• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

250-500cc sub frame swap?

surge

Husqvarna
AA Class
Did an awesome stunt on the 300 yesterday which totalled my sub frame, how far back can i go year wise in sourcing one that will fit? Not many wreckers with any recent Huskies locally as far as i can see..the dealer wants $1080.for newies so I'm scouting options!
Cheers
 
Did an awesome stunt on the 300 yesterday which totalled my sub frame, how far back can i go year wise in sourcing one that will fit? Not many wreckers with any recent Huskies locally as far as i can see..the dealer wants $1080.for newies so I'm scouting options!
Cheers
99 was the last year b4 the new slimmer seat and tank,what yrs yours?
 
06 and up has the same sub-frame for the WR250/300. 2000-04 will work but the end holding the back of the fender are shorter and don't support the new fender quite as well. Compare the one off your 360 with the 300 and you will see the difference.
 
Thanks gents, unfortunately the 360 isn't close by for me to measure, the above info has opened up some options for me though. Last question, were 4 stroke subframes the same as the 2 stroke ones? Found an 07 online and got wondering...
 
Sorry to be a pain, does anyone know if 4t subframes are interchangable with 2t ones?
 
i destroyed my subframe on my wr 250 04. i got a frame from a 4st and was told it would fit. it didnt. it had to be modified in height and it is wider so my panels dont fit properly.
 
Got the 360 back, pulled the subframe off and they're almost identical, a perfect fit on the 300 anyway. Not sure if I'll ever rebuild her, might offload her so someone can do that 6 speed trans mod.

Twisted much?
photo-7.jpg
 
You should be able to straighten that top one out without much work.

Yeah, not so convinced myself matey, I reckon I'll find it difficult to get close to usable again, I'll give it a go though.
the upside of this debacle, the brand new FMF Turbinecore I had on the 360 fits the 300 like a glove... nice to have a win every now and again
 
What would you use to straighten it out? I put a little bend in mine and want to fix it.
I have used a 2x4 placed in between the spars while the other side is clamped down,I have also used a friend to hold one side while I twisted the other straight,A piece of pvc pipe over one of the spars works as well, it all depends on where the sub-frame is bent and how badly.Good luck!:cheers:
 
I will ask around at this weeks NE Husky Gathering and maybe someone has something around that they wouldn't mind parting with and we can see about getting it sent down under.
 
You can anneal the bent areas and it will be easier to bend and less likely to break.
To anneal it, coat the area with soot from a dirty torch flame. Then get a good clean flame going and slowly heat until the soot just burns off. The annealed areas will regain their strength by just sitting for several hours.
I have used this method to straighten and bend many different aluminum parts.
 
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