• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Stalling issue

Mike Rotella

Husqvarna
A Class
Did my first real race this weekend and I stalled the bike ALOT! It doesnt happen much if at all in practice, but I run the same loop all the time. I know its mostly my fault, but is there a way to decrease this a bit? Maybe raising or lowering the idle or changing the gearing? Any suggestions will help, I know its mostly my riding style, I guess I'm just trying to tame the beast!!! Thanks Guys.
 
Mike, raise your idle up. I eliminated 99% of mine but some day the ultimate goal is auto clutch.

I read ur post on starting as well. I practice rode for couple hours just getting use to my bike hot/starting.

#1 make sure your battery has good CCA.

#2 If I start in gear, I have to rock mine first or just go in neutral.

#3 My bike, it's chracteristics,I can't give it any throttle when its hot. Has to fire first, then grab the throttle. If I give it throtttle, will not start.

#4 same thing on dead engine starts. Bike has to be warmed up, First or second gear with clutch in, rocking in gear to release clutch, no throttle, with engine kicker, up on compression, starter button/kicker together. Fires always first time.

You just need to figure out the bike's character.

Hang in there, you'll figure it out.
 
Oh, Fred Andrews told me to go up 2 teeth on rear and run VPR race fuel. Clint @ Halls rode mine and really liked it.
 
Yes, we cut them on a lathe to match rpm range. You can have your ecu flashed on a TXC to the Leo Vince map set.
 
Hmm, I'm guessing you mean the RPM range I use the most? I never go past half throttle and I almost always short shift. Also, the ECU flash, is it even MORE aggressive? Cause I sure dont want that.
 
Are TXC models outfitted with a 50 rear from the get-go? If not, that'd help a lot.. and getting your idle to around 2000rpms helps too with stalling
 
The ecu flash makes the engine run right with less stalling. Also, these bikes are much like the KTM 350's in that they are top end bikes. They are meant to be ridden in the upper rpm's, more like 2 strokes, less like a Honda XR. Might be some of why you are stalling, but I also believe it is map related. There are two maps available for the txc, stock and the Leo Vince map.
 
Leave the map switch, just have the ecu flashed to the Leo Vince mapping. It's a set of maps, not just one map.
 
So how do I get the ECU flash? Also, I have the dual map switch on the bike now, should I remove it?


A dealer can flash it...also called the 'open pipe' map. It is a bit more aggressive, but it also fattens up the bottom end so you can short shift if needed (we did a mudder at Washougal last weekend with no problem). But its much happier when singing up high!! Like Tinken said, it almost like riding a 2-stroke...but a bit smoother.

Flash it, then use the switch to soften if desired.
 
My dealer doesnt know what I'm talking about, no surprise there. Should I keep the bike on stock map 1 instead of 2? Which one do you think would help it run better? Keep in mind, I have a sparky insert from a TE installed in my stock muffler. Could this be screwing things up?
 
Find a dealer that knows what they are talking about or have them call a reputable dealer like Halls or Zipty to educate them properly... My 2 cents worth. I even recommended cafehusky as a learning tool to my local stealership and they did some self educating which helped a bit but ultimately I ended up sending my bike to Halls to get it right.
 
Hmmmnnnn this all sounds interesting.... How do you go about getting your ecu flashed with Leo Vince mapping when there are hardly any dealers in the Uk let alone one that knows even remotely what you're on about!
 
Just about to get a new exhaust on mine and I would imagine some sexy mapping would be the order of the day.... I upped my idle speed which helped greatly with stalling and dead starting.
 
Mine idles at about 2200rpm
I adjusted it with that little thumb screw but I think I read that you shouldn't do it from there. Somebody who knows what will hopefully help
 
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