• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starting Big Bores

Alan Day

Alan Day

Husqvarna
A Class
Basic as it is, remember that any two stroke has two compression strokes : one up to fire and one down to compress the mixture in the crank case. Pull the plug, find the firing stroke and note the position of the starting lever. Kick hard just before this point. Your bike will not start on the down stroke.
 
While what you saying is true, just getting the piston to TDC, then a small bit past & kicking it hard, usually helps start any motor 2 stroke or 4...
 
Yup just break compression, either stroke an boot it like you mean it. On huskys back not down. Like a mule kick.

Rinse n repeat.
 
juicypips said:
Yup just break compression, either stroke an boot it like you mean it. On huskys back not down. Like a mule kick.

Rinse n repeat.
Click to expand...
correct, but the "back n down" kick maneuver is for the italian section..you dont want to try that one here or your foot comes off the lever
 
Lol didn't think KTM made big bores
I know vintage you've all got bad ignition an rubbish carbs but isn't that half the appeal?
 
juicypips said:
Lol didn't think KTM made big bores
I know vintage you've all got bad ignition an rubbish carbs but isn't that half the appeal?
Click to expand...
not really, alot of the huskies late 70s the the 80s have mikunis vm roundslides which are reliable and easy to tune as any standard carb. i have never really had ignition problems, sometimes they quit working but the old motoplat cdi setups are pretty reliable considering their age. the older huskies had the points setup which were very reliable if you knew how to adjust them.
my late 70s-80s huskies all start pretty easy, not really harder than anything else anyway. 2 kicks at most usually unless i wreck. the last swedish bikes had a nice alum lever that worked great, so i use that on all of them.
 
My '87 auto is easy to start. As Ruwfo says - take it just a little over TDC, lever back to the top and then kick it 'aggressively' ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM. By taking it all the way to the bottom the engine goes through a second full firing cycle which gets the mixture moving through the engine as well as giving the crank momentum to carry on.
A local ex-husky mechanic previously told me that the 'stab' technique is no good - I must use the 'full swing through' style.

It works well for me.
 
OK..here's my2 cents!! My LC 86-500 has been a real test of patience and I now believe I have the bike to the point that it starts well....that is most of the time. It has been at times and continues to be a finicky starter. Knowing that I have a sound motor with good ignition my starting procedure is based upon properly priming that big cylinder. So, It is fuel on, choke on than then 5 fairly slow "priming" kicks. Actually just moving the kicker through the kicking cycle. Then, from slightly pass TDC the motor will usually fire on the 1st or 2nd real hard kick. If it fires then I consider it a GREAT DAY!!
 
PO had pushed up the timing a little compared to factory spec on my 86 400. I'm not sure how many left shoes got tossed with a hole through the sole before I realized I could just delay the timing a little (y'know, like to factory). Yes, the same bonehead who couldn't figure out to set the stator back to factory would sometimes take an after-school ride in street shoes. Ah, growing up in the country, unsupervised more often than not....
 
I use the same method as Four Digit. My scooter fires usually 2nd kick cold. I modify my starting a little bit. If you have a Mikuni, it does not have a choke, it has an enrichment circuit. If you open the throttle, you don't get as much bang for the kick. (it pulls too much air not fuel).. With the throttle closed and holding the kill button, and Mikuni enrichment lever down (you don't want to burn any of that fuel) kick it as hard as you want to 5-6 times. Big bores need a LOT of fuel. With a Bing, flood the snot out of it. Hold kill button down and kick. Flood again, give it a shot. You can also lay the bike on its side till fuel drips out, and try that. And last.. move the kicker to see where it engages. You might be able to remove the kicker and get another spline or two. My husky did not engage until the lever was level with the ground. Jeff
 
My left kick 610 starts easy. It still has the delorto carb all rebuilt and set up. I push the kick start lever till it go's hard that's it at tdc pull the de comp lever go a little over tdc. Then return the kicker start to rest and kick it hard. Bang normally starts 2nd or 3rd kick from cold.
My 2004 te510 which it right side kick I can't get on with so don't bother and use the button
 
my 85 510 is similar but the carb is worn (needle) and I think that helps. it can be a pain when warm if you don't get a good kick first up. usually have to decomp clear to get action.
 
Four Digit said:
OK..here's my2 cents!! My LC 86-500 has been a real test of patience and I now believe I have the bike to the point that it starts well....that is most of the time. It has been at times and continues to be a finicky starter. Knowing that I have a sound motor with good ignition my starting procedure is based upon properly priming that big cylinder. So, It is fuel on, choke on than then 5 fairly slow "priming" kicks. Actually just moving the kicker through the kicking cycle. Then, from slightly pass TDC the motor will usually fire on the 1st or 2nd real hard kick. If it fires then I consider it a GREAT DAY!!
Click to expand...



exactly the same method I use to start my 500's and 430's
1st kick every time


juicypips said:
Lol didn't think KTM made big bores
I know vintage you've all got bad ignition an rubbish carbs but isn't that half the appeal?
Click to expand...

they made 440's 495's 500's and even a 550
my brothers have had them
 
2premo said:
exactly the same method I use to start my 500's and 430's
1st kick every time




they made 440's 495's 500's and even a 550
my brothers have had them
Click to expand...

540DXC LATE 80s early 90s AND A 390 WR IN THE LATE 70s EARLY 80s oh and a 400 AND
420 yea KTM
was big bore nuts back in the day
 
never forget the 380 kato, first ride on one gave me a fabulous "over the bars" trip after I thought I would give it a "squirt"
 
Pmsl ok I'm not clued up on KTM history.. so why have most manufacturers given up on big bore two smokers?
 
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