• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

strong spark, clean carburator, no start ARGGGG!!#%$&!!&$

Joniver

Joniver

Husqvarna
B Class
Hi there

I was wondering if someone could use two minutes and maybe come up with an ide of what is wrong with my Husky 250 cr 1978.

I have been riding it a few good runs in the forest lately, and now, it wont start. It has gone from starting at first or second kick, to now, horible to start, and today, no start at all.

I have checked the negative wires, I have a strong spark, I have checked the reed (all though I am not shure what I am supposted to check. They look closed and without cracks), I hace cleaned the carburator, new gass (4% oil).

I have yet to check the ignition because I am waiting for the tool to get the flywheel off. But, with the strong spark I have, there should be at least a kickback or two?

So...anyone out there that can help me out?

ps: I tried some startgas, just for the heck of it, but nothing happended? Could it be the reed that isnt letting anyting pass?

When I take out the sparkplug after kicking (and screaming), it is wet with petrol.

And yes, I have changed the sparkplug. Using now the NGK B8ES

Thanks people
 
The favourite is the woodruff key on the end of the crank shearing. It will let the flywheel move so the timing is out. You will have a great spark, just not at the right time. I had that on my 78 390 about 11 years ago. That would be worst case scenario though.
 
You may be totally flooded. I mean lower end loaded with gas. A guy did this at Unadilla this year, it was just so wet.

We had him turn bike almost over to drain it. It started later. Just a though.
 
what color is your spark? should have a blue color or it is getting weak. the sheared flywheel key is a good thing to check...have you ever performed a compression test?
 
Good responses here. Sounds ignition related to me. Open air spark is not the same as under compression. Sometimes it looks good. Try the simple stuff first like spark plug wire and new plug. Clean all grounds and connectors. Check kill switch.
 
Yea, check to make sure you fly wheel has not spun on the crank shaft and causing the motor to be out of time. Doing the compression check is easy and will tell you if you have good enough compression for the motor to even fire. If the compression is low then start looking to find out why. If the compression is good then it is most likely fuel or ignition problems. Also when was the last time you had a new float valve installed in the carb? The float valve may not be seating completely or worn and gotten progressively worse causing the motor to eventually completely flood. Float valves are only good for about 2 to three seasons depending on how much you ride and the needle will wear from vibration. May even be just a piece of crud stuck in the float valve needle and seat causing the motor to flood. Good luck and hope this helps. Keep us posted.

Marty
 
With a wet plug it doesn't sound like the old stuck wide open Throttle problem. But none the less when Bike isn't starting like it should always open and let go of the Throttle a couple of times and listen for the clunk of the Slide hitting bottom.
 
Thanks a lot guys. I will check the woodruff key and the carb again. What is the best way to do the compression test?
The spark is blue/white

I will keep you poster
 
I rekon its flooded. turn the fuel off and kick like mad with the throttle pegged (after checking for the clunk) after a bit it should fire then blubber for a bit and then it will run while firing dirty fuel out the exhaust so make sure its not pointing at the wifes car**************************************** your fuel tap may have a slow leak like mine does. no choke either. just to check, you can pull the plug and push it along in second (MAKE SURE THE PLUG is not on, or the lead sparking as fuel will shoot out under the tank) put a rag there to soak it up. if no fuel in the motor, the sheared key looks good
 
visiteur1948 said:
only 2 % good oil !(bel ray .....)
not 4 % !
Click to expand...

No.

Follow the manual and it says 4%.

The issue is something else.
Wet spark=Flooded.

You can try to loosen the sparkplug, spray a smal amount of Starter in the hole and then try to start it again.
 
Just a thought ..... when you put the slide back in the carb did you make sure the needle went into the main jet ? They can have a habit of missing and pushing the needle up on the spring. Pop the air filter off and check if the needle is through the hole. It will take 5 mins to do.
May not be, but the simplest of things ....
 
I just had 60 minutes tiday trying all the tips here. I turned the gas off and kicked it for a long time. And after a while, lord behold, it came to life, but only for some short bursts. So I gently opened the gas when it started firing on what it had in the cylinder, and there it was. Running.

Now when I let I die after a while I couldn't get it running again. I checked the carburetor again, opened the bottom screw just to see if there was gas in it, and it wasn't. So that means that the freeking float valve is fucking with me, sometimes blocking sometimes flooding.
So I open the carb to clean everything, but i can't get the pin out to loosen the valve.
So, Again, I am on the verge of throwing the whole carburetor as far as I can into the woods and find a new on eBAy :) because of that pin. I tried everything, loosening with oil, a knife, tapping gently with a nail and hammer .....

Good news is that I found the fault, bad news is that I can't solve it. Tomorrow is track day with the dirt bikes, and I will most likely watch from the stands......
 
Try warming the area with a hot air gun. That should expand the alloy enough for you to remove the pin. Best to replace the pin, seat and valve.
Good job finding out what the problem was :-)
 
  • Like
Reactions: wrx
make sure you support the carb body when u use the hammer or the spring loaded punch. ive seen the float tower snap right off on one side. Grouty has a good idea about using heat to expand the metal.
 
I recently had an issue with the vent on my Cawi gas cap. I tore the cap apart and found rust inside that was blocking the vent. My bike was hard to start and the plug was always wet. Turned out the tank would build pressure from the fuel evaporating and fuel would push past the float valve even when the bowl was full. When it was running I imagine the tank could also end up with a vacuum and starve the engine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top