re-torqued everything.
I reduced the shock preload to @ 8mm and serviced the forks with 5wt Maxima, 120mm down, and the .44 springs. Now I have
rear 25/75, want 35/108
front 38/65, want 42/75

So thinking next is a 5.0 shock spring, assuming the current is 5.4, and then re-measure. From what I've read here, pretty sure I'll want .40 fork springs.
I weigh @ 175 geared up and am a fast trail rider, planning to race as soon as I get the bike sorted.

It's supposed to be really nice here this weekend and 1st half of next week, so gonna ride what I got for now.

more later and thanks to all who contributed here.
 
Well, I had help with the initial measurements :rolleyes: and now find major differences with the shock. Re'd every thing and now have 35m sag, but can't get rider sag without some help
It's much better balanced and the front settles into turns and tracks, plants and carves much better. Tried to bottom and couldn't, so still thinking softer springs. Compression is almost all the way out and rebound is a couple of clicks out too. Was great today at high speed on the fire roads, but a little harsh in the rough stuff, rear kicked hard a few times and tended to spin and slide more than it should.

Still looking for 5.0 rear spring and maybe 4.0 front.
 
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