• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Suddenly stalling 630, manifold pressure?

Epicaluptus

Epicaluptus

Husqvarna
A Class
So, I fixed my radiator leak, put 2 gpi radiators on + other coolant tubes. This all was a pain in the ass!
Took the opportunity to check valves, they were all within spec. So closed everything, tried to start again... It was difficult to start (oke with the fuel tank off for a week), but once I got it going, it would go very low in idle and stall.
So I cranked the idle screw, idle is good now but when you let go of the gas, the rpms drop slow.
I let it idle for a few minutes and it just stalls randomly.
Also when I gave it some throttle, sometimes the neutral light blinked once.
Tested some sensors, measured some things, tried again, gave it some throttle, and suddenly the light keeps blinking. So I hook up my Ibeat, manifold pressure low value. Is this the tps sensor thats faulty? Ordered one on ebay... I just want to ride.... Damn!
 
Aha, oke... Sensor is plugged in (the tps sensor is all in one, pressure, temperature & throttle position...). The vacuum line, no idea where I undid a vacuum line...
 
There have been several cases of TPS sensors failing over the years. It's the same Mikuni piece used on several different models of Yamahas/Suzukis, I purchased a new one from Ebay to have a spare on trips. Under $100.

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So new TPS sensor, new wiring, no neutral blinking light but it runs. Runs oke when I give it some gas, on idle same thing (it idles a bit higher than before 1400rpm), stalls after a while. White smoke when I give it some gas -> water? Maybe head gasket? But then it should run no? PU plug is still good (2.16kOhms). Try with lambda and let computer do the maths to check if it gets better? Or adjust the CO value's again? I am a little bit stuck here, I hope some of you can shine their light on this case :D
 
The stalling sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Have you kinked or pinched the fuel line? You may need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to check condition of your fuel pump and regulator.

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So update: I have 3 tps sensors, the original is failing sometimes on the manifold pressure sensor. Second one is broken, third one is a new one, but the voltage is inverted (goes from 4V throttle closed to 0V throttle open). So this is normal that when I rev it it stalls...
I've also plugged the O2 sensor in and let it adjust the fuel settings, now it keeps running. So I think the problem was too much fuel and a faulty tps sensor.
I hope I can get another correct sensor.
Maybe I can check pressure later aswell...
 
If you search Ebay for "YZF 125 tps" there are used ones available. I purchased a nearly new one from a Suzuki Bandit to have a spare.

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So I got another TPS sensor...
Plugged it in... Same problem as the previous one
untitled.JPG
Has there been an update from the sensor that instead of going to 5V that it goes to 0V? (closed throttle to open throttle)
I'm kinda sick of this stupid problem.
If I plug the original sensor back in I get this:
untitled2.JPG
So I guess the proble is inside the sensor? If it was the wiring then this sensor also should be giving a wrong value, right? But it looks the same as the original one, check previous post for the link to the ebay page.
 
Epicaluptus said:
So I got another TPS sensor...
Plugged it in... Same problem as the previous one
View attachment 85781
Has there been an update from the sensor that instead of going to 5V that it goes to 0V? (closed throttle to open throttle)
I'm kinda sick of this stupid problem.
If I plug the original sensor back in I get this:
View attachment 85782
So I guess the proble is inside the sensor? If it was the wiring then this sensor also should be giving a wrong value, right? But it looks the same as the original one, check previous post for the link to the ebay page.
Click to expand...
did you do the learning procedure of the new accelerator sensor ?. on the ibeat manual explains how to do it
 
To set the new Idle voltage? Yes I tried to do this, but because it gives the high percentage it reads around 4V, when I open the throttle, the voltage goes to 0V... So it always gives an error that the adjustments can't be set. Now I'm thinking that maybe the throttle body might be faulty? Ill take some pictures from when I'm trying to set the TPS.
 
I hate to say it, but I wonder if there are versions of this TPS that look identical but operate in reversed directions...? :mad: If so, I probably have a useless spare TPS.

There are a couple complete TE throttle bodies on eBay right now for a lot less than new...

Some pics of your TPS and the side of the throttle body might help.

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I might have good news for you Dynobob, less good news for me... The seller contacted their supplier of the sensors, and it's possible that there has been a faulty batch of sensors, but there is a possibility that they aren't going to order a new batch. So I got faulty sensors, a refund, and still a Husky that won't ride.
Also contacted SWM, same issue, you have to order the whole body to get the sensor.
Contacted Mikuni, they said to flip polarity (+ & ground), but I don't think that's a good idea. If they can garantee me that it won't harm the other sensors, fine by me, but I want it on email :) So I am waiting atm for an answer, probably going to try it anyways with an old sensor.
I got 4 TPS, you want a picture from all?
Conclusion, my first thought was right, faulty sensor, now to fix it!
Such a pitty, just installed heated grips for the winter and I can't ride now! Thanks for sticking by me.
 
I'm not sure how you could flip + and ground. I don't believe there is a ground going to the sensor, only a 5v constant feed and 3 wires returning a percentage of that 5volts based on what the throttle, air temp, and barometric sensors are seeing.
 
Actually there are 5 pins, so maybe there is a 5v and ground. I still don't see how reversing them would help and it seems to me it would mess up the 5v feed to the other two parts of the TPS... ?

_57k.jpg~original


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you should test with a digital tester.
looking at the wiring diagram, the central connector on which a black wire arrives is the one in common connected with
lambda
tilt sensor
refrigerant temperature
 
Got an email back, and he misread my email, he thought I had a carb... So he also said it's not possible to flip them. Hoping that the supplier of the sensors get a new batch of good sensors in.
 
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