• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

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125-200cc Squealing Brembos?

firedog55

firedog55

Husqvarna
AA Class
I went for a ride yesterday on my '14 CR125, nothing radical, just some easy single track in rocky SE Missouri. Not even muddy. After about an hour my front brake started squealing like a KTM, mostly on down hills.

The pad looks good with lots left, the rotor is not grooved or warped. Is this permanent with Brembos ?

Has anyone tried Permatex Disc Brake"Anti Squeal"? It's a spray that goes on like paint on the back side of the pads (caliper side). I've used it on car disc brakes and it seems to work.

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my Brembos on my 99 are doing this too
the difference is mine are either all or nothing
plan to replace the pads to see if the problem stops
typical it means they are not wearing and engaging properly
 
firedog55 said:
I went for a ride yesterday on my '14 CR125, nothing radical, just some easy single track in rocky SE Missouri. Not even muddy. After about an hour my front brake started squealing like a KTM, mostly on down hills.
Click to expand...


Nice cr125 firedog.
My 2014 cr125 did the same thing in the first 2 hours, just on downhills. I haven't ridden it since. Maybe I'll try your Permatex stuff.
I hate squealing brakes.
 
Nice looking woods and bike there ...

Probably just dirt or grit on the pads ... Did you remove them and swipe them clean? Its an easy job removing them really and I never used that brake squeal stuff ...My brakes squeal from time to time and I give them time to fix themselves before I start working on them, depending on how bad the sound is.

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There is 1 issue that can happen to your brakes that you might wanna check for .... That caliper must float on the 2 large pins that are on the piece that bolts to the bike. If the caliper sticks on those pins, it will not line up correctly on the brake disc and can squeal maybe and cause wear to the disc to the point it will cut thu the disc over time. This does not sound like your issue, but check this when working with the brake.
 
When mine started doing that I pulled the pads and scuffed them up with some 50 grit emery and they've been fine since.
 
Scuffing them will help but if it was mine I'd let them squeak. There are different kinds of brake material and typically the loud squeaking material stops the best and lasts the longest. Some materials don't stop very well until they get good and heated up, this usually is when they get loud as well.

BTW nice bike, that looks like somewhere around Flat River aka St Joe's State Park.
 
Yep on all that above and these brakes work very well on all my Huskies with not much more than 1 finger tip ... I don't do stoppies but these brakes make it quit possible...

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The outlaw Josey Wales was from MO?
 
Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The bike is due for a little maintenance anyway, oil change etc. I'll give the pads a look as suggested. I thought this was unusual as the conditions were hardly muddy. Most times I've ridden the bike it was covered in mud and water and the brakes were quiet. I still might try the "Anti Squeal" since I have a can just sitting on the work bench.

My riding buddy who is also the service manager at a Chevrolet/Cadillac dealership told me that what makes disc brakes squeal is brake dust/grit that gets between the pad and the caliper pistons, and the "Anti Squeal" fills in the gap so grit can't. Makes sense.

"The outlaw Josey Wales was from MO?" Yes, he was one of our finest citizens.;)

"BTW nice bike, that looks like somewhere around Flat River aka St Joe's State Park." Yes, it was lovely Saturday, 50 degrees, dry but still good traction. I live 15 mins. from the park, so I ride there mostly, or on my buddies 500 acre farm/woods.

Thanks again for the replies.
 
What I liked best was the "Missoura Boat Ride" and the chewing tobacco spitting, Clint was deadly accurate with that. Sondra Locke is a dog.
 
lankydoug said:
Scuffing them will help but if it was mine I'd let them squeak. There are different kinds of brake material and typically the loud squeaking material stops the best and lasts the longest. Some materials don't stop very well until they get good and heated up, this usually is when they get loud as well..
Click to expand...

If you glaze the pads they will require more force to stop, and squeal. Scuffing them will take the glaze off and increase their effectiveness.
 
Zomby woof said:
If you glaze the pads they will require more force to stop, and squeal. Scuffing them will take the glaze off and increase their effectiveness.
Click to expand...
That depends on the kind of material the pads are made of and also which side of the pad is making the noise. Most of the time the squeaking is coming from the steel backing where it contacts the caliper piston. It is similar to a slate turkey call in that it is rubbing back and forth a very small amount metal to metal. Bendix and Raybestos brake companies both claim that the smoother and flatter the rotor and pad is the better the stopping force. They grove and bevel the pad for water distribution and noise prevention also the bevels help the pad during break in but do not help the stopping power. The scuffing is recommended to remove foreign particles from the surface of the pad... like ground in dust. Scuffing does not increase stopping power because it's scuffed but might help because you're removing impregnated dust and dirt and give the pad a second chance to break in without setting up a noise harmonic. The softer brake materials are less likely to make noise and usually work better at lower temperatures but the expensive pads are harder and work better when heated up and are also prone to making noise, wearing the rotor more and last a lot longer. Mechanically the squeaking does not effect the stopping power and I personally could care less if my brakes squeak on a race bike which is why I said what I said about leaving them to squeak.
 
My 300's brakes squilled bad one day. Coming down some mtn singletrack miraculously aftercominv to the very bottom of the ride and after rounding very last switchback my front brakes gave out. I was always lazy about changing fluids out. Since then i have been paranoid as hell and put nothing but the very best most expensive brake fluid i could find and i change out my fluids now every 6 months. I missed going off a cliffside and dying that day by feet. Not saying its your issue but something to consider for sure
 
firecrotch-Thanks for the advice, I'm meticulous about maintenance/changing fluids. I learned that habit years ago when I drove/operated Seagrave 100' aerial ladder trucks for a living.
 
Mine squeal halfway through the day on a dusty ride. Pull em, scuff them up a little with some sandpaper, back to quiet for a little while.
 
squealing is almost always pad vibration. that is why the spray on tack you apply to back of pads works on cars. you are basically gluing it so it doesnt vibrate. what the dealer guy said about the permatex filling in and stopping the grit is not really the right idea, but hes right that the permatex works. i have torn down many many brakes and not really ever noticed dirt behind the pads on pavement operated vehicles
sometimes when machining rotors they squeal and there are damping pads that clamp on to stop the vibes.
 
Mine will do it now and again. Usually more noticable on slower technical trails. I've never scuffed them, but always tell myself it is about time, then quickly forget. My noise is closer to moan...kinda like Flipper in heat.
 
What lankydoug and justintendo said about the pad to piston clearance is correct. After I read the instructions on the can completely it said the same thing. So far so good, no squeal on the downhills.:)
 
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