• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stuck Cylinder, Advice Needed!

I would try the double nut method again with lots of heAt to the case where the stud enters, maybe someone used red Loctite.
 
Heat at the bottom of the cylinder above the case the case maybe magnesium. I'm not sure. The cylinder will expand faster than the stud it's a heat sink.
 
ct cr430 said:
Is there any indication that someone could have used a sealant in the base gasket area ? If so heat may free it up .
Click to expand...



no indication of sealant used at all, i've picked the gasket out all the way around, it's as clean as a whistle! on one side you can see the end of the stud threads protrude through into the case, there's nothing on the threads, again, clean. Everything points to it never being apart, the side cover screws are a bit chewed from likely playing with the ignition and clutch but there's no other witness marks on any of the screws or case allen head screws (which all came out easily) and it's a std bore.

I'll let it soak till the weekend, it it refuses to budge i'll apply heat around the bottom of the barrel just above the cases, i've already applied heat to the studs with no success, perhaps this penetrating fluid will help when i reheat it.

Good thing i have plenty of other things to do.....

Thanks for the replies guys, it's handy to know what others have tried and what has worked, it gives me the confidence to try things i am normally hesitant at doing.
 
Ok , you picked the base gasket out , is it completely out ? Can you move the cylinder down ? If you can see both ends of the studs , can you get a fluid/ solvent from one end of the stud to the other ? And on the other studs as well ?
 
I rarely heat anything, seems like it all ways screws something up. Drop the hole thing in a barrel of oil or something similar for a month , then use a very blunt air hammer and a piece of wood to vibrate it off. You could always use one of those extra heavy duty construction trash bags if you cant find a barrel (doubled up the bags). Go visit a Diesel mechanic shop and you can get plenty of old oil and it will most likely have diesel fuel in it as well . Hope this helps.
 
If you ever have stripped Allen heads I use a flat punch with a ball pine hammer and strike the edge of the hex to roll it in so it closes up the hex a little. Then I take a Allen hex wrench and sewage the new hex in the bolt head by hitting it with the hammer. I just eye ball the hex to line up the wrench.

I posted this trick in the husky club news letter. I wish we had a spot for tips here.

Just a little heat will loosen it. Soak it with penetrating oil and put it in black trash bag in the hot sun to soak.
 
Ok some interesting soaking applications
i have a minor problem new Mahle piston actually 2 that saw moisture, the rings are stuck
how would you free them without damaging a new piston
 
kroil is a brand of penetrant that many like. i have never used it but those who have say it is excellent. its drawback is that its hard to find many places. deep creep is made by the makers of sea foam, i find it far superior to pb and much kinder to plastic. i would try a bit of heat as well. altho those pistons may be ruined..
 
2premo said:
Ok some interesting soaking applications
i have a minor problem new Mahle piston actually 2 that saw moisture, the rings are stuck
how would you free them without damaging a new piston
Click to expand...

I wonder if the Mahler rings are cast iron? Cast iron to cast iron can rust together. Kroil should free it up.
 
Pb blaster has never failed me (yet) lol. buy a couple of cans might need a lid and keep replenishing when needed. I think you can buy it in a gallon can now too...
 
Here's another one to try . Years ago a friend of mine left the spark plug out of an old ducati 250 for a couple of winters in his basement . When he tried to start it , it was locked solid . We tried everything we could think of at the time but nothing worked . My dad made a suggestion of what to use and we laughed . Well he laughed at us a week later when the engine broke free with a few taps after soaking
for a week . This stuff softened the corrosion enough that we could get the engine apart and my friend out in back together re-using the original piston and rings . Don't laugh , he told us to use Coca-Cola . Poured half the can into the cylinder and drank the rest . I forgot all about this until reading another post .
 
Coke eats rust in radiators why not. I wash off acid on batteries and battery boxes with coke as a kid.
 
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