• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starting Issue…

I only see one mention of auto decompression in the shop manual and that's just that it has it. It obviously doesn't work with the engine off or you'd have to compensate when checking the valve clearance.

Can anyone explain how this works?
 
So, it looks as if the decomp valve / cam is the culprit. “No abnormal resistance exists in this system” according to my consultant. He better have been right, because I had to pay dearly for that edict (someone pass the highland!) :oldman:

So now my more serious concern: Can I run the LA to Vegas DS run after T-Day with this affliction, or should a get my ass down to Santa Ana on the double ? :cripple:
 
neversurfaced;9511 said:
So, it looks as if the decomp valve / cam is the culprit. “No abnormal resistance exists in this system” according to my consultant. He better have been right, because I had to pay dearly for that edict (someone pass the highland!) :oldman:

So now my more serious concern: Can I run the LA to Vegas DS run after T-Day with this affliction, or should a get my ass down to Santa Ana on the double ? :cripple:

Did dear old dad help you? :thumbsup:

I'm no expert but I'd just keep using the decompression lever on the handle bars for the time being. I still think it might be a 'less than perfect' battery considering a car can jump start it.

.
 
Oh yeah, I called him to ask if I could borrow a voltmeter, and that ended with “Well why don’t you just bring your bike over and ‘we’ll’ take a look at it.” :banghead:

Gotta love the guy for lending a hand, but I just had flashbacks of math lessons gone awry from my youth the entire time. As a result I suck at math and still don’t understand magic (oops, I mean electricity…) :eek:

I asked him why the car battery cranked it up like a squirrel on meth, and he told me that the car battery outputted 3x the amperage of the motorcycle battery, so it had more than enough power to overcome the excessive compression. He also tried to explain why the added amperage would eventually burn out the thingy…
 
Seriously, does anyone know how this auto decompression system works? My bike has never spun over if it lands too close to TDC on the compression stroke without using the manual decomp.. So if there is a automatic system that should be working I need to fix it.
 
Theres an angled weight on the end of the exhaust cam that, at cranking speed, just clips the edge of the valve shim to open the valve slightly. Once the engine is running the centrifugal force moves the weight away from the valve shim allowing the valve to close fully.

If there is too much clearance between the weight and the cam or the rocker has excessive lateral play then the weight will miss the shim and the auto decompressor doesn't work. It has been known to have to replace the spring clip on the rocker shaft to keep the rocker arm in place.

If you lean the bike over to the right when starting (or before) sometimes the rocker will move in place and the auto decompressor work.

Having said all that, it is very important to keep the battery in top condition on 450/510 with EFI as it has a lot of work to do, especially in cold conditions. IMHO if the bike starts using the manual decompressor then it's probably not worth the effort of ripping the cam out and trying to fix it.
 
MOTORHEAD;9559 said:
Seriously, does anyone know how this auto decompression system works? My bike has never spun over if it lands too close to TDC on the compression stroke without using the manual decomp.. So if there is a automatic system that should be working I need to fix it.

Exactly what I have found. I use the manual de-comp to get it spinning every time now. While that works great, it would be nice to find out what's up with the auto de-comp.
 
Scott Summers wrote in his DirtBike mag. artical; "Did you know the TXC (carburetor) and the TE (fuel injected) both have kick and electric start and they will start dead engine as fast as a two stroke?"

I'd have to say "NO" to that, because mine has never been that way.

Is that just the TXC's ?
 
MOTORHEAD;9995 said:
Scott Summers wrote in his DirtBike mag. artical; "Did you know the TXC (carburetor) and the TE (fuel injected) both have kick and electric start and they will start dead engine as fast as a two stroke?"

I'd have to say "NO" to that, because mine has never been that way.

Is that just the TXC's ?

Scott is a big guy. Any chance he knows about Cafe Husky?
 
Good stuff "X". I never realized that was what that thing was supposed to do because mine set so far from the rocker. I'll have to open it back up and try to figure out what's wrong with it.

Funny thing about this is that I was sitting talking to Scott one day right after I got my bike and when I went to start it, it wouldn't turn over. I thought the battery was dead, but said that happens sometimes and I should pull in the manual lever and use the kick start to run it past TDC. I did and it worked, so that's the way I've been doing it since then.

At races the rest of the guys are so far gone by the time I get me bike started, it looks like I started from the next row. Maybe this will get me back to getting holeshots again.
 
I ordered a battery tender, a new Valve lifter, valve shim kit and have a new battery. I'm going to try and get all this stuff working 100% and see if I can get this thing off the line with the pack. Then maybe I can start winning some races again.
 
MOTORHEAD;10279 said:
I ordered a battery tender, a new Valve lifter, valve shim kit and have a new battery. I'm going to try and get all this stuff working 100% and see if I can get this thing off the line with the pack. Then maybe I can start winning some races again.

Any final determination/resolution to this? :excuseme:

C
 
MOTORHEAD;10279 said:
I ordered a battery tender, a new Valve lifter, valve shim kit and have a new battery. I'm going to try and get all this stuff working 100% and see if I can get this thing off the line with the pack. Then maybe I can start winning some races again.

M, what does the "valve shim kit" consist of. Is Husky making some kind of camshaft shim like I rigged up?
 
Xriderdown;12342 said:
M, what does the "valve shim kit" consist of. Is Husky making some kind of camshaft shim like I rigged up?

These are just the standard valve shims. What did you rig up?

neversurfaced;12376 said:
I ordered a new decomp lifter from Hall's along with the tech manual CD. Haven't gotten them yet, hopefully soon...

There's nothing about the auto decompression in the manual, that I can find anyway.
 
MOTORHEAD;12381 said:
These are just the standard valve shims. What did you rig up?

That's what I used to take up the slack in the camshaft side-to-side movement. My dealer had a few extra shims with different thicknesses hanging around and gave them to me. I use only one.

I just can't help but to chime in when I hear of TE510 starting issues. It's the only tangible issue I've had with my TE, all be it a very frustrating one.

Good luck!
 
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