• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

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Sticking throttle or something 2011 TXC 511...help!!! Please

db511

db511

Husqvarna
A Class
I have 4.2 hrs on my bike. Everytime I ride it when I let off the throttle, clutch in or out, the revs won't drop down. It just keeps going with high idle. This is scary because it kills any engine braking that I was counting on. I have a JD Tuner installed and my dealer and I have tried to fix this proble
. The idle was quite high at first, was adjusted and that helped a little. For a while. It does it the most after it gets good and hot. A good 20 or 30 minutes of single track some fast some slow. This is getting a bit scary. If I am quick enough I can let they. If I am quick I can let the.ut h out and hoot the rear brake and it will idle down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you want to make fun and laugh at my lack of knowledge that's okay too. As long as I get some answers. This fuel injection stuff is killing me!! Lol Help ole wise ones:)
 
Verify that the throttle is closing with the bars turned in all directions- open it and release... should hear it "snap!" on the throttle stop.. (don't know if you can see the throttle wheel on the 449/511 for further verification..

BUT

Sounds like you are talking about a hanging idle though- which is caused due to a lean condition. (tuning) Your dealer should have verified at least that it is running "as IT should".

ALSO, it has been reported that the 449/511s have somewhat of a hanging idle effect 'built in" not sure its on purpose- but from the first review by Kelly he noticed a lack of engine braking. WIth that I have read that some noticed the "effect" was decrease when the installed a different mapping plug...

I am sure someone with experience with 449/511s will chime in and have better specific info- if not the read up on 449/511 threads and I am sure you'll find what I am referring to- but am only going by memory...

Good Luck!
 
Thanks guys, I have check the cables and there are no problems there. Just does it at odd times. I am sure with help on here and a little experimentation it will get worked out;-)
 
Any word on an update? Mine did this the other day. I called the dealer and they said they would check it out but It only did it when it was really hot. I hope it is supposed to do it for one whatever reason. My bike has 160 miles on it now. "plated txc511 no hour meter"
 
db511 said:
I have 4.2 hrs on my bike. Everytime I ride it when I let off the throttle, clutch in or out, the revs won't drop down. It just keeps going with high idle. This is scary because it kills any engine braking that I was counting on. I have a JD Tuner installed and my dealer and I have tried to fix this proble
. The idle was quite high at first, was adjusted and that helped a little. For a while. It does it the most after it gets good and hot. A good 20 or 30 minutes of single track some fast some slow. This is getting a bit scary. If I am quick enough I can let they. If I am quick I can let the.ut h out and hoot the rear brake and it will idle down. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you want to make fun and laugh at my lack of knowledge that's okay too. As long as I get some answers. This fuel injection stuff is killing me!! Lol Help ole wise ones:)
Click to expand...


Air Bypass EFI Adjustment
2 ¼ turns out for a TE511 (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
It is the only screw on the throttle body that should, or can, be touched without major drama.
If the screw is too far out it will keep the idle from settling and push you into a corner like having the throttle open a bit.

SAM511
 
Will check it out SAM511, haven't been riding lately. Remodeling kitchen for the one who must be obeyed. Racing this weekend, will know something by Monday.
 
db I'm having the exact same issue. Idle hangs very fast once the bike is warmed up (TXC511 w/ JD Tuner). It doesn't do it every single time but it's inconsistency is dangerous when riding. Also from the same dealer although I'm sure that has nothing to do with it. I emailed JD about the issue and there is also a thread in the EFI section that says to do some adjusting with the air mix screw. I'll be playing around with it again this weekend. I'm surprised others in this forum haven't seen this issue but I will post here if I get any guidance from JD or figure it out myself. Hopefully one of the pro-tuners here can help us. We should get together and ride sometime as well. I assume your hitting Interlake Sunday. Maybe I'll see you there.
 
+1 on getting the big brass screw set right
They are set up lean from the factory and can have a low speed flame out problem which leads people to bump the idle up which exacerbates the hanging idle problem.
When running the JD 6X box it fattens up the bottom end, restoring confidence that it wont flame out, allowing you to lower the idle speed, thereby ameliorating the hanging idle issue...
At least that is my experience.
 
I have the JD tuner and it never cured the flame out. I haven't tried every setting but at least a dozen combinations. Over the weekend i turned that big brass screw out half a turn and only had one flame out! That is was very good compared to the 5 or 6 i get on average. However on the way home after slabbing it for several miles and drag racing my buddy on his DR 650 the idle did hang. I turned it a 1/4 turn back in and hoping the hang goes away and it's enough to keep the flame outs at bay also. I'll check it again on this weekends ride.
 
I haven't touched mine and it hasn't done it again... I wonder if a 10 degree change in weather would have anything to do with it. The one time it did it the temp was about 80...
 
Have roughly the same problem with my 630. If I remove the throttle grip from the bar, it works perfectly and snaps back to neutral. But as soon as it´s pushed back onto the bar, it starts to stick ... especially when the screws on the cable housing are tightened. This is due to the curvature of the bar. Solved the problem by wrapping two layers of gaffer tape onto the bar where the housing clamps on.
 
I had the same exact problem and it was unnerving as hell I did the
"Quick Reset" of Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and EFI Controllers

1. Disconnect the battery for approx 2 minute, then hook it back up again.
2. Turn the ignition key on.
3. Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
4. Turn the ignition key off, and then turn it back on again.
5. Start the bike without touching the throttle.

I have a light kit on mine so I have a master power switch and I just used that for the ignition.

and the

Air Bypass EFI Adjustment
2 ¼ turns out for a TE511 (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
It is the only screw on the throttle body that should, or can, be touched without major drama.
If the screw is too far out it will keep the idle from settling and push you into a corner like having the throttle open a bit.

problem solved the bike ran so much better it was unbelievable. Now it likes to get hot and stall at low revs but, I have been told that is endemic and I just need to get a JD tuner to fatten up the fuel curve.

Thanks Guys!
 
Ive set my jd tuner to 1.5blue/green and 1.5 green ive got a 2011 449. I was told the 449 runs rich at idle and low rpm. One thing which may be of interest is i can now lower the idle speed from standard and its almost idleing at the same speed as a carby bike. Blipping the throttle it picks up cleaner and will pull away iqn second gear without any throttle. Ive not ridden it yet in the dirt, but i can tell you these settinga are making a difference. Ill be on the dirt sunday and will give some feed back.

Agree with sam11 and fmf comments.
 
my te 511 was also running on--air by pass&TPS was re set and still persisted
ended up removing the arm witch is activated by the servo on throtle body
bike runs fine-and slows down properly when throttle is chopped ie like my tc 449 dose
 
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