TE/TC Stock pipes cracking at the spring

[Bomber1b]

I was cleaning my bike after my last ride and found a crack in the pipe. The bike only has maybe 20 hours on it. From my research I have found that this is normal....kinda BS if you ask me. I looked around and finally found what seems to be a good replacement pipe, SRT $149 retail. Same gauge steel as other aftermartket pipes 19ga. They say it makes power much like the stock pipe. Has anyone used the SRT? I should also add I ride a 2014 TC250.

I have one coming and I will give a review if it next week. I will be racing the first race of our little series here in Idaho. I should have something to say about it after racing 80+ miles.

 

[hawaii-rider]

Did it crack at the spring mounts (welds) or closer to the head?

HR

 

[robertaccio]

mine didn't have time to crack it was part of my left frame down tube after one ride.........

 

[Bomber1b]

It cracked at the spring mount

 

[swtwtwtw]

mine too, I discovered that the pipe springs are different sizes. The stiffer spring goes on the bottom/left mount. Just FYI. It came with the springs in the wrong position, probably why it cracked.

 

[ptkatoomer]

Interesting.....I just discovered on my '14 KTM 250XC that the mounting tab for the back exhaust pipe mount has broken off (actually it looks more like "popped off" - like it was a poor weld maybe)

 

[Cameron Lemon]

I've read that SRT's have a tendency to crack at the front mount. Only pipe I've not had crack somewhere is the Gnarly.

 

[Bigbill]

Reweld it? Lower heat or intermittent tacs then connect them so the metal doesn't over heat and get brittle.

 

[Big Timmy]

Braze it, don't weld it to repair. Or Tig weld with silicon bronze filler rod. The brackets or mounts are usually much thicker than the sheet metal the pipe is made of. This alone usually leads to the bracket or mount breaking and usually tearing a hole out of the pipe with it.

Good Idea to braze mounts to a larger formed doubler patch plate first of all, made of the same thickness material as the expansion chamber itself. It will then have a larger contact surface area that spreads the mounts load over that larger area and will cause less fatigue to the pipes surface.

Modern Stamped expansion chambers materials are already nearly stretched to the point of enough internal stress and fatigue compared to hand rolled cone pipes.

 

[BDHANSON]

I guess I got the good one. I have 35+ hours on mine and it looks great still thanks to the E-line pipe guard

 

[Bomber1b]

I raced 80 miles today and the SRT pipe works great. I used some fairly bad lines through the sage brush and the pipe didn't take any damage. I'm reall impressed.

 

[troy deck]

never heard of SRT how was the power ?

 

[Bomber1b]

Same as stock. The pipe is just built better then the stock pipe.

 

[Aaron platt]

The SRT is made in China. It's just a clone of the stock pipe. I refuse to buy SRT junk because it is all made in China. I'd rather support some American brands ghat keep their product here in the states.

 

[troy deck]

was that where your brake pads came from?

 

[Aaron platt]

Yep, same company. I call it the china bite. Every once and a while I get bit again.

 

[bikesparky]

Braze it, don't weld it to repair. Or Tig weld with silicon bronze filler rod. The brackets or mounts are usually much thicker than the sheet metal the pipe is made of. This alone usually leads to the bracket or mount breaking and usually tearing a hole out of the pipe with it.

Good Idea to braze mounts to a larger formed doubler patch plate first of all, made of the same thickness material as the expansion chamber itself. It will then have a larger contact surface area that spreads the mounts load over that larger area and will cause less fatigue to the pipes surface.

Modern Stamped expansion chambers materials are already nearly stretched to the point of enough internal stress and fatigue compared to hand rolled cone pipes.

Sir, you are a champion! Totally agree on the silicon Bronze tig brazing. It is very strong and less stress on the thin sheet metal the exhaust is made of.
I use it all the time unless it is structural.

 

[Bomber1b]

SRT along with Kenda, they sponsor the NHHA series. So if a Chinese company is willing to put up some money for the series that I compete in then I will give a little back.

 

[Aaron platt]

I don't want to get too far of topic here, but FMF also sponsors the series. If I need a replacement pipe I think I'd spend the extra money.

 

[Bigbill]

Braze it, don't weld it to repair. Or Tig weld with silicon bronze filler rod. The brackets or mounts are usually much thicker than the sheet metal the pipe is made of. This alone usually leads to the bracket or mount breaking and usually tearing a hole out of the pipe with it.

Good Idea to braze mounts to a larger formed doubler patch plate first of all, made of the same thickness material as the expansion chamber itself. It will then have a larger contact surface area that spreads the mounts load over that larger area and will cause less fatigue to the pipes surface.

Modern Stamped expansion chambers materials are already nearly stretched to the point of enough internal stress and fatigue compared to hand rolled cone pipes.

You can weld it with stainless weld with the TIG with low heat. I like to practice on the same thickness metal first so I can lower the heat till I'm still getting a good weld. I can cut the scrap piece I welded on and do a better inspection on the weld before I weld the actual part. A lot of cracking is they used the heat too high. This makes the material brittle so it cracks. They raise the heat because there in a rush plus thinking there doing a better weld. I see a few structural steel welders do this with the thinner steel. I understand it's tough to work on the thicker steel then get a thinner steel to weld.
That's why I practice on the scrap piece first to adjust to doing it.

There's a silver solder that has a low melting point too. Gas weld it. I think the tensile strength is 20k.