• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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All 2st Suspension Question?

C

Chums

Husqvarna
Pro Class
I have a wr300 and Cr/wb125 both red and black 14's. Both suspensions set up for me at Halls.
In choppy ruts the 165 feels real harsh and jarring and when I'm braking real hard, front and rear, over choppy braking bumps the rear feels like it doesn't want to stay on the ground and help me stop. The deal is, its about perfect on everything else, it turns great handles roots sand bumps and jumps real well.
The 300 doesn't handle bigger jumps as well as the 165. It doesn't deflect off anything, handles real well on everything, but it also feels real jarring in choppy ruts. I don't have the same braking problem with the 300 as I do the 165.
If anyone has some advice it would be great! I'm getting faster and faster finishing top of B class passing A guys yet it seems some guys "float" through the woods while I'm getting beat up in the chop???
 
Braking bumps are hard. If anybody figures out the magic solution, I'm all ears.

A couple things to consider:
-Make sure that the reb is fast enough that the suspension isn't packing. When my front end packs down it gets harsh because you're buried in the bottom of the stroke.
-Could your suspension be softer in compression, especially high speed? Does it bottom or wallow now, or could it be lighter? Try going out a bunch of clicks on compression and see if it's better or worse.

I need to find a section of trail with some good breaking bumps and mess with my clickers to see what works. I've been too busy working on other suspension stuff, but I got most other stuff sorted, so... We usually have a few events in sandy/loamy singletrack in the woods where the braking bumps get BAD if you're on a late row.

Also, have you called Hall's? They might be able to help sort it out!
 
Will be calling halls tomorrow. Just like other opinions is all. The bikes handle real well until the course gets rutted and choppy. I was OK last year on the 300 but was going slower also. I'll try going both ways on everything and talk with Halls and see what I can do.
 
Suspension guys have told me the clickers should be somewhere near the middle of the adjustment for best effect usually. Suggest you take a small screw driver in your tool pack and adjust your suspension on the trail where you have the problem in the bumps.
It only takes a minute to adjust the suspension and take another pass through the same piece of trail to compare. Highly recommend adjusting ONLY rebound or compression at each test. You will be amazed at the effect of rebound. Also suggest as a test you leave rebound in /normal/ position and take a pass on the trail section with zero clicks on compression and then a new pass on full clicks compression to feel the range of adjustability. Everyone is spooked by suspension but with thoughtful testing[make notes- on a piece of tape on your numberplate] you can learn much in a short time.
 
steadydirt said:
Suspension guys have told me the clickers should be somewhere near the middle of the adjustment for best effect usually. Suggest you take a small screw driver in your tool pack and adjust your suspension on the trail where you have the problem in the bumps.
It only takes a minute to adjust the suspension and take another pass through the same piece of trail to compare. Highly recommend adjusting ONLY rebound or compression at each test. You will be amazed at the effect of rebound. Also suggest as a test you leave rebound in /normal/ position and take a pass on the trail section with zero clicks on compression and then a new pass on full clicks compression to feel the range of adjustability. Everyone is spooked by suspension but with thoughtful testing[make notes- on a piece of tape on your numberplate] you can learn much in a short time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions. I carry a screw driver stuck into some old gas line on my bike and have been known to make adjustments during a race even. I'm just puzzeled at how the bikes can be so good everywhere except the choppy ruts.

I did talk with Halls and they are looking up my info and did talk to Enduro Engineering as well. Its sounding like it could be a high speed valving deal or possibly a spring or oil deal. The guy at EE did seem to know his stuff and felt huskys generally came sprung to light and valved to stiff. I'll keep at it and see what happens.
 
Chums said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I carry a screw driver stuck into some old gas line on my bike and have been known to make adjustments during a race even. I'm just puzzeled at how the bikes can be so good everywhere except the choppy ruts.

I did talk with Halls and they are looking up my info and did talk to Enduro Engineering as well. Its sounding like it could be a high speed valving deal or possibly a spring or oil deal. The guy at EE did seem to know his stuff and felt huskys generally came sprung to light and valved to stiff. I'll keep at it and see what happens.
Click to expand...
That's the spirit- suggest a quick check on your sag and preload [front and rear] to keep a baseline.
 
Chums said:
Thanks for the suggestions. I carry a screw driver stuck into some old gas line on my bike and have been known to make adjustments during a race even. I'm just puzzeled at how the bikes can be so good everywhere except the choppy ruts.

I did talk with Halls and they are looking up my info and did talk to Enduro Engineering as well. Its sounding like it could be a high speed valving deal or possibly a spring or oil deal. The guy at EE did seem to know his stuff and felt huskys generally came sprung to light and valved to stiff. I'll keep at it and see what happens.
Click to expand...

This definitely sounds like a rebound thing. Either you are set way to slow on the rebound, and because of the frequency of the bumps, the suspension never levels back out, so you are riding on the bump stop -- but you should eventually feel your rear end drooping. Or, you are set with rebound so fast that the that the tire is getting pile-driven into each successive bump -- this isn't as noticeable on one-off bumps (hence the normal feeling during regular riding), but you might feel over-sprung in situations where you unweight the bike.

Are you sitting or standing while riding these sections?
 
Yeah i stand a lot and the sag on my 165 was right on, my 300 was soft so beefing that up this weekend. I run my rebound depending on terrain around 14 clicks out on 165 and 13 on 300 which is around the middle , compression is 8 out on 165 and 5 on 300 which is stiff according to halls so I'm going to back it off a bit and see what happens. I've got a feeling I'l end up with different valving by the time this is over lol. I dont like the bike to be springy or super soft because I get out of control if its springy and blow through all the travel and loose my connection with the bike if its extreamly soft.
 
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