• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starting a new rebuild

Chef

Chef

Husqvarna
AA Class
What do people do, I have a 76 wr360 that I did the top end on. What oil, what mix? Warm up, torque, re torque etc.
 
Did you get a new air filter foam piece and oil it up and install properly?
I take it you didn't smear the piston and cylinder with the same kind of oil you will end up using for premix.
I would think the cylinder studs would stretch enough so that re torqueing wouldn't be ncessary but probably have tried to re tighten them at least some of the time. Once you start smearing never sieze on the threads the numbers in a manual are way off.
Probably for a new bike you are supposed to start it and let it get warm and shut it off and cool down. Generally you want to avoid high rpm with no load. It wouldn't bother me to buy a quart of sunoco or gulf and use a little more than 3 oz per gallon but if I felt like splurging I would go the honda shop and get their synthetic two stroke oil 16 ounces treats 4 gallons according to the bottle. Stihl has some synthetic oil, more costly than the normal stuff which might be pretty similar. If you really want to splurge you can buy non ethanol gas pre mixed in little quart cans there, ha ha. Do you think why it needed a new top end was more oil or air filter related? Or just time?

See what else you get

Fran
 
Well, I bought the bike in pieces... Bottom end seemed good. Top end was off, needed a hone and there was a new piston and ring with it. I put it together and smeared amsoil interceptor oil on the parts. Synthetic, I use in it in my other husky (02 cr250). In answer to your question, I think the top end was due to oil filter as when I opened up the can, the filter was only about 75% there.
 
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